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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT  3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.:'.  XK'TiO 

(716)  872-4503 


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<>      .'lif 


<lf. 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Noten/Notes  techniques  et  bibliocraphiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  off  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  mey  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  signifficantly  change 
tne  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


./ 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6tA  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  mellleur  exemplaire 
qu'll  lui  a  At*  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  d6tails 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reprodul'ie,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normaie  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


|~~|   Coloured  pages/ 


n 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  dnmaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  peilicuites 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pages  dicolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piquies 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quaiit6  in6gale  de  i'imprebsion 

includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppidmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  dnmaged/ 

|~~|  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

ryt  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~y]  Showthrough/ 

j      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refiimed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obftcurcies  par  un  feuiiiet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6tA  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fa9on  A 
obtenir  la  meiileure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessojs. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

j/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


tails 
du 

xJifier 
une 
nage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Harold  Campbell  Vaughan  Memorial  Library 
Acadia  University 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  Y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g^ndrositi  de: 

Harold  Campbell  Vaughan  Memorial  Library 
Acadia  University 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6X6  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  Ie  seccnd 
plat,  selon  Ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  Ie 
cas:  Ie  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  Ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film^s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


rrata 
o 


)elure, 


H 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

-THE- 


\p 


-■*  'TKi  .^,  a  a,-  *w  ^  w  'i 


IS  THE 


Great  Pleasure  Route, 


-OFFKIMNfJ   A— 


MOST  ATTEAGTIl''E  SILEGTION 


Via   NiA(iAitA   Fai.i.s,    Kiver  St.  LAW'tEXCE  with  Thousand  Islands  and. 
Kaimds,  Monthkai,,  QiEHKc.  River  SAcrENAY,  (jUlf  Pouts.  Jj(»weh 
Phuvim'ks,  Lake  C'hampi.ai.v,  and  Lake  Geohoe,  Saratoga 
the  White  ^lorNTAiss,  «tc.,  &v. 

THE  l|ICHELlEU7\r(D  0NTy\[|10  N/V,  GO'S  STEAMERS 

Comprise  tin'  ori>;iiial  Hoyal  Mail  and  Richelieu  Lines,  with  the  addition  of 
scvciai  new  steiiiinTs.  tlms  forming  two  first-class  Lines  of  Steamers,  which 
for  spccii.  siifctv  and  comfort,  cannot  be  surpassed.  They  are  tlie  only  lines 
n(>\i  otTcrin^,'  Tourists  an  opportunity  to  view  the  MA(LVIF1CENT  SCENERY 
of  tile  TIIOL'SANI)  ISLANDS  and  RAPIDS  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE, 
also  t lie  far  tamed  KIVEK  SAvJUENAY.  This  route  possesses  peculiar  ad- 
vantages over  any  other  hetween  Niagara  Falls  and  Quebec,  and  the  Tickets 
are  also  \aliil  l)y  Kaii  or  Steamer. 

Piilliiian  Palace  Sleepinj;  Cars  will  be  attached  to  the  evenin{<  train  from 
Suspension  lirid^e.  and  will  nm  tln'oufrh  to  Kingston  Wharf,  and  passengers 
will  remain  in  tlie  viiv  until  tlie  boat  arrives.  No  extra  charge  for  meals  be- 
tween Toronto  and  ^Montreal. 

The  improved  eondition  of  the  (irand  Trunk  Railway,  including  its  e(iuip- 
meiU  of  tlie  new  Passt  iiger  Cars,  new  Locomotives.  Steel  Tracks,  itc.  now 
l)riiigiiig  it  prominently  before  the  public  as  a  first-class  Line,  and  preferable 
to  the  majority  of  lines  between  the  East  and  West.  The  (irand  Trund  Rail- 
way, via  Corliam  and  (ileii  House,  is  the  only  route  1)3'  which  parties  can 
ascend  the  I'ar-famed  .Mount  Wasliington  by  carriage  road,  by  far  the  best 
approach  to  this  attractive  mountain  range. 

Tickets  and  infoiniation  may  be  obtained  at  the  principal  Ticket  (Offices. 
Also  of  tlu'  Agents  of  the  Crand  Trunk  Railway  Company,  from  whom  Ex- 
oiu'sion  and  Tourists  Routes  and  Riites  of  fare  can  be  obtained. 

J.  B.  LaHKLL^.,  Manager.        A.  :\llLLOY,  Trafiic  Manager.  R.  &  O.  N.  Co. 

.loSKPH  lllCKSON.  (Jeneral  Manager.  Montreal. 
W.  W  VlNWKKillT,  Assisttuil  Manager.  Montreal. 
L,  J.  SKAPJJEANT.  Traffic  Manager  Montreal, 
.1.  STEPHENSON.  (Jeneral  Pas.senger  Agent,  Montreal. 


■THE- 


.? 


-or  THE— 


St.  Lawrence  River 


AND   ITS    ENVIRONS, 


J\    Guide    for    ll^c   Yo'J'^ist   arid   ^ra^cl 


er. 


Llaking  a  R^uni  Trip  frcir.  Ile-Lv  York,  via  11.  Y.  YI.  S.  anl   B. 

R.  R.,  ani  Ontari:  anl  V/eatern  R.  R.,   to  Utioa,  Syracuse, 

Rochester,   Buifal:  ar.l  Niagara  Falls,  Through  Lake 

Cntario,  Thousand  Islands  a:il  Rapils  of  the  St. 

Laivrer.oe  Riv-er  to  Montreal,  Que'ceo,  Sagu- 

enay   River.    Lake    Champlain,    Lake 

George,   Saratoga,   Albany  New 

Y:rk  anl  Boston. 


Copyrighted    1  884. 


K.  K.  H^HHAOH,  Pui3r.i 


S II B  R . 


KOCHESTEH.  N.  Y.. 

I'l.ST-KXPRErJs   l>ni.VTIXO   COMPANY,    l-,>  To   IS   MILL  .STREET, 

18>4. 


(( 


btj:f:f'^^x.o,  dst-  it. 


^niLuiccm  anil  i^iir^cpKan  J^laii. 


Vm  CLARENDON, 


I 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 
(Jpcr)  jrorr)  Jur)c  i5ll).   lo  Sept.   loli). 
/~-/^0-  C*^AS.  LOSEKAM,   Prop. 


c'.-)/  "' 


.c»> 


^^ 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  presenting  this  work,  '•  The  l>hat  Boy's  Historic  De- 
hneations,"  with  map,  giving  a  birdseye  view  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  from  Kingston  to  Montreal,  the 
only  correct  maj)  ever  issued  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  to 
the  public,  being  a  round  trip  from  New  York  to  Buffalo, 
Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  Kingston,  Alexandria  Bay,  Thou- 
sand Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal, 
Quebec,  Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George,  Saratoga, 
Albany.  New  York  and  Boston,  it  may  not  be  amiss 
to  state  the  fact  which  prompted  its  issue.  Financial  or 
personal  ends  are  always  the  paramount  object  to  be  at- 
tained by  an  individual  who  i)uts  forth  anything  in  this 
world.  I  therefore  plead  guilty  to  the  above  charge,  and 
for  so  doing,  propose  to  give  to  the  tourist  or  traveler  down 
the  majestic  St.  Lawrence  a  faithful  description  of  every 
point  of  interest  that  meets  the  eye  of  the  beholder. 

Having  held  the  ])osition  for  the  past  ten  years  of  "  The 
Guide  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  and  in  that  capacity  made  the 
trip  a  pleasant  one  for  everybody  without  regard  to  age, 
weight,  sex,  color,  or  previous  condition  of  servitude.  J  feel 
capable  of  compiling  a  book  which  does  not  contain  any 
pictorial  illustrations  of  tiie  scenic  beauty  connected  with 
the  trip,  feeling  confident  that  a  plain  unvarnished  descrip- 
tion of  all  the  various  points  of  interest  would  be  sufficient. 
'Hie  tourist  can  thus  feast  the  eye  on  a  thousand  pictures 
that  a  volume  ten  times  this  size  could  not  contain,  for  no 
matter  how  often  you  oi)en  the  eyes  during  the  day,  it  will 
fall   ui)on   some  delightful  scene,  where  the  (Jod  of  nature 

J  3  ^-^^ 


has  smiled  upon,  within  an  hour.  Neither  have  I  given  a 
highly  colored  description  of  the  Rapids  ;  they  have  been 
viewed  and  described  by  thousands,  and  the  effect  produced 
is  as  varied  in  character  as  the  individual  writers  differed  in 
tenii)erament  and  looks. 

Trusting  that  this  volume  will  meet  with  as  cheerful  a 
greeting  by  the  public  as  it  has  always  accorded  my  efforts 
to  please,  and  if  its  perusal  causes  the  weary  or  lonesome 
traveler  one  hour  of  mirth  or  pleasure,  its  mission  will  have 
been  accomplished. 

Respectfully  Yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAGE  ''  Phat  Boy." 

Guide  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 


ALTMAN  6l  CO., 


MANUFACTURERS   OF 


MEN'S,  BOYS'  AND  YOUTHS' 

CLOTHING. 

68,  70  &  72  SENECA  STREET, 

N.  B.— Our  New  Departure,  a  Retail  Department. 
A  sm2;le  suit  sold  at  wholesale  prices. 


(> 


t 

4 


REFERENCES  FOR  THIS  WORK. 

We  have  a  number  of  references  as  to  the  worth  of  this 
little  volume.  Space  and  time  forbid  a  mention  of  them 
all;  some  of  the  most  j^jminent  will  suffice. 

1.  At  Alexandria  Bay  last  season,  a  lady  had  the  misfortune 
to  sprain  her  ankle,  (no  matter  how ;  but  we  will  say,  least 
some  one  may  be  led  astray  as  to  the  real  cause,  that  it  was 
not  done  falling  or  stumbling  over  the  editor.)  We  very 
kindly  gave  her  a  copy  of  the  -  Phat  boy's"  Delineations  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  she  was  able  to  walk  in  ten 
hours  after  the  accident,  apparently  as  well  as  ever. 

2.  This  volume  will  not  bring  home  a  stray  cow;  but  it 
will  do  the  next  best  thing  :  milk  them  in  the  pasture,  thus 
saving  the  wear  and  tear  incident  to  their  coming  home. 

3.  Two  strangers  in  town  desired  to  see  the  sights ;  they 
bought  a  copy  and  have  been  happy  ever  since. 

4.  A  lady  who  had  one  copy  (  by  the  way.  she  was  mar- 
ried,) wrote  for  the  second;  it  was  sent  to  her;  but  mean- 
while she  had  changed  her  residence  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum. 
Now  here  is  a  chance  for  married  men  who  wish  to  become 
single  for  25  cents.     Send  for  a  copy. 

5.  A  very  restless,  nervous  man  bought  a  copy ;  read  to 
page  20,  went  to  sleep  quietly  for  ten  hours.  First  good 
rest  in  four  years. 

6.  It  is  good  for  maiden  ladies ;  has  been  known  to  cure 
headache,  toothache,  sprains,  bruises,  ingrowing  nails,  and 
it  matters  not. 

7.  Eli  Perkins  will  read  a  copy  of  this  work,  August  25th, 
1884,  and  from  that  day  until  death  will  speak  the  truth. 


HISTORIC  DELINEATIO: 


— OF — 


THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


THE   St.   Lawrence    River,  with   its  Thousand   Islands 
and  rapids,  is  day  by  day  attracting  more  and  more 
attention  among  tourists.     There  is  so  much  that  is  grand 
weird  sublime  and  exhilerating  in  the  scenery  and  balmy 
atmosphere  of  the  majestic  river,  as  it    passes  n.  its  on- 
ward  flow  from  the  lake  to  the  gulf,  that  we  need  no   for 
a  moment  wonder  why  it  is  that  there  is  a  great  annual  m- 
crease  in  the  number  of  those  intelligent  people,  who,  from 
East  West  and  South,  repair  to  its  placid  waters  m  summer 
to  recuperate  their  wasted  energies  and  enjoy  that  luxurat- 
ino  season  known  to  every  American  as  "  vacation." 

A  vacation  on  the   St.  Lawrence,  means   a    sojourn    at 
some   pretentous    or  lowly    cotrage,  or   at   some    hotel  of 
either  class  for  a  few  days,  or  for  one,  two  or  more  vveeks, 
as  the  time,  finances  and  inclination  of  the  individual  may 
dictate ;  or  it  may,  as  in  hundreds  of  instances  it  does  only 
include  a  voyage  of  rapid  transit  from  New  York    o  Utica, 
Oswego,  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto  or  Kingston  to  Alexandria 
Bay  o^r  Montreal  then  return  home.     There  are  several  dif- 
ferent popular  starting  places  to  reach  the  river  ;  it  is  pre- 
sumed vou  will  take  the  most  convenient  one,  and  we  will 
consider  ourselves  pleased  with  the  selection. 


i 


Route  A. 


:\   Islands 
and  more 
:  is  grand, 
nd  balmy 
in  its  on- 
ed  not  for 
annual  in- 
who,  from 
in  summer 
It  luxurat- 
>n. 

sOJourn    at 
e    hotel  of 
lore  weeks, 
vidual  may 
does,  only 
k  to  Utica, 
Alexandria 
several  dif- 
r ;  it  is  pre- 
and  we  will 


THE   WEST   SHORE   ROUTE. 


THE  TOURIST  ROUTP:  OF  THE  NORTTI. 

While  nrriy  suppose  that  both  sides  of  tlv^  ^ludson  River 

present   eciual   attraction— and   't  would  hv  hard  to  deride 

which  is  the  most  beautiful— it  is  a  curious  fact  that  all,  or 

nearly  all,  the  noted   summer  resorts  for  which  the  counlrv 

adjacent  is  famous  are  located  on  its  western  bank.     Thus, 

starting   from   New  York   and  following  up  the  West  Shore 

Route,   we   find   the   Palisades,    Tappan,    Rockland    Lake, 

Stony     Point,    Cranston's,     West    Point,  Cornwall,   Lakes 

Mohonk  and    Minnewaska,  the  Catskills,  Saratoga,   Mount 

McGregor,  and  the   Adirondacks  (in  which   the  great  river 

rises),  all  on  the  same  side,  and  all  easily  accessil)le  by  the 

New  York,  West  Shore  and   Buffalo  Railway.     In  addition 

to   these,   the   magnificent   cars   of  this   route   convey   the 

traveler   to  Lake   George,  Lake   Champlain  and   Montreal, 

on    the    north;     Sharon    Springs,    Cooperstown,    Richfield 

Springs,  Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo  ?nd  Chatauqua  Lake,  and 

make  close  connections  for  all  the   White   Mountain  and 

Eastern   resorts,  for   the  Thousand   Islands,  Watkin's  Glen 

and  the  Lake  region  of  Central  New  York.     It  is   thus  em 


8 

phatically  the  tourists  route  of  the  north,  and,  reahzing  this 
fact  its  projectors  and  managers  have  done  everything  ni 
their  power  to  render  it  attractive  to  this  constantly  increas- 
ing and  most  fastidious  class  of  travelers. 

While  traversinsT  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  a  State 
noted  for  its  scenery,  this  railway   is  the  most  complete   m 
all  details   of  construction   and   equipment   of  any   in  this 
country.     It  is  a  double  track,  steel  rail  line,  with  an  un- 
usually wide  space  between   tracks,  running  north  from  Jer- 
sey City  along  the  west  shore  of  the  Hudson  to  Albany,  and 
thence  through  the  fertile  Valley  of  the  Mohawk  and  across 
Central    New    York,    touching    at     Utica,    Syracuse    and 
Rochester,  to  Buffalo   and  Niagara  Falls.     Its  grades  are 
easv,  its  curves  are  light,  its  steel  rails  are  among  the  heavi- 
est known  in  railway  construction,  and  its  road-bed  will  be 
crowned  with  a  deep  ballasting  of  stone. 

Owing  to  this  excellent  road-bed  and  the  great  strength 
of  its  iron  bridges  this  comi^any  has  been  able  to  build  ex- 
ceptionally heavy  locomotives  for  its  various  classes  of  traffic 
The  passenger  engines  l)urn  anthracite  coal,  and  are  de- 
si<.ned  to  haul  trains  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  coaches  at  a  high 
ra'te  of  sj^eed.  They  are  provided  with  special  arrange- 
ments in  the  fire  and  smoke  boxes  and  smoke  stacks  to 
consume  all  gases,  and  to  prevent  the  escape  of  smoke  or 
cinders. 
LOCOMOTIVES,  CARS   AND    STATION    HOUSES. 

The  entire  passenger  equipment  of  the  road  was  especi- 
ally designed  and  built  by  the  Pullman  Palace  Car  Com- 
pany, and  is  the  most  complete  in  all  details  pertaining  to 
elegance  of  finish,  comfort   and  safety  in  the  world.     From 


:ing  this 
thing  in 
increas- 

•  a  State 
plete  in 
r   in  this 
1  an  un- 
rom  Jer- 
any,  and 
1(1  across 
use    and 
ades  are 
[le  heavi- 
l  will  be 

strength 

build  ex- 

of  traffic. 

d  are  de- 

at  a  high 

arrange- 

stacks  to 

smoke  or 


i 


TOUSES.       j 

as  especi- 
Car  Com- 
taining  to 
Id.     From 


the  palatial  buffet  cars,  with  interiors  finished  in  variegated 
hard-woods  and  furnished  with  plate-glass  mirrors,  luxurious 
arm-chairs,  soft  carpets  and  rich  drapery,  to  the  smoking 
cars,  finished  with  figured  oak  and  provided  with  revolving 
chairs,  upholstered  in  leather,  all  are  the  most  perfect  speci- 
mens of  the  car-builder's  art  extant.  The  exterior  of  the 
cars  making  up  West  Shore  passenger  trains  is  painted  in  a 
rich  dark  olive  and  gold,  which  produces  a  most  pleasing 
effect. 

The  station  houses  erected  along  the  entire  route  from 
New  York  to  Buffalo  are  architectural  gems,  harmonious  in 
color  and  design  with  the  beautfful  and  picturescpie  scenery 
through  which  the  road  passes.  Those  at  the  New  York 
terminus,  at  Kingston,  Albany,  Utica,  Syracuse  and  Buffalo 
will,  when  finished,  surpass  in  com|)leteness  and  artistic  de- 
sign any  series  of  railway  stations  ever  erected  by  a  single 
company. 

THE  NEW  YORK  STATION. 

The  New  York  terminus  of  this  great  railway  was  pro 
jected  upon  a  scale  of  vastness  and  perfection  of  detail  com- 
mensurate with  the  rest  of  the  magnificent  scheme.  It  is  at 
Weehawken,  opposite  the  heart  of  the  great  city,  ami  close 
beneath  the  height  on  which  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  before 
the  pistol  of  Aaron  Burr.  It  extends  for  more  than  a  mile 
along  the  river  front,  and,  with  its  numerous  docks  and 
piers,  presents  nearly  six  miles  of  working  si)ace  in  which 
vessels  of  every  description  may  receive  freight.  From  here 
commodious  and  elegantly  appointed  ferry-boats  run  to  the 
handsome  up-town  passenger  station  at  the  foot  of  I'orty- 
secoi.d   Street.     As   the   express   trains  of  the  West  Shore 


mm 


lO 


Route  are  also  despatched  from  the  depot  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad  in   Jersey  City,  they  are  accessible  from  the 
foot  of  Desbrosses  or  Cortlandt  Streets  in  New  York,  and 
from  the  foot  of  Fulton  Street,  Brooklyn.     The  passenger 
from  New  York  has  thus  an  option  of  starting  from  any  one 
of  half  a  dozen  points,  a  great  convenience  when  one  con- 
siders the  peculiar  position  and  length  of  the  city.     Pas- 
sengers are  cautioned  to  consult  official  time-tables  m  the 
Company's  publications,  or  in  the  leading  newspapers,  with 
the  view  of  ascertaining  just  what  trains  leave  from  and  ar- 
rive at  the  Jersey  City  station.     All  trains  leave  from  and 
arrive  at  the  up-town   station  foot  of  West  Forty-second 
v^treet  while  onlv  the  through  express  trains  have  connec- 
tions to   and  from  both  the  Weehawken  and  Jersey  City 

stations. 

In  the  subsequent  pages  one  may  obtain  partial  ghmpses 
of  some  of  the  innumerable  delightful  places  to  which  this 
highway  for  business  and  pleasure  travel  will  guide  him,  and 
a  few  hints  of  the  many  pleasures  in  store  for  his  summer 
holiday. 

BETWEEN    NEW    YORIC    AND  THE    THOUSAND 

ISLANDS. 

VIA.  N.  Y.,  ONTARIO  &  WESTERN  RY. 

This  new  line  between  New  York  and  Alexandria  Bay 
offer  the  attractions  of  a  cool,  delightful  morning  sail,  from 
Oswego  across  the  blue  waters  of  Lake  Ontario  to  Kingston, 
and  from  there  to  Alexandria  Bay,  arriving  at  the  latter 

point  at  2  p.  m. 

The  new  palace  steamer  "  Ontario,"  leaves  Oswego  at 
8:15  a.  m.,  on  arrival  of  the  Night  Express,  leaving  New 
York,  Cortlandt  and  Desbrosses  Street  Ferries  at  6:50  p.  m., 


II 


s  Pennsyl- 
i  from  the 
Vork,  and 
passenger 
m  any  one 
1  one  con- 
:ity.     Pas- 
bles  in  the 
apers,  with 
Dm  and  ar- 
i  from  and 
Drty-second 
,ve  connec- 
ersey  City 

al  glimpses 
»  which  this 
ie  him,  and 
his  summer 

lOUSAND 

andria  Bay 
ig  sail  from 
o  Kingston, 
t  the  latter 

Oswego  at 
eaving  New 
t  6:50  p.  m., 


and  foot  of  West  Forty-second   Street  at   7:00  p.  m.     The 
train  is  equipped  with  Pullman  Buffet  Palace  Sleepers,  the 
finest  ever  put  in  the  public  service.     The  route  from  New 
York   is  one  of  great   beauty  and  interest.     Leaving  New 
Vork,  the  line  runs  along  the  west  shore  of  the  Hudson, 
through  the  cool  shadows  of  the  Highlands,  along  the  base 
of  "  Dunderberg "  and  ''  Storm  King,"  traversing   all  the 
historic    and    picturesque    points    along    that  world- famed 
stream,   with   its   constant   surprises    of  bold    promontory, 
broad,  lake-like   expanse,  beetling    cliff  and  gently  sloping 
plain,  past   views   unequaled   by  any  river  scenery  in    the 
world,  through   a  country  whose   eventful  memories  are  in- 
terwoven  with  the  earliest  history  of  our  land,  "reaching 
far  back  to  the  time  when  truth  vanished  into  tradition  "  ; 
under  the  famous  military  school  at  West  Point,  and  reach- 
ing Cornwall,  the   line,  bending  to    the  west,   crosses  the 
counties  of  Orange,  Sullivan,  Delaware,  Otsego,  Chenango, 
Madison,  Oneida  and   Oswego,  rising  at  points  to  an  eleva- 
tion of  over  2,000  feet  above   the  sea ;   crossing  the   beau- 
tiful and   fertile  valleys  of  the  Delaware,  Susquehanna  and 
Chenango   Rivers,  and  arriving  in  Oswego  at   7:50  a.  m., 
have  breakfast  on  the  steamer  and  ready  to  enjoy  a  beauti- 
ful ride  across  the  sparkling  waters  of  Lake  Ontario,  arriv- 
ing in   Kingston  at   12:30   p.  m.,  and   Alexandria  Bay  at 
2  p.  m. 

The  night  trains  run  every  day,  including  Sunday,  and 
the  steamer  Ontario  runs  every  day  from  Oswego,  includ- 
ing Sunday.  Returning,  steamer  leaves  Alexandria  Bay 
at  3:30  p.  m.,  Clayton  4:30  p.  m.,  Kingston  5:15  p.  m.,  ar- 
riving in  Oswego  at  10:00  p.m.  Day  train  leaves  New 
York  at  9:15  a.  m.,  arrives  in  Oswego  10:30  p.  m. 


it 


'I 


12 

At  Alexandria  Bay,  connection  is  made  with  the  steamers 
of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  Royal 
Mail  Line,  leaving  every  morning  at  7:30  a.  m.,  except 
Monday,  for  Montreal,  and  all  landings  on  St.  Lawrence 
River.  No  change  of  cars  between  New  York  and 
Oswego. 

Excursion  Rates  from  New  York,  Brooklyn,  Jersey  City, 
$15.00.  Single  rates,  $8  20.  From  Albany,  $10.00  and 
85.40.  From  Utica,  $6.50  and  3.50.  Oneida  or  Oneida 
Castle.  -^5.25  and  3.25.  From  Syracuse,  $5.25  and  $3.75. 
Buffalo  $10.00  and  $6.00. 

A   CHAPTER   ON   THE   FALLS. 

They  are  talking  of  making  Niagara  Falls  free  !  That 
is  splendid.  The  only  thing  free  now  is  air,  and  you  must 
be  careful  where  you  breathe  it  at  that — they  are  trying  to 
get  a  corner  on  the  commodity.  Every  work  written,  or 
guide  issued,  has  been  under  the  patronage  of  the  schemes, 
devices,  etc.,  at  the  Falls,  and  have  always  lauded  the 
proprietors  of  them  to  the  skies.  (T  don't  know  as  T  ought 
to  be  sorry  for  that,  it  is  probably  the  only  source  left  open 
that  could  secure  them  a  position  above.)  I  shall  take  the 
opposite  course  and  tell  you  what  not  to  see  or  the  mistakes 
of  many  who  have  visited  the  Falls,  that  like  square  deal- 
ing. I  St. — Pay  no  attention  or  money  to  hackmen,  no 
matter  in  what  guise  they  appear.  I  have  known  them  to 
come  in  five  kinds  of  shapes,  but  it  was  the  same  old  hack- 
man,  whether  he  solicited  you  from  his  hack  at  the  depot, 
or  took  an  off-hour  and  worked  the  porch  or  parlor  of  the 
hotel,  or  became  a  steerer  for  some  of  the  curiosity  shops, 
or  assume  the  guise  of  a  guide,  or  basking  in  the  sunshine 


-  steamers 
iny  Royal 
n.,  except 
Lawrence 
Vork    and 

ersey  City, 
lo.oo  and 
or  Oneida 

and  $3.75- 


S 

ee  !  That 
I  you  must 
I  trying  to 
written,  or 
le  schemes, 
lauded  the 

as  T  ought 
:e  left  open 
all  take  the 
he  mistakes 
quare  deal- 
ackmen,  no 
vn  them  to 
ne  old  hack- 

the  depot, 
)arlor  of  the 
osity  shops, 
he  sunshine 


13 

or  shade  as  a  philanthropist,  a  bunco  steerer,  or  what  not, 
take  off  his  mask  and  he  is  still  the  same  old  hackman. 
2d. — Close  the  eye  against  the  pamphlet  entitled  "  Don't 
walk  yourself  tired  and  then  see  notliing.  take  a  hack,"  for 
what  they  want  is  a  "  hack"  at  your  cash.  I  say,  take  my 
book  and  read  "How  to  see  Niagara  Falls  for  50  cents." 
Not  too  much  walk  in  that,  nor  too  much  talk,  but  just 
walk  and  talk  enough.  They  have  no  love  for  me  at  the 
Falls,  the  fate  of  Capt.  Webb,  or  worse,  await.j  me  there  by 
those  unscrupulous  men  I  liave  exi)osed,  so  they  say.  I 
have  no  fears,  if  the  truth  cuts  let  it  cut.  There  were  two 
honest  men  in  the  old  city  of  Sodom,  so  there  is  in  Niagara, 
and  one  keeps  a  hotel,  and  I  expect  no  favor,  remuneration 
or  reward  for  speaking  his  name  because  I  am  too  truthful 
to  omit  it,  therefore  will  say  he  keeps  the  Hotel  Kaltei  bach. 
It  took  me  three  months  to  find  the  other  one,  but  he  is 
there,  unless  removed  for  cause  the  same  as  1  would  be  if 
I  return.  Look  them  up,  they  are  the  curiosities  of  the 
place  in  my  opinion.  No  honest  person  fears  exposure, 
but  when  one  ventilates  fraud,  schemes,  devices  and  thievery 
it  is  expected  that  those  interested  will  squeal.  Some  people 
at  the  Falls  know  by  this  time  that  I  am  too  heavy  to  be 
treading  around  on  their  corns. 

HOW    TO    SEE    NIAGARA    FALLS    FOR 

FIFTY   CENTS. 

FOR  publishing  the  truths  on  the  preceding  pages  (12  cV 
i3)the  ''  Phat  Boy  "  has  been  Boycotted  by  the  hotels  at 
Niagara  Falls,  and  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Co.,  and  Grand  Trunk   Railroad  are  threatened,   if  I   am 


if 


14 


r 


ii 


'  t 


"I 


t 


placed  there  this  season  to  labor  in  their  interest.  Hoping 
this  will  meet  the  eye  of  those  who  come  up  from  the  South 
the  coming  season,  that  when  they  do  not  find  me  as  they 
expected,  they  may  know  the  cause. 

I  will  not  waste  space  with  an  apology,  but  proceed  to 
inform  everybody  how  they  can  see  Niagara  Falls  for  Fifty 
Cents — all  the  grand  sights,  without  falling  into  the  many 
schemes,  skins  and  catches  for  the  unwary.  Stop  at  Buffalo 
at  the  New  Genesee,  or  the  Tifi't  House,  and  after  breakfast 
take  the  train  for  Niagara  Falls.  Arriving  at  the  depot,, 
pass  out  the  front  door,  and  when  you  place  your  foot  upon 
the  sidewalk,  you  must  not  be  only  deaf  but  dumb,  and 
pay  no  attention  to  anyone,  but  turn  to  the  right  and  pro- 
ceed down  the  street,  (passing  my  friend  Perry  Hirsches',  if  you 
want  anything  call,)  until  you  come  to  the  entrance  to  the 
Prospect  Park ;  don't  go  in,  but  turn  to  the  right  and  the 
walk  will  lead  you  to  the  new  Suspension  Bridge.  Pay  your 
fare  over  (which  is  twenty-five  cents),  enjoy  all  the  sights  of 
the  Falls  and  river  while  crossing,  and  when  you  arrive  on 
the  Canada  side  you  are  still  deaf  and  dumb,  remember. 
Proceed  down  the  roadway  on  the  left  to  the  bed  of  the 
river ;  there  you  take  the  ferry  boat,  by  paying  twenty-five 
cents  more,  which  lands  you  on  the  American  shore.  Take 
in  all  the  sights  under  the  falls ;  do  not  be  roped  into  put- 
ting on  any  rubber  clothing,  etc.,  but  drink  in  all  the  beau- 
ties of  nature  until  satisfied.  You  can  take  the  inclined 
railroad  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  and  you  are  in  Prospect 
Park.  Look  this  delightful  spot  all  over,  and  when  it  is 
time,  pass  out  of  the  center  gate  and  proceed  to  the  depot, 
where  the  train  in  waiti.^g  will  take  you  back  to  Buftalo  in 
time  for  dinner. 


\ 


Hoping 

the  South 

lie  as  they 

proceed  to 
is  for  Fifty 
)  the  many 
.  at  Buffalo 
:r  breakfast 
the  depoty 
r  foot  upon 

dumb,  and 
;ht  and  pro- 
iches',ifyou 
ranee  to  the 
o;ht  and  the 
.     Pay  your 
the  sights  of 
)u  arrive  on 
.,  remember, 
i  bed  of  the 
y  twenty-five 
liore.     Take 
led  into  put- 
all  the  beau- 
the  inclined 

in  Prospect 
nd  when  it  is 
to  the  depot, 
to  Buffalo  in 


I 


15 

As  many  of  the  tourists  leave  Niagara  Falls  in  the  morn- 
ing at  ten  o'clock  by  rail  to  Lewiston,  and  connect  with  tlie 
boat  for  Toronto,  I  will  mention  the  places  and  points. 

LEWISTON. 

This  village  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the 
Lower  Niagara,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 
It  lies  three  miles  below  the  Devil's  Hole,  and  seven  miles 
below  the  Falls.  Lewiston  is  a  pleasant,  well  built  village, 
but  its  commercial  prosi)ects  have  been  very  much  injured 
by  the  construction  of  the  Erie  and  Welland  Canals. 

QUEENSTON 

is  a  small  village  situated  nearly  o])])osite  to  Lewiston,  and 
contains  about  350  inhabitants.  It  is  associated  in  history 
with  the  gallant  defence  made  by  the  British  on  the  adjac- 
ent heights  in  the  war  of  181 2.  The  villaf^e  is  i)leasantly 
situated,  but  has  suffered  from  the  same  causes  that  have 
retarded  the  growth  of  Lewiston.  The  river  here  becomes 
more  tranquil,  the  shores  less  broken  and  wild,  and  the 
change  in  the  scenery  affords  a  pleasing  transition  from  the 
sublime  to  the  beautiful. 

BROCK'S    MONUMENT. 

The  monument  stands  on  the  Heights  of  Queenston, 
from  whence  the  village  derives  its  name.  The  present 
structure  occupies  tlie  site  of  the  former  one,  which  was 
blown  uj)  by  some  miscreant  on  the  17th  of  April,  1840. 
riie  whole  edifice  is  185  feet  high  ;  on  the  sub-base,  which 


''j-'i. 


i6 

is  40  feet  square  and  30  feet  high,  are  placed  four  Hons,  fac- 
ing North,  South,  East  and  West ;  the  base  of  the  pedestal 
is  21^  feet  square  and  10  feet  high  ;  the  pedestal  itself  is  16 
feet  scjuare  and  10  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  heavy  corn- 
ice, ornamented  with  lions'  heads  and  wreaths  in  alto  relievo. 
In  ascending  from  the  top  of  the  pedestal  to  the  top  of  the 
base  of  the  shaft,  the  form  changes  from  square  to  round. 
The  shaft  is  a  fluted  column  of  free-stone,  75  feet  high  and 
10  feet  in  diameter,  on  which  stands  a  Corinthian  capital 
10  feet  high,  whereon  is  wrought,  in  relief,  a  statue  of  the 
Goddess  of  War.  On  this  capital  is  the  dome  9  feet  high, 
reached  by  250  spiral  steps  from  the  base,  on  the  inside. 
On  the  top  of  the  dome  is  placed  a  colossal  statue  of 
General  Brock. 


T 


FORT  NIAGARA. 

This  fort  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  river,  on 
the  American  side.  There  are  many  interesting  associa- 
tions connected  with  this  spot,  as  during  the  early  part  of 
the  past  century,  it  was  the  scene  of  many  severe  conflicts 
between  the  whites  and  Indians,  and  subsequently  between 
the  English  and  French.  The  names  of  the  heroic  La 
Salle,  the  courdy  l)e  Nouville  and  the  gallant  Prideaux  will 
long  retain  a  name  in  the  history  of  this  country.  The  vil- 
lage adjacent  to  the  fort  is  called  Youngtown,  in  honor  of 
its  founder,  the  late  John  Young,  Esq. 

NIAGARA, 

is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Ontario  and  was  formerly  the 
capital  of  the  Province.  It  is  situated  where  the  old  town 
of  Newark  stood,  and  is  opposite  to  Youngtown.     It  faces 


17 


THE  QUEENS  HOTEL 


TORONTO. 


THE  LARGEST  AND  BEST  HOTEL  IN  THE  CITY. 

Re-modeled,  Re-decorated  and  Enlarged  for  Season  of  1884. 

The  Coolest  Summer  House  in  Canada. 

Beautiful  Croquet  and  Chevalier  Lawns. 

ELECTRIC   BELLS,    ELEVATORS,   BATHS,    ETC. 


The  residence,  when  in  the  City,  of  the 

Governor  General 


THE  TABLE  IS  UNSURPASSED  L\  CANADA. 

Porters  Meet  all  Boats  and  Trains. 


McGAW    &    WINNETT,    Props. 


ALSO   TKOPKIETOKS 

QUEENS  ROYAL,  TECUMSEH  HOUSE, 

Niagara,  Okt.  London,  Ont. 


i8 

the  river  on  one  side  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  trade  of  this 
j)la(:e  has  been  (Hverted  to  St.  Catherines  since  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Welland  canal,  and  the  other  towns  upon  the 
Niagara  river  have  suffered  in  common  from  the  same  cause. 


Ill- 


THE  CITY  OF  TORONTO. 

Toronto,  the  cai)ital  city  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is 
situated  on  a  circular  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  was 
founded  by  (iovernor  Simcoe,  in  1794.  The  city  was  for- 
merly called  York.  Toronto  bay  is  a  beautiful  inlet,  sepa- 
rated from  the  main  body  of  Lake  Ontario,  except  at  its 
entrance,  by  a  long,  narrow  sandy  beach.  The  South-West- 
ern  extremity  is  called  Gibralter  Point.  It  is  165  miles 
from  Kingston,  45  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  50  miles  from 
the  falls  of  Niagara.  The  population  in  17 17  was  1,200; 
but  at  the  present  time  it  amounts  to  about  75,000.  The 
city  is  laid  out  at  right  angles.  Its  chief  public  buildings 
are  the  cathedrals  and  churches,  the  Parliament  House, 
University  of  Toronto,  Trinity  College,  Normal  School,  St. 
Michael's  College,  Osgoode  Hall,  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  Me- 
chanics Institute,  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum,  post-office, 
exchange  and  city  schools.  Its  system  of  free  public 
schools  is  one  of  the  most  perfect  and  best  conducted  in 
America.  Among  the  many  pleasant  drives  around  this 
city  the  traveler  should  visit  College  Avenue  and  the 
Queen's  Park.  In  this  park  is  erected  a  statue  of  the 
Queen  and  a  monument  to  commemorate  the  college 
youths  who  fell  at  Ridgeway  defending  the  country  from 
the  attacks  of  the  Fenians.  The  University  of  Toronto,  a 
most  magnificent   building,    is  also  situated   in   this  ])ark. 


19 

The  Parliament  of  Ontario  and  the  principal  law  courts  are 
held  in  this  city.  It  is  connected  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  and  steamboats  for  all  points.  The  best  hotel  in 
Toronto  is  the  (Queen's— Messrs.  McCiaw  cV  Winnett,  pro- 
prietors. This  beautiful  house  has  every  modern  improve- 
ment and  comfort ;  it  has  a  passenger  elevator,  and  in  case  of 
fire  would  be  one  of  the  very  safest  hotels  in  America,  as  it  is 
for  the  most  part  but  three  stories  high,  and  is  on  all  sides 
surrounded  by  wide,  open  space. 


PORT    HOPE 

is  situated  65  miles  from  Toronto.  A  small  stream,  which 
here  falls  into  the  lake,  has  formed  a  valley,  in  which  the 
town  is  located.  The  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream  is 
shallow,  but  safe  and  commodious.  Port  Hope  is  a  prettv 
town;  on  the  western  side  the  hills  rise  gradually  one  above 
the  other.  The  highest  summit,  called  '•  Fort  Orton,"  af- 
fords a  fine  prospect,  and  overlooks  the  country  for  a  great 
distance.     The  village   is   incorporated ;  po]3ulation,  about 

COBOURG, 

seven  miles  below  Port  Hope,  contains  6,000  inhabitants. 
It  has  seven  churches,  two  banks,  three  grist  mills,  two 
founderies,  and  the  largest  cloth  factory  in  the  Province. 
It  is  also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College  and  Theological 
Institute.  Midway  between  Port  Hope  and  Cobourg  is 
"  Duck  Island,"  on  which  a  light-house  is  maintained  by 
the  government. 


20 

For  the  bent'tit  of  all  we  submit  the  following  time-table — 
not  forgetting  to  mention  that  steamboats  are  not  infalli- 
ble, but  are  governed  by  man.  accomi)anied  by  steam,  wind 
and  water.  If  the  boat  is  one  hour  late  in  starting  from 
any  gi\en  ]ioint.  it  is  likely  she  will  remain  so,  as  I  know  of 
bur  one  boat  in  the  line  that  can  beat  or  surpass  schedule 
time. 

T.FAVINT,  EVERY  DAY — srXDAVS  EXCEPTED. 

Toronto  (Smulay  Ex-  Moiiisl)uri>- lL':(>')  p.  m. 

cei'ted 2:0<i  v.  m.     Chrvsler's  Farm 12:17      " 


Khijiston      I  Monday 

Kxeeiited) o:(io  a.  :\i. 

Clay  ion (i.OO 

Alexandria  Vmy 7:<»0      '• 

Brock villo 0:;;o 

Prescott 10:80 

Galop  Rajiids 11:05 

Inxjuois ll:o") 

Nai-rowest  Point 1 1 :4") 

Rapid  Piatt ll:."j 


(. 
i, 
a 
,( 

a 


Anltsville 12::{0 

Farren's  Point 1 2:40 

Dickenson's   Landing..  1 2:")5 

Long  Sault 1:00 

Last  ol'  V.  8.  shore 1:15 

Corn  wall 1::>0 

Coteau    Landing 4:00 

Cedar  Rapid 4:o0 

Indian  Pilot 0:00 

Montreal 7:00 


u 
it 
^^ 
(( 

ii 
It 
a 
a 
u 


We  assume  that  we   are  now  fairl)-  entering  on  the  ma- 
jestic stream  on  the  Canadian  side. 


THE  CITY  OF  KINGSTON, 

which  has  a  ])opulation  of  15,000.  was  founded  in  1672,  by 
Governor  DeCourcelles,  receiving  the  name  of  Fort  Cata- 
raqui.  Later,  :;  massive  stone  fort  was  built  by  Count  De 
Frontenac,  and  received  his  name.  In  1762  the  place  was 
taken  by  the  British,  who  gave  it  its  present  name.  As  a 
place  of  defense  it  stands  next  in  strength  to  Quebec.     The 


u 
a 
u 
u 

u 
t( 

(( 


i 


l)atteries  of  Fort  Henry  are  calculated  for  the  reception  of 
numerous  cannon  and  mortars  of  the  largest  caHhre.  These, 
together  with  neighboring  martello  towers,  form  a  formida- 
ble defense  against  any  aggressive  movement  which  might 
be  directed  against  the  city.  These  fortifications  are  seen 
to  excellent  advantage  from  the  steamer  soon  after  it  leaves 
the  dock. 

On  the  right  is  Garden  Island  ;  on  the  left.  Cedar  Island, 
and  behind  is  Fort  Henry.  There  is  here.  also,  in  view, 
the  round  stone  towers  referred  to  above.  Near  the 
middle  of  the  river  is  Wolf  or  Long  Island,  21  miles  long, 
and  7  miles  vvi,';  near  the  Western  end.  'Hierc  is  nothinu 
either  of  romance  or  historical  ei)isode  to  weave  into  our 
story  concerning  the  inhabitants  of  this,  the  largest  of  the 
Thousand  Island  group.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  terri- 
tory is  a  portion  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  that  the 
habits  of  civilized  life  characterize  the  peo])le.  Between 
one  channel  and  the  main  land  there  is  St.  John's  or  Howe 
Island,  of  no  mean  proportions. 

Ordinarly,  we  have  now  sjDent  about  one  hour  on  the 
steamer  from  Kingston,  and  come  to  the  ])oint  in  the  chan- 
nel where  we  must  diverge  either  for  Gananocpie,  or  Clav- 
ton.  We  are  bound  for  the  former.  If  the  boat  takes  the 
American  channel,  (for  description  turn  to  Roi.te  B  page  27). 
As  soon  as  the  lighthouse  on  Burnt  Island  comes  in  view,  we 
may  be  said  to  have  fairly  entered  upon  the  real  beauty  of 
the  "  sacred  river  of  America."  In  steering  for  Gananotiue. 
we  pass  many  pretty  little  isles  of  six  or  eight  acres.  On 
the  right  is  a  range  light,  the  boat,  of  course,  jjassing  be- 
tween the  two.  It  is  said  that  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer 
one  hundred  islands  can  be  counted — in  fact,  the  ])anorama 


)-^f 


22 

:s  probably  matchless  on  the  globe.  While  the  islands  are 
so  numerous  both  on  the  right  and  left,  the  boat  glides  by  in 
its  efforts  to  reach  Gananoque  without  allowing  the  tourist 
to  be  distracted  in  the  rapture  of  delight  that  is  feasting  his 
eyes.  Some  of  these  isles  are  scarcely  more  than  barren 
rocks,  while  others  are  paradises  of  verdure. 

Names  of  Islands  that  are  numbered  on  the  Phat  Boy's 
Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  because  the  space  would  not 
permit  printing  the  names  in  full : 


53.  Robinson, 

54.  Calumet, 
56.  Seven, 
57    Pratt, 

58.  Wan  Winnet, 

59.  Cuba, 

60.  Devil's  Oven, 

61.  Cherry, 

61^  Southgate,  R.  H. 

62.  Pullman, 

63.  Nobby, 

64.  Welcome, 

65.  Friendly, 

66.  Florence, 

67.  Bay  View,  late  Maud, 

68.  Imperial, 

70.  Resort, 

71.  Deshler, 

72.  Kipp, 

73.  Terry, 

75.  Judge  Donahue, 
79.   Proctor, 


80.  Pike, 

81.  Idlewild, 

82.  Little  Lehigh, 
83-  Sport, 

'^'  >  Summer  Land  Group, 
55.  ) 

86.   Arcada, 

88.   Schooner, 

94.  Snake, 

95.  Float, 

96.  Milk, 

97.  Sugar, 
100.   Wallace, 
102.   Deer, 

107.  Hoopers, 

108.  Shanter, 

109.  Rattle  Snake, 

111.  Round, 

112.  Poverty, 

I  [4.   Hemlock, 


'i 


I  T 


Snipe, 


116.  Three  Brothers, 


2  3 


1 1 7.  Half  Way. 

137.  Brush. 

139.  Flat, 

1  41.  Round  To|), 

142.  Indian  Chief, 

143.  Pine  Tree, 

144.  Middle, 

145.  Big, 

146.  wShoeniakers, 

147.  Bill  Berry, 

148.  Ras])berry, 


T49.  Bush, 

150.  Coles  and  Smith, 

151.  H.  A.  Fields. 
160.  Melville, 

163.  l)ixon, 

164.  McGraw, 

165.  Sears. 

166.  Benedict. 

167.  Ruycraft. 
169.  Deniston. 


We  now  reach  Inisy  and  ]jicturesque 


GANANOQUE, 

iiihr.bited  by  about  three  thousand  people,  eighteen  miles 
FLast  of  Kingston,  nearl}-  the  center  of  the  Thousand  Is- 
lands. It  may  be  well  to  state  here  that  authorities  (?)  dif- 
fer as  to  how  many  islands  there  really  are.  Some  say  fif- 
teen hundred  ;  some  eighteen  hundred,  and  others  carefully 
write,  nearly  two  thousand.  Fife  is  too  short  for  us  to  stop 
and  count  these  natural  beauties,  and  even  the  pilots  have 
no  desire  to  earn  fame  as  statisticians  by  asserting  the  cor- 
rect number.  The  ••  I'hat  Boy  "  has  just  issued  the  only 
correct  maj)  of  the  St.  Fawrence  River,  published,  which 
will  not  be  misleading  to  the  student  of  minute  details. 
But  we  digress. 

\\'e  are  still  at  Gananocjue.  It  is  com|)aratively  easy  to 
get  away,  for  steamers  ply  along  this  Canada  shore,  keeping 
well  north  of  the  manv  islands,  till  thev  get  to  Brockville. 
\\'e  soon  pass  a  light  on  the  left  called  Jack  Straw,  and  on 


n  w '- 


24 

the  right  observe  a  beacon  and  pier.  Further  along, 
another  hglit  comes  in  view.  The  next  attractive  spot  is 
called  by  the  quaint  name  of  Fiddler's  Elbow.  The  tradi- 
tions connected  with  such  names  are  sometimes  thrilling 
and  sometimes  insipid ;  but  whether  the  one  or  the  other, 
they  will  continue  to  stick,  but  if  they  serve  to  indelibly  im- 
press  upon  our  memory  some  pleasing  reminiscence  of  a 
•'  thing  of  beauty,"  these  names  will  not  be  by  any  means 
evanescent  in  their  influence.  As  we  frequently  say,  the 
elbow  is  still  here,  but  the  fiddler  is,  I  guess,  over  at  the  camp 
meeting  on  Well's  island.  He  is  probably  first  cousin  of 
"  The  Arkansas  Traveler." 

But  here  we  are  in  a  tortuous  channel, 

AMONG  THE  ISLANDS. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  hundreds  of  islands 
are  all  occupied  and  have  cottages  on  them,  or  laid  out 
with  walks  and  fountains.  For  every  island  ihot  has  a 
house  on  it  there  are  perhaps  twenty  that  have  none.  The 
number  of  houses  are  increasing  every  year,  and  I  think 
that  in  time  nearly  every  island  will  be  occupied  in  the  Ca- 
nadian channel  as  they  are  in  the  American. 

On  the  left  is  Darling's  dock,  the  famous  wood  station. 
We  have,  as  yet,  never  seen  the  "  Darling,"  although  the 
dock  is  always  visible.  It  may  be  she  is  busy  in  the  pantry 
washing  dishes. 

Two  miles  and  a  half  below  is 

ROCKPO.RT. 

This  name  would  seem  to  have  been  given  the  place  on 
account  of  its  rocky  formation.     It  is  avowed  here  that 


fai 
dr 


to 

Tl 

ge 

T 

ri\ 


along, 
;  spot  is 
le  tradi- 
thrilling 
le  other, 
libly  im- 
ice  of  a 
y  means 
say,  the 
he  camp 
ousin  of 


f  islands 
laid  out 
?t  has  a 
le.  The 
1  I  think 
n  the  Ca- 

d  station, 
ough  the 
he  pantry 


;  place  on 
here  that 


25 

there  are  only  two  seasons ;  the  rocky  season  and  the  icy 
season.  Most  of  the  visitors  come  here  in  the  "  rocky  sea- 
son." Directly  opposite  on  the  right,  the  Park  House  on 
\^'estminister  park  is  visible  ;  also  the  fine  chapel  on  Mt. 
Beulah.  its  tower  being  136  feet  high.  On  the  left  is  Gre- 
nadier Island  Light-house. 

From  the  deck  of  our  steamer,  looking  to  the  right,  we 
now  ha\'e  one  of  the  most  charming  views  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Alexandria  Bay  is  before  us,  and  the  famous  Thous- 
and Island  House  and  Crossmon  House  can  be  seen  on 
yonder  shore.  Within  the  range  of  our  vision  are  also  the 
islands  transformed  by  wealth,  taste  and  art  into  the  loveli- 
est of  Summer  resorts  by  their  owners,  namely :  P'airvland 
(seven  acres),  C.  H.  &  W.  B.  Hayden,  Columbus,  Ohio  ; 
Idlewild  (four  acres).  R.  A.  Packer,  Sayre,  Pa.  ;  and  Sport 
(four  acres),  H.  A.  Packer,  Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.,  who  died  in 
1884.     Occujiied  this  season  by  H.  C.  Will)ur  and  friends. 

The  scene  at  night  on  these  islands  is  enchanting  almost 
beyond  description.  An  ai)proved  gas  machine  su])|)lies 
the  illumination  for  hundreds  of  colored  lamps  susi)ended 
in  graceful  designs  on  Sport  Island,  which  is  connected 
with  the  other  Packer  island  1)y  a  wire  susj)ension  bridge. 

In  the  distance,  one  mile,  still  looking  to  the  right,  is  the 
famous  Whiskey  island.  A  pilot  of  the  Canadian  line  got 
drunk  at  his  post  and  fell  into  an  oblivious  condition  ;  the 
steamboat,  under  full  headway,  struck  the  island,  and  the 
name  was  given  in  commemoration  of  that  event.  Next, 
to  the  right,  is  a  stone  edifice  called  the  'Hiree  Sisters  light. 
They  were  formerly  "  old  maids."  but  are  now  joined  to- 
gether by  a  stone  wall,  consequently  old  maids  no  longer. 
The  next  in  order  is  Cross-over  light.  At  this  point  in  the 
river  the  steamer  crosses  to  the   American  channel,  and  in 


tf  f 


26 

a  very  short  time  is  discovered  to  be  making  for  the  Cana- 
dian channel  acrain  to  reach  Brockville.  Befcbre  the  tourist 
gets  there,  however,  he  will  observe  numerous  Islands  ;  the 
most  noted  are  Bathhurst,  Tecumseh,  Star,  McDonald  and 
Hill  Crest.  On  the  left,  on  the  main  Canadian  shore,  com- 
modious and  elegant  villas  are  in  view;  also  St.  Lawrence 
Park,  picnic  and  pleasure  grounds  of  Brockville  and  vicinity. 
All  Summer  long,  the  scene  is  animated  and  captivating. 
The  whistle  announces  in  its  shrill   way  that  we  are  now  at 


'S 


BROCKVILLE, 

which  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Brock,  who  fell  in 
Queenston  Heights,  in  the  war  of  18 12.  It  is  situated  on 
the  Canadian  side  of  the  St.  LawTence,  and  is  one  of  the 
pleasantest  villages  in  the  Province.  It  is  right  at  the  foot 
of  the  Thousaiid  Islands,  on  an  elevation  of  land,  which 
rises  from  the  river  in  a  succession  of  ridges.  The  town 
was  laid  out  in  1S02.  and  is  now  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.     The  present  population  is  about  6,500. 

After  leaving  the  wharf,  the  boat  passes  the  most  beauti- 
ful clift"  on  the  river,  the  palisades  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on 
which  are  erected  magnificent  mansions  and  suburban  villas 
of  Canada's  d.istinguishtd  sons.  The  most  prominent  of 
these  is  the  son  of  Sir  Hugh  Allan,  whose  residence  is  in- 
deed superb.  The  sight-seer  observes  the  winding  stairs, 
boat  and  bath  houses,  and  other  appointments  of  recrea- 
tion. 

Having  already  intimated  that  there  are  other  routes 
which  lead  to  the  point  in  the  river  which  we  have  now 
reached,  we  return  westward  to  bring  another  party  through 
the  American  channel. 


tl 

Tl( 


is 
fo 


27 


e  Caua- 
i  tourist 
(Is  ;  the 
aid  and 
re,  com- 
awrence 
vicinity, 
tivating. 
i  now  at 


10  fell  in 
.lated  on 
e  of  the 
the  foot 
d,  which 
'he  town 
siderable 
o. 

it  beauti- 
•ence,  on 
jan  villas 
linent  of 
ice  is  in- 
ig  stairs, 
)f  recrea- 

ijr  routes 
have  now 
y  through 


R 


OUTE 


'b; 


The  boats  of  the  R.  cSc  O.  N.  Co.  Royal  Mail  line  leave 
'Ihigston  at  five  o'clock  a.  isi.,  except  on  Monday,  and  the 
steamer  Ontario  leaves  Kingston  at  12:30  p.  m.,  every  day  for 
Alexandria  Bay,  where  its  passengers  connect  every  morning 
except  Monday  by  the  Royal  M^il  Line  for  Montreal,  etc. 

For  the  first  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  there  is  nothing 
€si)ecially  worthy  of  note.  Then  we  strike  the  cross-over 
channel.  Now,  the  time  is  early  morning,  the  sun  is  quite 
bright,  and  the  atmosphere  is  remarkably  clear.  The  scene 
is  now  attractive.  Look  ahead  in  the  distance  a  little  to 
the  left,  and  you  will  behold  the  eagle  tree.  Hundreds 
have  been  deceived  with  the  idea  that  it  was  an  actural  live 
eagle,  spreading  its  wings  and  soaring  aloft  to  a  height  that 
the  imagination  can  scarcely  reach.  It  is  a  delusion  ;  'tis 
nothing  but  a  tree,  as  its  true  features,  or  rather  beautiful 
foliage,  has  deceived  the  eye  of  the  novice  of  this  region. 

On  the  left  is  Grindstone  Island.  On  it  is  an  organized 
community.  The  inhabitants  are  farmers,  and  for  the  edu- 
cation of  whose  children  a  school  is  maintained. 

CLAYTON 

is  in  the  American  channel.     In  the  distant   front,  just  be- 
fore landing,  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Prospect  i)ark 


S 


28 


and  hill,  a  delightful  spot  for  recreation  and  pleasure.  No 
Ijetter  view  can  be  had  of  the  islands  and  surrounding 
country  than  from  the  eminence  of  the  hill.  Clayton  is  our 
first  stopping  place.  It  is  a  village  that  derives  its  impor- 
tance to  tourists  as  being  the  terminus  of  the  Utica  and 
Black  River  Railroad,  and  here  it  is  where  passengers  from 
the  East  generally  get  their  first  glimpse  of  the  St.  Lawrence- 
There  are  two  good  hotels,  the  Hubbard  and  Walton 
Houses,  kept  by  two  as  genial  landlords  as  ever  lived,  and 
from  the  town  many  fishing  parties  go  out  daily.  The 
steamer  J.  F.  Maynard  runs  from  this  port  in  connection  with 
the  above  named  railroad  for  Alexandria  Bay  and  other 
landing  ])laces  eii  route.  Opposite  Clayton,  on  the  left  as 
we  proceed  down  the  river,  is  Governor  Island,  owned  by 
Hon.  Thomas  G.  Alvord,  of  Syracuse.  Next  to  Gov. 
Alvord's  Isle  on  left  is  Calumet,  five  acres,  owned  by  Chas. 
E.  Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarette  and  tobacco  fame,  and 
has  lavishly  expended  a  large  amount  of  money  for  comfort. 
His  villa  and  apartments  are  quite  striking.  The  next 
island  on  the  left,  about  200  yards  distant,  is  Powder  Horn. 
The  origin  of  this  *''  eui)honious"  name  has  not  been  handed 
down  by  tradition.  On  the  right  is  Washington  Island  ;  on 
the  left,  nearly  ojjposite,  is  Bluff  Island,  and  behind  which 
is  Robin's  Island.  Next,  on  the  right,  over  two  miles  from 
Cla\ton,  is 


ROUND  ISLAND 


and  i)ark.  This  is  the  property  of  the  Baptist  Association, 
ar.vl  every  year  people  of  this  persuasion  in  large  numbers 
gather  for  religious  worship  and  recreation.  There  is  a 
temperance  hotel,  fitted  with  the  modern  appointments,  for 


^^^ajSLI 


ire.     No 
rounding 
on  is  our 
s  impor- 
tica  and 
^ers  from 
.awrence- 
L   Walton 
ived,  and 
ily.     The 
jtion  with 
.nd  other 
le  left  as 
owned  by 
to  Gov. 
by  Chas. 
fame,  and 
comfort, 
lie  next 
er  Horn, 
n  handed 
and ;  on 
d  which 
liles  from 


sociation, 

numbers 

here  is   a 

lients,  for 


29 

the  accommodation  of  300  guests,  named  the  Rountl  Island 
House.  Tiie  docks  are  in  excellent  condition,  and  the  fish- 
ing boats  are  favorites.  On  the  left  is  Little  Round  Island 
and  '•  Hog's  Back."  We  have  now  several  cottages  in  view; 
the  one  i)ainted  dark  brown  is  owned  by  Mr.  Harbodle. 
On  the  point  is  Ethelridge  cottage,  and  many  others  not 
known  to  me. 

Leaving  Round  Island,  and  looking  in  the  distant  front. 
we  have  a  view  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park.  About  one 
mile  from  Round  Island  on  the  right  is  Watch  Island  or 
'*  Indolence."  owned  by  S.  T.  .Skinner.  On  the  left  are 
Blurt",  Maple  and  Hemlock,  the  three  pretty  islands  fronting 
the  foot  of  Grindstone  Island.  On  Hemlock  is  the  Cliff 
House,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison,  of  .Syracuse.  About  five 
minutes  after  leaving  Round  Island,  we  come  in  sight  of 
Hub  Island  and  House,  burned  in  March,  1884;  which  lie 
on  the  left ;  Grinnell's  Island  and  House  ;  Otsego  Camp  is 
also  on  the  left.  On  the  right  is  Fishers  landing,  Rc^biiison's 
island,  owned  by  F.ugene  Robinson.  New  York  baii^er  and 
broker  (he  broke  Drew),  Johnson's  light,  Washburn  Island 
and  Frederick  Island.  Mr.  Johnson,  the  original  liglit-house 
keeper,  and  at'ter  whom  the  Island  is  named,  was  the  man 
who  burned  the  Robert  Peel,  the  English  vessel,  in  retaliation 
for  sending  the  Carolina  over  Niagara  Falls. 

Just  before  landing  at  Thousand  Island  Park.  upj)er  end 
of  Well's  Island,  now  called  Wellesley  Island,  is  Twin  Island, 
owned  by  J.  L.  Huntington.  On  the  left,  and  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  is  the  bath  house, 
where  the  Methodists  can  get  baptism,  a  la  Bob  Ingersoll. 
with  soap.  Said  to  be  good  for  this  world,  if  not  hereafter. 
We  now  land  at 


30 


THOUSAND   ISLAND  PARK. 

The  boat  lands  at  the  western  end  of  Wells  Island,  at  a 
fine  wharf,  and  close  to  a  large  number  of  handsome  cot- 
tages. You  can  tell  what  the  place  is  the  moment  you 
api)roach  it.  Tiiere  is  no  mistaking  a  Methodist  Summer 
camp,  find  it  where  you  will.  It  is  always  neat  and  clean 
and  orderly.  This  is  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  a  Metho- 
dist  resort,  oi)ened  in  1873.  Although  the  scenery  is  some- 
what marred  by  the  great  number  of  solemn-faced  clergy- 
men strolling  about  the  grounds,  it  is  still  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  s})0ts  to  be  found  among  the  islands.  Camp- 
meetings  are  held  here  ;  also  Sunday-school  and  temperance 
and  educational  conventions,  and  other  meetings  all  through 
the  Summer.  A  large  and  spacious  hotel  completed,  will 
open  about  July  loth.  The  name  was  originally  Thousand 
Island  Cam[)  Ground,  but  was  changed  in  1878  to  its  i)fes- 
ent  name. 

Again  on  our  way.  the  first  house  on  the  left  is  owned  by 
Harlow  J.  Remington,  Ilion,  whose  fame  and  fortune  is  in 
riries.  Next  on  the  left  Wellesley  House  and  beautiful 
cottage.  On  the  right,  handsome  villas  line  the  shore  of 
the  island.  About  half  a  mile  from  Wellesley  House  i> 
Jolly  Oak  ])oint,  with  its  four  cottages,  two  owned  by  the 
Norton  brothers,  a  third  by  Dr.  Ferguson,  and  the  fourth 
by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butterfield,  of  Redwood.  From  here  to 
Lookout  point  is  about  half  a  mile ;  and  next  is  Rood'^ 
place,  with  a  fine  dock  and  good  accommodations  for  tour 
ists.  About  two  hundred  yards  below  is  Peel's  dock  wherr 
the  boat  Robert  Peel  was  burned  in  183  7.  Robin's  cot 
tage,  100  feet  to  the  left ;  a  little  below  on  the  right  is  tlu 
fiirm  of  Captain  Jack  ;  you  can  see  the  old  saw-mill  in  a 


1 

(is 


land,  at  a 
jome  cot- 
.ment  you 
t  Summer 
and  clean 
a  Metho- 
•y  is  some- 
ed  clergy- 
f  the  most 
s.     Cami)- 
emperance 
all  through 
pleted,  will 
Thousand 
to  its  pies- 
owned  by 
»rtune  is  in 
I  beautiful 
e  shore  ol 
House    ii^ 
ned  by  the 
the   fourth 
>m  here  t^i 
is  Roo(V^ 
ns  for  tour 
lock  where 
obin's   cot 
right  is  thi 
,v-mill  in  a 


31 

dilapidated  condition  on  the  bank.  Opposite  on  the  left  is 
the  celebrated  Liinburger  cheese  factory.  (Post  mortem 
examinations  held  here  weekly.)  (This  ''goak  "  would  take 
better  if  you  was  just  introduced  to  Limburger  for  the  tirst 
time.)  On  the  right  is  Collins'  dock  ;  below  a  few  teet  is 
Calumet  Island,  and  cottage,  owned  by  Rev.  Henry  G. 
W'aite,  of  llion,  N.  Y.  On  the  right  lies  the  remains  of 
old  Cai)tain  Jack's  boat,  gone  to  rest.  *  *  *  Here  you 
are  expected  to  drop  a  tear.  Brown's  Bay  on  the  left  and 
Swan  Bay  on  the  right.  Passing  the  bays,  we  come  on  the 
right  to  Central  Park,  formerly  (irinnell's  Point  and  parade 
ground,  purchased  by  parties  antl  laid  out  for  a  park.  Foot 
of  Central  Park  is  Page  point,  a  former  wood  station  for  the 
N.  T.  Co.'s  line  of  steamers.  On  the  right  is  Point  \'ivian, 
a  beautiful  spot  occupied  by  probably  a  community  of 
friends.  They  have  ])leasant  cottages  in  which  they  si)end 
a  week  or  two  enjoying  choice  society.  Op|)osite  is  Dens- 
more  Bay  and  Mclntyre's  cottage,  called  "  Photo."  Mr. 
Mclntyre  is  known  as  the  picture  man  or  artist  of  the 
Thousand  Islands.  He  has  unquestionably  the  finest  col- 
lection of  views  that  have  ever  been  made  of  the  grand 
scenery. 

Next  on  the  left  is  Winslow  Point  and  Seven  Isles. 
Below  on  the  left  is  Louisiana  Point,  owned  by  Judge  La- 
batte,  of  New  Orleans.  Opposite  is  Centennial  Isle.  Next 
on  the  right,  is  Warner's  Isle. 

Beyond  is  Hill's  Isle,  and  then  Devil's  Rock  and  Oven. 
It  of  course  derives  its  name  from  the  j)eculiar  natural  for- 
mation, that  of  an  old  Dutch  oven,  and  it  is  said  to  have 
been  the  hiding  place  of  old  Bill  Johnston,  who  is  remem- 
bered as  mixed  up    in    the   border  troubles  of  1837.     In 


1" 


32 


The  Thousand  Island  House. 


Situated  on  tlie  River  St.   Lawrence,  at   Alexandria  Bay,  Jefierson 
County,  New  York,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  far-famed 

THOUSAND    ISLANDS, 

Tlic  verv  Mecca  of  Pleasure-Seekers.     The  C<?ntre  of  Ciravity.     The 
[»ivot  upon  whicli  revolves  everything. 

Thi'^  House  contains  all  the  modern  improvements,  with  elevator. 
Kooms  single  or  en  suite,  with  hath  rooms  and  closets  attached,  and 
everything  that  can  add  to  the  comfort  or  convenience  of  the  guests. 

Travelers  will  find  this  place  as  healthful  as  it  is  heautiful,  with 
no  mosquitoes  or  chilis  and  fever,  while  to  the  linest  scenerv  in  the 
world  are  added  the  attractions  of  BOATING,  FISHING,  HUNT- 
IN(;.  and  BATIHNO,  as  well  as  BILLLAKDS,  BOWLING  AL- 
LEY,  CR()Q11:T  GROUNDS,  Etc. 

Parties  taking  rooms  for  the  season  will  find  liheral  deductions 
from  regular  rates.     iSend  for  pamphlet  with  terms,  etc. 

At  this  Hotel  was  held  the  Banijuet  tendered  President  Arthur,  in 
October,  1882. 

R.  H.  SOUTHGATE,  Proprietor, 

Alexandria  Bay,  New  York. 
J.  C.  MATHEWS,  Manager. 


33 


USE. 


,  Jefierson 
far-fjiiuetl 


\>s. 


:ity.    Tlie 

li  elevator, 
iched,  and 
he  guests. 

[tiful,  with 

[erv  in  the 

r,  llUNT- 

llNG  AL- 

lleiUictions 
I  Arthur,  in 

iw  York. 


front  is  Cuba  Isle,  owned  by  W.  F.  Storey,  of  l^iitialo.  and 
occui^ied  b}'  Nfr.  Kaston,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  V.  Next  on  tlie 
right  is  Cherry  Isle,  u\}on  which  cottages  are  erected,  one 
of  which  is  occupied  by  Rev.  George  Rockwell,  of  Fukon. 
N.  v..  who  was  formerly  pastor  of  the  first  Reformed 
Church  organized  in  Alexandria  Hay.  The  large  brown 
cottage  on  Cherry  Island  named  Melrose  is  jointly  owned 
by  Mrs.  A.  B.  Pullman  and  Mrs.  G.  B.  Marsh. 

On  the  right  is  the  Rev.  R.  H.  Pullman's  island  ;  the 
cottage  is  painted  brown.  Op])osite  on  the  left  is  Pullman, 
Nobby,  Friendly,  Welcome,  Florence,  Imperial  and  Bay 
View.  This  group  may  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer  in  the  order  given.     Here  we  shoot  into 

ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

whicii  is  three  or  four  miles  long,  and  one-and-a-half  miles 
wide,  reaching  from  the  shore,  on  the  American  side,  to 
Wells  Island.  The  chief  feature  around  liere  is  the  grand 
hotels — the  larizest  known  as  the  Thousand  Island  House  ; 
the  finest  building  on  the  St.  Lawrence  river.  FYom  the 
Bay  fishing  parties  are  constantly  going  out.  The  channels 
about  the  islands  are  the  Paradise  of  fishermen.  The  boats 
are  the  most  convenient  and  comfortable  in  the  world,  the 
boatmen  the  most  acconnnodating.  and  the  pickerel,  pike 
and  i2;amev  black  l)ass  and  rock  bass,  and  nniscalomie.  in 
the  u;reatest  abundance. 

WHAT  AND  WHO  MADE  ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In  1872  President  Grant  visited  this  delightful  spot,  a 
guest  of  R.  M.  Pullman,  of  palace  car  fame,  Pullman 
Island.  Tliere  was  at  that  time  inadi(piate  hotel  accom- 
modations, for  the  tourist  as   well   as  the   visitor  who   had 


i 


r 


34 

been  drawn  to  this  the  most  l)eautit"iil  natural  scenery  in 
the  world.  Messrs.  Cornwall  and  Walton  of  Alexandria 
liay  with  their  usual  display  of  sense  and  sagacity,  as  well 
as  business  tact  for  which  they  have  always  been  commend- 
ed, oftered  to  give  the  best  site  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  any 
man  who  would  erect  upcjn  it,  a  tlrst  class  summer  hotel. 
Mr.  ().  G.  Staples,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.,  hearing  of  this 
offer  (^ame,  he  saw,  and  how  he  contiuered  you  shall  know 
as  we  proceed  with  our  narrative.  Well,  he  conchided  to 
father  the  scheme,  securing  a  man  with  money,  a  Mr.  Nott 
of  .Syracuse,  the  ground,  or  rock  rather,  was  broken  January 
14th,  i«S83,  and  the  Thousand  Island  House  was  completed 
and  opened  July  17th,  1S83,  just  six  months  from  the  day 
of  starting.  Rumor  says  that  although  their  money  gave 
out  a  little  above  the  first  story  Staples'  indomitable  will 
saw  it  com})leted  and  furnished,  ready  to  receive  guests, 
just  as  soon  and  as  well  as  if  he  had  been  a  millionare. 
During  the  next  two  years  of  the  jiartnership  of  Staples  and 
Nott,  everything  did  not  go  as  smoothly  as  a  marriage  bell, 
but  still  they  went,  and  in  the  end  Staples  had  the  money 
and  hotel.  (1  hope  the  reader  if  he  knows  Staples  will  not 
be  so  unkind  as  to  accuse  him  of  j)arting  with  all  his  ex- 
perience and  make  the  pun  that  he  rook  the  money  and 
Nott  the  exj)erience. )  Staples  Iv^'.^ght  out  Nott,  and  I 
believe,  paid  him  what  was  agreed,  and  he  run  the  hotel 
until  Ajn-il  15th,  1883,  when  Mr.  R.  H.  Southgate,  (the 
man  of  many  hotels,  too  numerous  to  mention  here.)  bought 
him  out,  placed  Mr.  A.  L.  Mellen,  of  the  St.  James  Hotel, 
Baltimore,  as  its  manager,  Mr.  Walter  Grihhi  as  room 
clerk,  Mr.'  John  Lane,  cashier,  Mr.  C.  F.  Southgate,  book- 
kee])er,  and  all  other  departments  were  filled  with  competent 
men  ;  the  steward   and  cooks   the  best  that  money  could 


35 


enerv  in 
•xantlria 
as  well 
nmiend- 
e  to  any 
:r  hotel. 
f  of  this 
ill  know 
lucled  to 
Mr.  Nott 
1  January 
ompleted 
1   the  day 
ney  gave 
able   will 
'e   nuests. 
lillionare. 
aples  and 
iage  bell, 
le  money 
will  not 
1  his  ex- 
oney  and 
tt,  and  I 
the  hotel 
^ate,   (the 
e.)  bought 
les  Hotel, 
as   room 
ite,  book- 
:ompetent 
ney  could 


secure;  Mr.  S.  (iodchaud  in  charge  of  the  tluid  depart- 
ment, and  we  can  say  tliat  success  crowned  their  efforts 
for  US.S3.  The  many  changes  that  have  been  made,  and 
those  contemplated,  and  when  com])leted.  will  make  this 
the  mecca  of  summer  resort  watering  i)laces.  the  \'enice  of 
America.  I  desire  to  say  right  here  that  I  hope  Mr.  South- 
gate  will  not  lose  sight  of  wliat  has  in  the  ])ast  made  the 
Hay  j)opular  as  a  resort.  I  like  to  see  the  standard  of 
visitors  raised  as  well  as  the  prices.  I  would  like  it  to  be 
the  place  for  fish  as  wel'  as  those  who  love  the  ])i!^:catorial 
art.  No  dust,  no  dampness,  no  malaria  or  hay  fever,  no 
moscpiitoes.  light,  dry  air.  cool  and  bracing.  'I'hermometer 
never  over  80  nor  behjw  50  in  July  or  August,  and  one  can 
enjoy  what  is  denied  them  almost  everywhere  else,  a  good 
nine  hours  of  (^ool  refreshing  sleep  under  a  blanket.  Those 
troubled  with  pulmonary  com|)laints  will  tind  great  relief 
here.  Steamers,  steam  yachts  and  sailing  vessels  abound, 
everything  to  animate  the  scene  and  inhance  the  j)leasure 
of  \  isitors  is  done.  Fishing,  fishing  boats,  batliing.  etc., 
as  well  as  fish  abounds,  and  we  say  here,  if  you  have  never 
been  to  the  Bay  come,  if  you  have  been,  come  and  see  it 
under  the  new  reign  of  success,  and  I  know  you  will  l)e 
pleased.  The  season  of  ICS84.  the  Thousand  Island  House 
will  be  under  the  management  of  J.  C.  Mathews,  who  for 
the  past  seven  years  has  been  connected  with  such  hotels 
as  the  United  States.  Saratoga,  Tiie  Albermarle,  New  York 
city,  wliicli  ought  to  be  all  the  reference  required  to  assure 
guests  of  the  Thousand  Island  House  (as  the  same  staff  in 
the  officj  has  been  retained,)  that  they  will  be  well  taken 
care  of. 


36 


A  REAL  LIVE  DUDE 

was  at  the  Bay  last  season,  and  I  must  give  him  credit  for 
one  thing  if  I  could  not  for  having  either  money  or  brains, 
but  vvill  say  he  was  very  attentive  to  the  ladies,  and  it  may 
be  said  to  his  cr^'dit  he  never  tried  to  cut  me  out.  One 
fine  morning  he  induced  three  of  the  nicest  young  ladies  at 
the  bay  to  take  a  boat  ride,  and  for  the  privilege  of  their 
company  agreed  to  do  the  rowing  himself.  They  had  been 
out  upon  the  water  for  some  time,  and  he  had  done  the 
rowing  heroically,  but  getting  into  the  strong  current  his 
physical  development  was  being  tested  to  its  utmost,  when 
he  asked  the  young  ladies  "if  it  would  not  be  better  for 
him  to  hug  the  shore."  After  a  pause  of  a  minute  the  girl- 
iest  girl  of  the  group  exclaimed:  "'Well,  if  you  cannot  find 
anything  better  to  hug,  do  for  Heaven  sake  "hug  the 
shore ! " 


WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  CATCHING  FISH. 


During  the  summer  of  1883  I  was  at  the  Thousand  Island 
House,  Alexandria  Bay,  N"  Y..  and  took  note  of  some  of  the 
best  catches  of  fish,  which  with  pleasure  I  give  space  here, 
that  my  friends  may  see,  and  those  who  may  have  heard 
that  there  is  no  good  fishing  at  the  l)ay.  a  chance  to  judge. 
Let  me  first  sav  that  anvbodv  can  catch  fish  of  the  following 
varieties  anywhere  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River :  Rock  Bass? 
Black  Bass,  Perch,  Pike.  Pickerel  and  Muscalonge.  I  have 
caught,  oft'  the  dock  at  the  bay.  in  less  than  two  hours,  a 
Black  Bass  weighing  three  and  one-half  pounds  and  a 
Pickerel  weighing  over  six  pounds. 


37 


redit  for 
r  brains, 
d  it  may 
X.  One 
adies  at 
of  their 
lad  been 
one  the 
rent  his 
it,  when 
itter  for 
the  girl- 
mot  find 
hug  the 


FISH. 

d  Island 
lie  of  the 
.ce  here, 
e  heard 
o  judge, 
bllowing 
ck  Bass> 

I  have 
hours,  a 

-and    a 


THE  BEST  CATCHES  OF  FISH   FOR   1  883. 

Mr.  H.  A.  Redfield,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  caught  seventy 
Black  Bass,  thirty  weighing  over  two  and  one-half  pounds 
each 

Mr.  IIul])ert  R.  Clark,  of  Xew  York,  (firm  of  Teft.  Weller 
&  Co.).  caught  the  largest  Black  Bass  of  the  season  ;  it 
weighed  5^  lbs.  Mr.  Clark's  \oungest  son  caught  in  one 
day,  three  filack  Bass  weiuhinic  10  lbs. 

Ctid.  Shepherd,  Fisherman. 
Mr.  Henry  Stadler,  of  Xew    York,   (firm  of  Max  Stadler 
&  Co.),  caught  thirty  Black  Bass  over  4^.  and  several  over 
2  lbs. 

Vouxcr  McCuE,  Fisherman. 
Judge  S.   B.   Smitli.  of  \ew  York  ;    Hon.  J.  Hess,  Hon. 
H.  E.  Parley  and  Hon.  R.  G.  McCord  caught  in  one  day, 
Aug.  13,  250  fish  ;    twenty-two  weighed  over  2^  lbs.  each. 
Dan.  Starixc,  Sexkai,  cV  Billy  \\'HrrE, 

Fishermen. 
Geor,'-e  K.  Hulbert.  of  Cincinnati.  O..  caught.  .Sei)t.  i,  in 
front  of  tiie  Hioiisand   Island    FI(nise.  a  Pickerel  weighing 
7^  lbs. 

Messrs.  Mansfield  and  Powers  caught.  Sei)t.  i  a  Musca- 
longe  weighing  r^.J  ll)s  ;  Simuel  Godchaud,  of  "'ew  York, 
caught  a  Pickerel  weiglmig  11  i  Ib^. 

Willie  R()«;er>.    I'"isherman. 
Mr.  Sickel,  of  Albion.  N.  W.  caught  thirt\-  IMckerel  Au'^ 
10,  weighing  from  7  lo  9  lbs.  each. 

(iEoRtii':  HoADLEW  Fisherman. 
F.  A.  Myeis,  of  PittsburglL  Pa.,  caii-ht  in  .jne  dav  three 
Black   Bass   weigliing   uver  3  lbs.  each,  and    six   over  2  lbs. 

Chas.  iv()(.ERs.  Fisherman. 


Bia 


rm 


38 

Mr.  Geo.  B.  Greer  caught   thirty-two   Black   Bass,   five 

weighing  over  3  lbs. 

Chari.ev  Weller,  PMsherman. 

Chas.  Hayes,  of  Buflalo,  N.  Y.  caught  thirty  Black  Basr 
and  five  Pickerel,  and  a  Wail-Eyed  PiKe.  weigi.\ing  7^  lbs. 

John  Porter,  Fisherman. 

Master  Wheelock,  (son  of  Dr.  George  G.  Wheelock,  of 
New  York),  aged  six  years,  caught  three  Pickerel,  weighing 
7,  6^  and  5  lbs.  respectively. 

Sam.  Tilden  Jackson,  Fisherman. 

Robert  Elliott  and  friend,  visitors  at  Mrs.  LaConte's  Im- 
perial Isle.,  caught  sixteen  Pickerel  and  one  Muscalonge, 

weisihin^  8^  lbs. 

Grin  Lackey,  Fisherman. 

Mr.  Samuel  Sondheim,  of  New  York,  caught  thirty-one 
Black  Bass,  several  weighing  over  4  lbs. 

John  Gibson,  Fisherman. 

Steve.  Griftin,  a  fisherman,  while  trolling  for  Pickerel, 
caught  a  Loon  weighing  22  lbs.  This  is  no  7vj-//  S^tfry — 
"  Phat  Bov." 

W.  F.  Baldwin,  of  New  York,  traveling  for  Waterbury 
Watch  Co.,  caught  twenty-seven  Black  Tiass,  and  a  Pickerel 
weighing  over  11  lbs. 

Alex.  Grhfin,  Fisherman. 

Walter  H.  Grifiin,  Room  clerk  at   the  Thousand   Island 

House,  caught  a  Pickerel  weighing  16  lbs.  within  100  yards 

of  the  hotel. 

Henry  Apple,  Fisherman. 

Mrs.  Dr.  J,  L.  Perry  and  Miss  Noonhauser,  of  Saratoga, 
N.  Y.,  caught  thirteen   Pickerel,  weighing  from  3^  to  8  lbs 

Ans.  Leonard,  Fishcrm:.in. 


^ass,   five 

:rman. 
ack  Basf 
7i  lbs. 
Jiman. 

clock,  of 
vveighing 

rman. 

ite's  Im- 
;calonge, 

rman. 
lirty-one 

rman. 

Pickerel, 
SUny — 

aterbury 
Pickerel 

rman. 

1   Island 
DO  yards 

rman. 

aratoga, 
to  8  lbs 

rm:.in. 


39 

Mr.  \\\  H.  Clark,   of  Nt^xv  \'urk,  caught  fortv-four  Hlack 
Bass  in  five  hours,  weighing  from  i  to  3^  lbs.  each. 

(.'ID.  .Shepherd.  Fisherman. 

A  gentleman  visitor    at    Hayden's    [.land,    caught  seven- 
ty-two Black  Bass,  weighing  76  lbs.,  in  three  hours. 

^\ .  Rooi,  Fisherman. 
Charles  MacEvoy,  Leather  Manufacturer,   of  .Ven-  York 
and  Newark,  N.  J..  (>aught  tlfty-two  Oswego  Bass  weighin.v 
93  ll)s.,  \\\  SIX  hours,  [ulv  Sth.  '       "^ 

Ohforj)  Bkxsox.  Fisherman. 
R.  ]''.  Patton,  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.,  made  a  remarkable 
catch  winch  I  lorgot  to  mention  in  my  notes  ;  ask  him  and 
he  will  tell  his  o^vn  fish  story.  1  have  re-iuested  Kli  Perkms 
to  draw  on  him  for  facts;  they  will  apj.ear  in  the  next  ed- 
ition 01  this  work. 

Mr.  F.  T.  Huntoon,  of  .\ew   Wjrk.   caught   fiftv-one  Os- 
wego Bass  weighing  85  lbs. 

Ohf.  {5f,\sox.  Fisherman. 

Mr  l\jward  Porter,  of  Rochester,  X.  Y..  caught  a  I'ick- 
erel  ^vc;L:nmg  i7ilbs. 

Mr.  j.  n.;prv'  Harper,  of  Harper  Bros.,  caught  in  one  da- 
in  July,  twenty-seven  Dluck  Bass  weighing  61  lbs.;  two 
weighed  9.]  lbs. 

\\'v<Y  Fall,    Fisherman. 

Mrs.  Cliarles  Macluoy,  of  \ew  \ork,  caught  f.jrt\-  fish 
wei;-hmg  75  lbs. 

G.  Bkxsox,  Fisherman. 
I'^r.  C.  A.  Feale.  .:.i  \ew  \'ork.  caught  ei-ht  fish  in  three 
hours,  weighing  22  lbs.  ;  one  Pickerel  weighed  7^  lbs. 

Wn.LLVM  Wellek.  Fisherman. 


40 


J.  M.  Bingham,  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.,  caught  forty-five  Black 
Bass,  weighing  96  lbs.,  in  six  hours. 

Chari.es  Rogers,  Fisherman. 

H.  D.  l^olhemus.  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  caught  thirty  Black 

Bass,  weighing  70  lbs. 

Geo.  Campbell,  Fisherman. 

Mrs.  Frank  Logan,  of  Albany,  N.  Y.,  caught  a  Pickerel 

weighing  8^  lbs.     R.  A.  Livingston,  of  New  York,  caught 

nineteen  Pickerel  ;  fifteen  in  an  hour  ;  weight  of  catch,  60 

lbs. ;  five  weighed  ovc    ,)  lbs. 

West  Fall,  Fisherman. 

Mrs.  A.  N.  Milles,  of  Viv^.oria  Hotel,  New   York,  caught 

four  Black  Bass,  weighing  12  J  lbs. 

Sam.  Tilden  Jackson,  Fisherman. 

Mr.  Sam.  Sondheim   and  friend,  Albert  Kaskel,  of  New 

York,  caught  in  four  days  from  Aug.  20,  three  hundred  and 

forty-seven  Black  Bass,  weighing  from  i  to  4^  lbs. 

John  Gubson,  Fisherman. 

Mrs.  E.  A.  Madan,  of  New  York,  caught  ten  Black  Bass, 
weighing  from  2  to  4^  lbs.,  and  seven  Pickerel. 

Andrew  McCue,  Fisherman. 

Frank  Wisner  and  Brother,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  caught  a 

Bass  weighing  3  lbs.,  and  fifteen  Pickerel;  six  weighed  over 

37  lL>s. 

Willlam  Meeker,  Fisherman. 

Fred.  Smithe  and  Clinton  Hastings,  of  Clinton,  Oneida 
Co.,  N.  Y.,  caught  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  Black 
Bass  In  four  hours,  weighing  from  i  to  3  lbs.  eacli. 

Wn;[.iAM  T.  McCuE,  Fisherman. 

Mr.  J.  W.  Case,  owner  of  Boat-Livery,  who  is  the  best 
boat  l)uilder  at  the  Bay,  also  dealer  in  fishing  tackle,  rented 
a  boat  to  Mr.  Saunders,  wlio  caught  thu'teen  Pickerel  in  two 


41 


Five  Black 

erman. 
irty  Black 

lerman. 
a  Pickerel 
rk,  caught 
catch,  60 

herman. 
rk,  caught 

herman, 
:el,  of  New 
ndred  and 

Ih  erman. 
llack  Bass, 

herman. 
I,  caught  a 
^ghed  over 

1  erman. 
|ii,  Oneida 
ree   Black 

lerman. 

the  best 
le,  rented 
:el  in  two 


hours.  Mr.  Case,  on  a  bet,  took  a  man  in  a  boat  for  one 
hour  and  caught  seven  Pickerel,  the  largest  weighing  4  lbs. 
He  won  the  bet. 

Mr.  H.  Merrell,  of  Montreal,  (firm  of  H.  l\:  H.  Merrell) 
caught  at  Hamilton's  Island,  84  pounds  of  I^ike  and  Pick- 
erel and  four  Bass  weighing  4  lbs.  each ;  fourteen  Pike 
weighed  from  4  to  8  lbs.  each.  Mr.  Merrell  is  considered 
one  of  the  best  fishermen  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

(ien.  Anson  McCook,  M.  C,  of  New  York,  caught  fifteen 

Black  Bass  in  three  hours. 

Henry  Hunt,  Fisherman. 

Little  Julian  Madan,  of  New  York,  caught  a  Pickerel 
weighing  4^  lbs. 

I  am  really  sorry  to  cut  this  subject  short,  but  space 
I)revents  my  giving  any  more  names  and  catches.  The 
largest  fish  caught  during  the  season,  was  a  Muscalonge, 
weighing  53  lbs.,  caught  at  an  island  op])Osite  Gananoque  ; 
the  largest  caught  at  the  Bay,  i8>^-  lbs.  ;  the  largest  Pike,  7^ 
lbs.  ;  the  largest  Pickerel.  18  lbs.,  and  the  largest  Bass.  5^ 
lbs.  Resj)ectfully  yours. 

E.  F.   BABBACrE. 

SOME    OF    THE    OWNERS. 

St.  John's,  five  acres.  Judge  C.  Donohue.  New  York. 

ALmhattan,  five  acres.  Judge  Spencer,  and  J.  L.  Has- 
brouck.  New  York. 

Deshler.  seven  acres,  \V.  G.  Deshler,  Columbus,  O. 

Deer,  twenty-five  acres,  S.  Miller,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Fairy  Land,  seven  acres,  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden, 
Cohunbus,  ( ). 

IMatt.  two  acres,  Sisson  &  Fox,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Brown's,  ten  acres,  S.  G.  Pope,  Alexandria  Bay. 


42 

Pleasant,  three  acres.  Sisson  <S:  Fox,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Pullman's,  three  acres,  George  M.  Pullman.  Chicago,  111. 

Friendly,  three  acres.  A.  B.  Parker  and  Abner  IMellen. 
Jr..  New  York. 

Cherry,  nine  acres,  the  Reverend  George  Rockwell,  Ful- 
ton. X.  V. 

Nobby,  over  three  acres,  H.  R.  Heath,  New  York. 

AVelcome.  three  acres.  S.  G.  Po])e.  Ogdensburg,  N.  Y. 

Florence  Proctor,  one  acre.  E.  R.  Proctor,  Cincinnati,  O. 

Maple,  three  acres.  J.  L.  Hasbrouck,  owner. 

Netts.  one-half  a{-re.  K.  A.  Kollymer.  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Summer  Land,  ten  acres,  the  Reverend  Asa  Saxe,  D.  D., 
Rochester.  N.  Y.;  Al  iion  Gunnison,  D.  D.,  Brooklyn;  and 
Richmond  Fisk,  1).  1).,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

Isle  Imj)erial.  one  acre.  Mrs.  LeCount.  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Bav  Yiew.  one-half  acre.  R.  A.  Livingston,  New  York. 

P'dephant  Rock,  one-fourth  acre,  T.  C.  Crittenden, 
W'atertown.  N.  Y. 

Idlewild.  four  acres.  R.  A.  Packer.  Sayre.  Pa. 

Arcadia  and  Ina.  two  acres,  S.  A.  Bri^iifs.  New  York. 

Sport,  four  acres,  H.  A.  I^xcker,   Mauch  Chunk,  Pa. 

Kit  Grafton,  one-fourth  acre,  Mrs.  S.  L.  George,  Water- 
to  wr,,  N.  Y. 

Island  Mary,  two  acres.  W.  L.  Palmer,  Watertown,  and 
James  ^T.  Browner,  St.  Louis. 

Little  Charm,  one-  ighth  acre,  Mrs.  F.  W.  Barker,  Alex- 
andria Bav. 

Frost,  two-acres.  Mrs.  Sarah  L.  Frost,  \Yatertown. 

Excelsior  Group,  five  acres,  C.  S.  Goodwin,  Oneida, 
New  \'ork. 

Resort,  three  acres.  Pioneer  Club.  Watertown. 


43 


3ay. 

ago,  111. 
Mellen, 

ell,  Ful- 

■k. 

N.  Y. 
iiiati,  C). 

N.  Y. 
£,  D.  D., 
lyn;  and 

)hia,  Pa. 

York. 

ttenden, 


ork. 
Pa. 
.  Water- 

l^vn,  and 

tr,  Alex- 

1. 
Oneida, 


Devil's  Oven,  one-fourth  acre,  has  been  fitted  up  with  an 
observatory.  H.  R.  Heath.  New  York. 

Sylvan  and  Moss,  three  acres,   S.  T.  Woolw(^rth,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Cuba,  five  acres,  W".  F.  Storey.  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Ivittle  Angell.  one-eiglith  acre.  W.  A.  Angell.  Chicago. 

Little  Lehigh,  one  acre.  Col.  R.  B.  Vates,  Rochester,  and 
C.  H.  Cumniings,  New  York. 

Warner's,  tour  acres. 

Island  Home,  one  acre.  S.  I^.  Hungerford,  Adams,  N.  Y. 

Sunny  Side,    one   acre,   Mrs.    Emily   Moak,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Wild  Rose,  one  acre,  W.  G.  Roe,  Cleve  and,  Ohio. 

No  name,  one(.|uarter  acre,  Mrs.  F.  Hainmerkin,  Syra- 
cuse, N.  Y. 

Harmony,  one-quarter  acre,  Mrs.  Celia  Berger,  Syracuse, 
N.  Y. 

Wymista\',  one  acre,  Mrs.  Bergin,  of  Spuyten-Duyvel, 
N.  Y. 

Alice  Isle,  two  acres,  J.  (r.  Hill,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Sunbeam  (rn.)up.  one  acre,  C.  F.  Ailing,  Rochester.  N.  Y. 

Walton,  two  acres,  Mrs.  Robins,  and  Mrs.  Robinson,  of 
New  \'ork  and  Brooklyn,  purchased  in  18S3,  will  be  im- 
proved by  all  the  art  at  their  command. 

Bula  Yista.  Lodge  Keepler  Point,  owned  by  Mr.  Bos- 
worth,  of  \rilwaukee.  Wis. 

Seven  Sister  Isles,  owned  by  Dr.  Winston,  of  Washington, 
D.  C. 

Comfort,  formerly  Pratt  and  Centennial,  owned  by  A.  E. 
Clark,  of  Chicago  Produce  Exchange,  who  has  spent 
$20,000  upon  the  sjjot  to  beautify  it. 


iii  ^^ 


44 

Deer  Island,  owned  by  Hon.  Sam.  Miller,  of  New  Haven, 
Conn.,  formerly  of  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Melrose  Lodge,  owned  by  Mrs.  A.  B.  Pullman  and  Mrs. 
C.  B.  Marsh. 

Florance  Island,  owned  by  H.  S.  Chandler,  of  the  Inde- 
pendent. 

'I\vo-Islands-in-Eel-Bay,  two  acres,  E.  L.  Sargent,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Long  Branch,  ten  acres.  Mrs.  C.  E.  Clark,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Nigger,  three  acres,  Eugene  Robinson,  of  New  York. 

Ella,  one-quarter  acre,  R.  E.  Hungerford,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Lookout,  two  acres.  Thomas  H.  Borden,  New  York. 

Grinnell  Island,  two  acres,  I).  G.  Grinnell,  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y. 

Douglass,  three  acres,  Douglass  Miller,  New  Haven, 
Conn. 

Hart's,  five  acres,  E.  Kirke  Hart,  Albion,  N.  Y. 

Sunny-Side,  two  acres.  Wm.  Stickenson,  Sayre,  Pa. 

Wan  Winnett,  two  acres,  Mr.  Hill,  Chicago,  111. 


WESTMINSTER     PARK. 

(Jpposide  the  I'housand  Island  House,  is  Westminster 
Park,  on  the  lower  end  of  Wells  Island.  It  is  eight 
miles  long  and  from  three  to  four  miles  wide.  On  the  other 
side  of  it  is  the  Canadian  channel  of  the  river,  about  half  a 
mile  wide.  The  lower  end  of  the  Island  is  separated  into 
two  parts  by  one  of  the  i)rettiest  sheets  of  water  that  ever 
rippled  against  the  bows  of  a  canoe.  This  is  called  the 
"'Lake  of  the  Island."  and  it  is  connected  with  the  river,  on 
both  the  American  and  Canadian  sides,  by  a  narrow  chan- 


.^i 


45 


Haven, 

id  Mrs. 

s  Inde- 

Water- 

r 

ertown, 

ork. 
:ertown, 

3rk. 
rooklyn, 

Haven, 


nel.  The  Lake  is  five  or  six  miles  long,  as  smooth  as  glass, 
and  is  altogether  too  j)retty  and  too  romantic  to  attempt  to 
describe. 

Westminster  Park  was  bought  in  1874  by  a  Presbyterian 
stock  company,  and  it  now  has  about  15  miles  of  drives 
and  some  fine  buildin<j;s.  It  has  two  lonijf  water  fronts — one 
on  the  American  side  of  the  river,  and  the  other  on  the 
Lake  of  the  Island,  on  the  Canadian  side,  there  is  a  high 
hill  on  the  island  called  Mount  Beulah.  though  after  climb- 
nig  it  I  think  the  Hill  Difficulty  would  be  a  more  appro- 
priate name.  There  is  a  large  chapel  on  the  to])  of  the 
hill,  known  as  Bethune  , Chapel,  with  seating  accommoda- 
tions for  a  thousand  persons,  and  with  a  tower  136  feet 
high,  aftbrdmg  a  beautiful  view  of  the  river  and  the  islands. 
The  name  of  the  chapel  recalls  the  fact  that  the  la^e  Rev. 
Dr.  Geo.  W.  Bethune  was  the  pioneer  tourist  through  this 
region,  and  till  his  death  continued  to  come  here  summer 
after  summer  for  recreation. 


'a. 


BONNIE  CASTLE. 


tminster 
Is  eight 
lie  other 
It  half  a 
[ed  into 
kt  ever 
jled  the 
liver,  on 
chan- 


"  Timothy  Titcomb"  (Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  editor  of 
Scribner's  Monthly.)  chose  this  j)oint  as  a  haven  of  rest 
and  recuperation,  and  who  does  not  commend  his  choice. 
It  will  l)e  remembered  that  he  died  in  New  York  shortly 
after  leaving  his  cherished  Bonnie  Castle  in  18S1  for  his 
ardous  winter's  labors.     Light  house  in  the  distance. 

Immediately  opposite  is  Hart's  island,  back  of  which  is 
Deshler.  Next  on  the  left  is  Manhattan,  the  first  island  on 
which  habitation  was  attempted. 


4"^ 


46 

SETH  GREEN, 

wid<;ly  known  as  the  fish  commissioner  op-tlie  State  of  New 
York,  built  a  cottage  in  1855,  wliere  his  family  summered 
and  he  went  a  fishing  for  several  seasons,  and  it  is  a  very 
])robable  sLip]wsition  that  here  he  acquired,  a  part  at  least, 
of  the  skill  in  fish-ology  which  has  since  become  so  cele- 
brated and  useful.  .>ranhattan  island  is  now  owned  by 
Judge  J.  C.  Spencer,  of  New  York. 

Between  Deshler  and  Manhattan,  looking  backward,  is 
P^airyland.  owned  by  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden,  of  Colum- 
bus, O.  This  is  really  one  of  the  finest  islands  in  the  river. 
At  a  vast  ex|)ense  art  has  trium])hed  over  nature,  trans- 
forming a  barren  into  the  loveliest  of  green  lawns.  Next  on 
the  left  is  I  )eer  island  ;  then 

SUMMERLAND. 


Summerland,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  ''  Thou- 
sand Islands  "  is  located  mid-way  between  the  north  and 
south  channels  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  three  miles  be- 
low Alexandria  Bay,  having  an  area  of  fourteen  acres  and 
is  the  largest  of  the  "'  Summerland  group,"  w^hich  includes 
"Idlewiki,"  -^  Sport."  "Ida"  and  '"Arcadia."  The  island 
is  covered  with  a  dense  forest  furnishinu;  an  abundance  of 
shade  and  will  be  said  to  have  the  Unest  groves  on  the 
river.  At  the  extreme  northerly  and  southerly  ends  of  the 
island  there  are  extensive  sandy  beaches,  a  great  rarity  in 
this  locality,  which  are  used  by  the  "  Summerlanders  "  for 
bathing  purj^oses.  The  island  is  traversed  from  end  to  end 
bv  a  most  delightful  natural  avenue,  denselv  shaded  and 
lined  on  either  side  with  a  thick  undergrowth  of  wild 
tiowers  and  ferns.     The  island  is  owned  by  the  Summerland 


47 


f  New 
mered 
a  very 
:  least, 
)  cele- 
led  by 

ard.  is 
Jolum- 
e  river. 
,  trans- 
Jext  on 


rhou- 
th   and 
lies  l)e- 
es  and 
n  dudes 
I  islaiul 
lince  of 
on   the 
,  of  the 
arity  in 
rs  "'  for 
to  end 
ed  and 
of  wild 
nerland 


.Vsfiociation.  a  corporation  ori^anized  under  and  l)y  \  irtue 
v)f  the  laws  of  the  State  of  \e\v  York,  for  social  and 
yachting  purposes,  and  conii)osed  of  the  following  stock- 
holders :  Rev,  Asa  Saxe.  1).  I)..  Isaiah  F.  P'orce.  James 
Sargent.  Sears  K.  Brace.  Kmory  B.  Chase,  Henry  C.  W'is- 
ner.  Lewis  P.  Ross.  Francis  M.  Mcl'^arlin.  Chas.  W.  (rray. 
George  H.  Newell.  Henry  O.  Hall,  Josej^h  A.  Stull  and 
Frank  \V.  Havvley  of  Rochester,  N.  V.  ;  Re\-.  Richmond 
Fisk,  I).  D..  Alfred  Underhill  and  Horace  Bronson,  of 
Svracuse.  N.  Y.  Rev.  Almond  Ounnison,  1).  I).,  and 
Frank  Sperry.  of  Brooklyn.  N.  V.  'i'he  association  have 
erected  upon  the  island  a  large  and  commodious  '•  Club 
House  "  wherein  the  members  of  the  association  and  their 
families  take  their  meals. 

\fter  setting  apart  a  large  grove  at  each  end  of  the  island 
for  general  use,  the  balance  of  the  island  was  divided  into 
lots,  one  of  which  was  assigned  to  each  stockholder.  Upon 
these  lots  so  assigned,  the  nieml)ers  of  the  association  have 
erected  cottages  for  the  sole  use  of  their  own  families. 

In  addition  to  the  Club  House  the  association  has  erected 
numerous  pavilions  and  summer  houses  in  different  ])arts  of 
the  island,  together  with  a  large  ice-house  and  has  construct- 
ed several  docks  of  sufficient  size  to  jjermit  of  the  1, rul- 
ing of  large  steamers. 

The  association  owns  a  large  steam  vacht  which  is  used 
in  runniuL'  to  and  from  Alexandria  iiav  and  for  fishing  and 
pleasure  excursions. 

Each  member  of  the  association  ])rovides  himself  with 
sailing  and  row  l)oats.  The  Club  house  is  o))ened  for  the 
rece])tion  of  the  meml^ers  of  the  association   and  their  im- 


f 


48 

mediate  tainilies  (w/y.  on  the  first  day  of  J  Lily  of  each  year, 
and  remains  oi)cn  until  about  September  15th,  during  all 
of  which  time  the  yacht  is  at  the  service  of  the  party. 

Between  Deer  island  and  Summerland  is  Cedar;  back  of 
Cedar  is  Sport,  owned  by  H.  A.  I 'acker,  who  died  in  1884. 
'Hie  island,  however,  will  be  occupied  this  year  by  H.  C. 
Wilbur,  (r.  H.  I.inderman,  C.  B.  Newton,  and  other  friends. 
Anthony  i)oint  is  on  the  right.  This  place  is  the  resort  of 
K.  and  T.  H.  Anthony,  the  extensive  dealers  in  photogra- 
phic goods  in  N'ew  York. 

APING    CUSTOMS,    MANNERS,    ETC.,   OF 

THE    ENGLISH. 

This  is  done  to  a  great  extent,  not  only  in  Canada,  but 
I  am  sorry  to  say  in  free  America,  better  known  as  the  U.  S. 
I  cannot  find  any  fault  with  the  average  Canadian  who  is 
as  it  were  governed  by  Queen  Victoria,  and  must  have 
some  reverence  for  royalty  in  the  aping  of  their  manners 
and  customs,  but  in  this  land  where  we  have  an  abundance 
of  Queens,  Princes,  Lords  and  Sovereigns,  w'ho  are  not 
fiattered  by  titles,  but  bear  their  honors  meekly,  all  are 
royal  born  and  bred.  Speaking  of  titles  reminds  me  that 
at  home  I  am  plain  Edward  F.  Babbage,  or  "  Phat  Boy," 
(  1  spell  it  with  'Ph'  because  it  does  not  sound  so  greasy.) 
but  the  moment  I  leave  home,  say  for  a  trip  through  the 
South,  I  am  called  Captain  for  the  first  few  hundred  miles, 
then  a  httle  way  on  it  becomes  Colonel,  and  when  I  get  to 
Georgia  it  is  Major,  in  South  Carolina  it  is  Judge  or 
General,  until  I  get  to  Florida,  and  1  have  heard  them  say 
tliere  "  great  God  is  that  you  ?"  but  we  diverge  returning 
to  the  aping  of  the  manners   of  Princess    Louise.     I  wish 


49 


:h  year, 
ring  all 

y- 

hack  of 
ill  1884. 
y  H.  C. 
friends, 
resort  of 
hotogra- 


C,  OF 


iiada,  but 
theU.  S. 
11   who  is 
lUSt  have 
manners 
undance 
are  not 
,   all  are 
me  that 
hat  Boy," 
greasy, ) 
ough  the 
ed  miles. 
h  I  get  to 
Judge    or 
them  say 
returning; 
ie.     I  wish 


to  say  right  iiere  that  1  firmly  bcH<.ne  it  ch'd  the  Canachan 
people  a  great  amount  of  good,  but  fail  to  see  where  the 
})eoi)le  of  the  United  States  could  be  benefitted.  1  was  told 
that  at  IviuLrston  the  I'rincess  asked  for  her  strawberries  in  a 

i,x  with  the  hulls  on,  and  when  placed  before  her  she  took 
them  up  by  the  stem  between  the  thumb  and  finger  and  bit 
the  berry  off  and  ])laced  the  hull  on  the  plate.  .Vow  every- 
body does  the  same  ;  previous  to  her  visit  they  used  to  hull  and 
wash  them  before  j)lacing  them  on  the  table.  The  same 
with  grapes,  they  used  to  wash  them  in  a  goblet  of  water 
at  the  table  before  eating  them,  now  they  take  the  grai)e 
between  the  thumb  and  finger,  press  it  gently  to  the  lips 
and  sc^ueeze  gently,  and  juice  as  well  as  insides  are 
soon    on    the    way    to    digestion,    and   the   skm   laid   away 

n  the  plate  as  the  Princess  did.  Asparagus,  it  was  almost 
gainful  for  me  to  see  Canadians  eat  it  in  as  many  ways  as 
there  were  |)eople  at  the  table,  in  fact  no  two  ate  it  alike 
mitil  after  the  Princess  came;  now  everybody  takes  it  by 
the  hard  green  end,  between  thumb  and  finger,  and  putting 
it  into  the  mouth  closes  the  teeth  down  upon  it  and  draws 
it  gently  from  the  mouth,  leaving  all  that  is  digestible  within 
and  the  remainder  is  laid  on  the  i)late.  The  Princess  once 
took  a  walk  through  her  kitchen  at  Rideau  Hall.  Ottawa, 
took  the  vegetable  cook  to  task  for  washing  fresh  picked 
peas  from  the  vine  that  had  just  been  shelled,  saying,  it  was 
nonsense,  if  your  hands  were  clean,  to  wash  a  virgin  pea. 

YACHTING. 

Water— and  as  one  enthusiastic  writer  puts  it — such 
water  I — is  abundant,  and  to  enjoy  this  water  in  a  pensive 
or  poetic  mood,  the  steam  yacht  should  be  brought  into 
requisition.     Private  yachts  are  numerous  and  elegant,  and 


'I  m 


50 

it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  owners  that  they  are  not  niggardlv 
in  exhibiting  a  spirit  of  generosity  and  courtesy.  The) 
are  constantly  inviting  individuals  and  ])arties  to  enjoy  tlic 
exhilerating  excitement  of  the  shooting  around  the  beauti- 
ful si)ots.  And  if  you.  dear  tourist,  have  no  friend  that 
invites  you  to  sh-ire  a  cushioned  seat  in  his  graceful  fairy- 
like craft,  then  go  to  Capt.  E.  W.  \'isger.  on  the  Islatui 
Wanderer.  He  will  take  vou  on  an  excursion  among  the 
islands  that  vou  will  ^dadlv  recall  as  a  cheerful  reminiscence 
of  your  St.  Lawrence  excursion,  for  the  oi)portunity  will 
have  l)eeii  oftered  t;j  brinij;  within  the  raniie  of  vour  vision 
enchanting  scenes  that  Den  is  not  adecpiate  to  describe,  but 
l)y  purchasing  one  (^f  the  "  Phat  Boys"  Birdseye  Majjs  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  you  will  be  the  possessor  of  the  only  cor- 
rect map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  guide  to  the  river. 

Still  continuiuii  our  course,  lookinsi  to  the  ri^ht.  is  the 
cottage  of  Mrs.  Clark,  of  Watertown.  Next,  Goose  bay 
is  the  island  owned  l)y  Dr.  Carleton,  near  which  is  the 
Three  Sisters  Islarid  ;  before  the  j'hree  Sister's  is  Hume's 
Island,  and  another  was  pnrcliased  b}'  Judge  Donahue,  of 
New  York,  and  se\enty-tive  thousand  dollars  Si)eut  tVicreon, 
Next  on  the  left  is  Winske}-  Island,  and  on  the  right  o])])o- 
site  are  a  number  of  large  and  small  islands,  the  names  (u' 
which  we  will  not  weary  the  tourist's  brain  with. 

Goose  bav  is  realh-  beautiful,  if  its  name  is  slicjhtlv 
homeh.  It  is  studded  with  islands,  and  fishing  abounds 
It  was  here  that  Mr.  Hub  Clark,  of  New  York,  in  one  day 
caught  some  :;oo  iiounds  of  black  bass,  ramiini^  in  weight 
from  \\  pounds  to  6.V  pounds.  On  the  right  is  Lyon"^ 
dock  and  Meeker's  island.  Next  on  the  left  is  Three  Sis- 
ters light;  in  the  tlistance  is  Lone  Star  or  Dark  Island: 
Island  No.  i.  it  is  called  In-  some.     After  passing  on  the  le 't 


nigii;ardlv 
.y.  The} 
enjoy  tlie 
he  beauri- 
lend  thai 
:eful  fairy - 
he  Islauil 
,mong  the 
niuiscence 

tiinity  will 
:our  vision 
scribe,  but 
s  Ma])s  of 
e  only  cor- 
ver. 

io;ht.  is  the 
ioose  bay 
lich  is  the 
is  HuuK^'s 
nahue.  of 
It  thcreoii. 
ight  op|i(>- 
names  oi 

is  sliirhtlv 
abound^. 

In  one  day 
in  weiglit 
is    Lyon'^ 

iThree  Sis- 
iv  Island  : 

Ion  the  kit 


is  a  small  cluster  of  island  shoals.  On  the  right  is  Chip- 
pewa l)ay.  This  is  a  superb  sheet  of  water,  where  the 
fishing  is  a  marked  feature.  U  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
Ogdensburg  i)eople,  who  occui)y  the  contiguous  islands. 
All  around  the  shore  are  cam])s,  cottages,  etc.,  and  make 
an  animated  scene  for  the  touri.st.  Three  miles  from  Chip- 
pewa l)ay  on  the  left  is  Crossover  light  ;  thence  three  miles 
to  Cole's  lif^iit  on  the  left,  where  we  enter  the  Canadian 
channel.  Xine  miles  in  the  distance  is  Brockville.  On  the 
right  opposite  Cole's  light  is  Oak  i)oint.  Four  miles  below 
is  Fisher's  landing,  a  very  jjopular  place  for  picnics,  etc. 
On  the  left  a  i»roniinent  bluff.  On  the  right  for  six  miles 
the  islands  come  thick  and  fast  ;  huge  rocks  rise  fron.  the 
water's  surface,  with  very  little  vegetation  or  foliage,  and 
the  boat  makes  her  way  rapidly  among  them,  winding 
around  like  a  snake,  heading  for  all  the  points  of  the  com- 
pass, freipiently  getting  herself  into  coves  and  bays  that  a))- 
parently  have  no  outlet,  but  always  finding  a  channel,  antl 
sailing  triumphantly  out  into  the  Inroad  waters  :.gain. 

On  the  left  three  miles  this  side  of  Brock\'lle,  is  the  wreck 
of  a  schooner,  the  S.  M.  Cook,  laden  with  iron  ore.  She 
was  sailing  up  ;  die  wind  subsidetl.  causing  her  to  drift  u])on 
the  ro(^ks.  and  remained  ;  also  St.  Lawrence  park,  used  for 
pleasure  and  |)icnic  parties,  especially  by  our  Catiadian 
friends  of  l)rockville.  \\'e  are  now  at  the  village  of  Brock- 
ville ;  we  "  take  a  rest  "  for  route  C. 

In  front  of  Brockville  are  the  last  three  of  the  Thousand 
Islands  ;  being  some  distance  from  the  rest  it  is  presumal)le 
the\  drifted  away,  and  finally  ro(jted  here.  'I'his,  however, 
was  "Tong  bcfv)  de  wah  I  " 


n^-H 


52 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Morristown,  a  small,  lively 
American  village,  of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  a  station  on 
the  TJtica  and  Black  River  R.  R. ;  connects  with  Brockville 
by  two  steam  ferries. 


all,  lively 
itation  on 
3rockville 


:>6 


R 


OUTE 


c. 


Our  object  being  to  make  this  little  book  a  complete 
Guide  to  the  Thousand  Islands,  so  that  tourists  from  any 
section,  no  matter  where  he  strikes,  will  find  it  intelligible 
to  learn  his  location.  We  have  therefore  divided  the  ex- 
planation into  three  routes.  First,  we  took  our  friends  from 
New  York  to  Niagara  Falls  through  Toronto,  Kingston,  and 
the  Canada  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  Brockville. 
Second,  our  journey  was  from  Gananoijue,  thence  down  the 
St.  I^awrence  through  the  American  channel  to  Brockville. 
Third,  and  this  is  the  route  upon  which  we  are  now  entering, 
will  be  from  Cape  Vincent  to  Alexandria  Bay. 

CAPE  VINCENT, 

is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  Jellerson  county.  N.  Y.,  at  the 
junction  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  river.  It  is 
also  the  terminus  of  the  Rome,  A\'aterlo\vn  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad,  and  connections  by  steamer  are  made  to  Alexan- 
dria Bay. 

As  we  steam  out  of  this  port,  on  the  left  is  Long,  or 
Wolf  island,  21  miles  in  length,  and  7  miles  in  width.  The 
i:'.ext  on  the  right  is 


54 


CARLETON    ISLAND. 

At  the  ii])per  extremity,  the  land  narrows  into  a  rugged 
promontory,  ending  in  a  blutf  sixty  feet  in  height.  Here 
lifting  their  ruined  heads  aloft,  and  plainly  visible  to  all 
passers  along  the  river,  stand  a  number  of  toppling  and 
half  ruined  chimneys.  These  may  be  seen  for  miles 
around.  So  long  have  these  old  sentinels  watched  over 
the  scenes  around  them  that  their  history  is  lost  in  the 
misty  past.  Around  them  are  the  remaining  ruins  of  an 
old  fort,  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  ruins  of  old  Fort 
Frontenac.  Around  its  old  redoubts  and  parapets  linger 
antiquated  historical  legends  and  traditions  enough  to  fill  a 
\olume  and  forming  an  mteresting  study.  An  ancient 
well,  cut  in  the  solid  Trenton  limestone  down  to  the  level 
of  the  lake,  has  been  converted  by  the  reckless  imaginations 
of  the  natives  into  a  receptacle  of  the  golden  doubloons 
which  the  French  soldiers,  upon  evacuating  the  old  fort, 
are  said  to  have  thrown  there,  with  the  brass  guns  on  toj) 
of  them.  Upon  either  side,  and  immediately  in  front  of 
the  bluff  upon  which  the  old  fort  stands,  is  a  quiet,  pretty 
little  bay,  which  may  once  have  supplied  a  safe  and  eas\- 
anchorage  for  the  vessels  that  lay  under  its  protecting  guns. 

The  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  importance 
as  a  military  post  at  some  time,  having  been  built  upon  an 
excellent  plan  and  in  the  most  substantial  nianner.  Num- 
bers of  graves  still  occupy  a  field  near  by,  the  remains  o\ 
the  brave  soldiers  who  once  occupied  the  fort.  Th^-  scene 
is  of  deep  interest  to  the  students  of  history. 

About  six  miles  this  side  of  Clayton  is  Lindsay  island 
the  only  one  on  the  right  between  Cape  Vincent  and  Cla\- 
ton.     On   the  left,  two   miles   before  reaching  Clayton,  is 


w| 

o' 

cl| 

hil 

C£ 


55 


)  a  rugged 
lit.  Here 
ble  to  all 
pling  and 
for  miles 
ched  over 
3St  in  the 
-lins  of  an 

old  Fort 
ets  linger 
h  to  fill  a 
1  ancient 
•  the  level 
as^inations 
loubloons 

old  fort, 
IS  on  to]) 
front  of 

et,  pretty 

and  eas\- 
ting  guns. 

iportance 
[Upon  an 
Num- 
imains  oi 
ll""^^'  scene 

ly  island. 

|nd  Cla\  - 

lyton,   is 


Grindstone  island,  five  miles  long.  Cross-over  channel  is 
where  the  Canadian  line  of  steamers,  leaving  Kingston  at  5 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  comes  through  into  the  American 
channel.  Bet'ore  landing  at  Clayton  is  Prospect  ])ark  and 
hill,  which  has  been  systematically  laid  out  for  villas  and 
camping  parties,  and  where  tourists  can  always  find  a  com- 
fortable stopi)ing  place.  Although  we  have  been  traveling 
among  the  islands  cjuite  early  in  the  morning,  we  have  no- 
ticed that  the  people  who  occu])y  the  cottages  are  all  up, 
the  ladies  sitting  on  the  piazzas  reading,  generally,  and  the 
gentlemen  out  in  small  boats  fishing.  There  are  two  kinds 
of  fishing  done  here — fishing  for  fun  and  fishing  for  fish.  1 
cannot  explain  the  distinction  better  than  to  repeat  what  a 
gentleman  who  was  traveling  with  the  i)arty,  said  to  me 
one  afternoon.  '•  We  are  going  to  take  the  ladies  out  fish- 
ing to-morrow/'  he  said,  ''  to  give  them  a  taste  of  the  sj)ort. 
Then,  the  next  day,  we  are  going  out  alone  to  catch  some 
fish." 

FROM    BROCKVILLE  TO  MONTREAL. 

Leaviiig  Brockville.  a  magnificent  view  greets  the  eye  ; 
islands  are  not  now  in  view  ;  the  river  is  a  most  lieautiful 
sheet  of  water  running  perfectly  straight  for  about  sixteen 
miles  with  the  land  on  either  side  in  good  view,  for  the 
river  is  a  little  over  two  miles  wide.  Three  miles  from 
Morristown.  on  the  right,  is  the  camp  ground  of  the  Baptist 
persuasion,  mostly  from  wSt.  Lawrence  county.  Five  miles 
on  the  let't  from  Brockville  is  Maitland.  At  this  ])oint  is  a 
prominent  object  known  as  the  old  distillerv.  whose  proprie- 
tor is  said  to  have  been  worth,  at  one  time,  a  million  dol- 
lars, but  whose  cu])idity  during  '•  America's  unpleasantness  " 
led  him  into  selling  "crooked  whiskey,"  or  rather  dis|)osing 


56 


of  Ivs  distillery  products  in  a  very  "  crooked  way."  With- 
out giving  the  details,  the  facts  in  brief  are :  He  antagon- 
ized the  Canadian  government  in  the  matter  of  paying 
revenue,  and  in  his  fight  for  stupid  supremacy,  he  not  only 
lost  his  distillery,  but  his  fortune,  too,  and  he  and  his 
family  became  reduced  to  poverty,  and  none  of  them  re- 
main around  their  former  home.  It  is  said  he  first  induced 
his  niece  to  marry  the  revenue  collector  of  the  district,  that 
he  might  carry  on  the  nefarious  business  in  collusion  and 
without  detection,  but  you  see, 

"  The  deep  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men  gang  aft  aglee." 

About  four  miles  below,  on  the  left,  is  the  old  blue  stone 
church,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  rests  the  remains  of  the 
founder  of  Methodism  on  this  continent,  Barbara  Heck. 
One  mile  below  is  Prescott.  One  mile  farther,  on  the  left, 
is  McCarthy's  new  brick  brewery.  Half  a  mile  beyond  is 
the  celebrated  Rysdick  stock  farm,  owned  by  Hon.  J.  P. 
Weiser,  M.  P.  Here  is  owned  the  celebrated  stallion, 
Rysdick,  which  cost  Mr.  Weiser  $25,000,  It  is  a  farm  of 
about  600  acres,  and  is  unquestionably  the  finest  stock 
farm  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  The  thrift,  energy  and 
ability  of  this  gentleman  will  not  be  wondered  at  when  it  is 
learned  that  he  is  of  American  l)irth.  Next  on  the  left  is 
the  celebrated  Labatt's  brewery  and  Prescott,  with  its 
3,000  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  have  lost  their  grip  on  the 
trade  of  the  river,  judging  from  the  dilapidated  condition  of 
the  stores,  warehouses,  etc.,  on  the  wharves.  The  town, 
however,  is  handsomely  laid  out,  has  a  fine  city  hall  and 
market,  and  there  are  many  fine  private  residences.  It  is 
connected  with  Ottawa,  capital  of  the  Dominion,  by  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  distance  54  miles.  Here 
many  tourists  who  desire  to  visit  the  capital  disembark  for 


57 


"     With- 

antagon- 

of  paying 

not  only 

and   his 

them  re- 

it  induced 

jtrict,  that 

usion  and 


blue  stone 
,ins  of  the 
ira   Heck. 
a  the  left, 
beyond  is 
on.  J.  P. 
stallion, 
a  farm  of 
lest  stock 
nergy  and 
when  it  is 
he  left  is 
with    its 
ip  on  the 
ndition  of 
The  town, 
hall  and 
es.     It  is 
by  the  St. 
Here 


that  purpose.  \Ve  refer  the  tourist  to  Daniel's  Hotel  as  a 
good  stoi)ping  place.  L.  H.  J)aniels  has  taken  the  hotel, 
and  s])ent  $8,000  in  improvements;  he  is  too  well  known 
to  the  traveling  public  to  need  any  praise  from  me.  Ojijio- 
site  is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded  by  Francis  Picquit  in  May,  1749.  It  now  contains 
about  10,000  ])eople,  and  of  course  ranks  as  a  city.  It  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Rome  &  Watertown,  Utica  cS:  Black 
River,  and  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Cham])lain  Railroads. 
It  is  beautifully  laid  out,  well  planted  with  maple  trees,  and 
is  called  the  "Maple  City."  It  has  a  United  States  Cus- 
tom House,  post-office,  and  a  new  ojjera  house,  costing 
$150,000,  six  fine  church  edifices,  water  works,  gas  works, 
a  fire  alarm  telegraph  and  two  daily  news])apers,  and  possi- 
bly other  modern  improvements.  At  the  lower  end  of  town 
is  tlie  big  elevator  of  the  Ogdensburg  (I^  Lake  Champlain 
Railroad. 

One  mile  and  a  half  l)elow  Prescolt,  on  the  left,  is  Wind- 
mill point;  the  old  windmill  has  been  turned  into  a  light- 
house. Here,  in  1837,  the  ''Patriots."  under  \'on  Shultz, 
a  Polish  exile,  established  themselves,  but  from  which  they 
were  driven  with  severe  loss.  We  believe  this  Yon  Shultz 
was  subse([uently  hung  by  the  Canadian  auihorities,  and 
his  followers  banished,  probably  to  New  Jersey.  On  the 
left,  a  little  below  the  light  house,  is  the  residence  and  farm 
of  W.  H.  McCrannon.  the  oldest  ])ilot  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
river,  the  man  who  first  took  the  passjiort  of  tne  Riclielieu 
line  down  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  in  July.  1847.  I  am 
also  indel)ted  to  him  for  the  correctnes  of  my  New  Maj)  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  other  info'-nuition  of  benefit   to  me 


ibark  for        ^^'^  ^^'^  P^^^^^^- 


!      .    1' 


58 

TlinM,-  niilc:.  Ix-low.  on  the  left,  is  Johnstown  Bay.  with 
fohnstovvu  -Dot  n  very  irnjj^jrtant  trading  post — overlook- 
ing. 'I'liif,  pl.'K  <;  has  a  custom  hf)use  otficer,  commissioner 
of  fisheries,  mayor  and  marshal  of  the  district  ;  but  these 
imporiaiil  olficials  are  concentrated  in  one  man,  Hon.  J. 
T.  Mooney. 

We  turn  here  to  the  rigiit.  leaving  the  far-famed  Chim- 
nev  island  on  the  left,  on  which  are  said  to  be  the  ruins  of 
old  i'Vench  forts,  battlements,  etc.  The  only  remains  we 
jiavf  <lis( oveied  of  these  supposed  formidable  defences  is  an 
extensive  nioat  around  the  island,  twelve  feet  deep,  filled 
with  water.  'I'he  chimney,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 
is  supposed  to  be  on  the  island,  but  we  have  looked  in  vain 
to  discover  it.  It  may  be,  however,  that  it  has  tioated  down 
the  ri\er ;  we  will  speak  of  it  further  on. 

in  the  distance,  on  the  left,  are  Tick,  or  Pier  islands. 
Some  ot"  the  tniest  bass  t'lshing  in  the  river  is  otT  this  old 
pier.  Or.  Melville,  o(  Prescott,  the  inventor  of  rheumatic 
Mctor,  and  an  enthusiastic  tisherman  of  this  section,  last 
sunuuer  caught  a  black  bass  weighing  seven  and  one-hali 
pounds,  while  enjoying  the  sport  around  the  pier. 

Thiee  miles  tVom  L'hinniey  island,  in  the  distance,  is  what 
is  icriued  "  the  cnii."  torming  tlie  channel  between  Galop 
and  Moore's  islands.  It  was  the  tormer  channel  of 
this  line  of  boats,  but  the  l^ominion  government  are  ex- 
pending  six  millions  o\  dollars  for  the  enlargement  of  thc 
canals  o(  this  route,  and  the  survey  ])arty  at  present  are 
bl.istmg  a  channel  thrcnigh  tiie 

GALOP    RAPID, 

which    mav  be  seen   in   the  distance.     The  reason  oi  tiic 
ch.mge  01  channel  is  formedi  witli  an  ed.ict  of  the  pilots  not 


'"SSv 


av.  with 
verlook- 
lissioner 
it  these 
Hon.   J. 

d  Chim- 
ruins  of 
(lains  we 
ices  is  an 
;ep,  filled 
its  name, 
d  in  vain 
ted  down 

islands. 

this  okl 
leumatic 
;ion,   last 

one-hall 

e.  is  what 
en  Gal<'it 
lannel  oi 
it  are  ex- 
'nt  of  the 
esent  are 


)n  OI  v:x 
hilots  not 


59 

to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  engineer  cor])s  engaged  on 
this  necessary  inijjrovenient  of  excavating  a  fifteen  foot 
cliannel,  to  allow  larger  boats  to  |)ass,  and  dispense  with 
the  use  of  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  is  the  first  and 
smallest  rapid  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  as  the  That 
Boy  has  termed  it.  "  a  Httle  one  for  a  cent."  I  will,  how- 
ever, give  you  an  idea  of  what  the  ra})ids  are.  All  the 
rai)ids  on  this  river  are  caused  by  numerous  rocks,  large  and 
small,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the  swift  current  of  water 
passing  over  these  rocks  causes  the  fearful  commotion  that 
you  observe.  Now,  to  carry  our  philosophy  a  little  farther, 
n'e  say  the  larger  the  rocks  and  the  stronger  the  current, 
the  better  the  rapids.  No  rocks,  no  water,  wo  (^urrent.  no 
ra]:)ids  I  This  commotion  which  you  see  here  is  caused  by 
a  ledge  of  rocks  five  and  one-half  feet  in  height  under  nine 
feet  of  water.  Vou  can  see  the  swell  and  wiiite  cap  which 
this  rock  occasions,  and  then  use  your  best  judgment  to 
determine  the  height  of  the  rocks  in  Long  Sault.  where  we 
hope  to  arrive  at  one  o'clock.  (There  are,  let  me  state 
here,  eight  rai)ids  on  our  trij)  to-day,  which  may  be  divided 
into  two  classes,  first  and  second.  The  first  class  are  Long 
Sault,  meaning  a  long  leap  or  jump  ;  Cedar,  deriving  its 
name  from  the  trees  in  the  vicinity,  and  J/achine.  'Hie 
second  class  are  Galop,  meaning  a  hopping.  jum])ing  rapid; 
Rapid  Piatt,  meaning  in  French,  Hat ;  Chateau  du  Lac, 
meaning  foot  of  the  lake  ;  Si)lit  Rock,  derived  from  a  fis- 
sm"e  which  make  the  channel,  and  the  Cascade,  from  its  re- 
semblance to  a  cascade.) 

On  the  lett.  Ijefore  arriving  at  the  Galop  rai)ids,  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  canal  is  se\en 
and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  is  the  first  canal  we  ar- 
rive at ;  its  terminus  is  at  Iro([uois.     It  would    be  well  here 


I«i 


60 


to  say  that  we  only  have  canals  around  the  rapids,  or  where 
the  current  is  too  strong  for  a  steamer  to  ascend.  We  here 
ai)pend  a  tabular  statement  of  the 

ST.  LAWRENCE  CANALS. 

Kdwardslnu-g  canal.  7^  miles  long,  three  locks,  14  feet 
fall  in  the  river ;  Morrisburg  canal,  4  miles  long,  2  locks, 
II  1-6  feet  fall  ;  Farron's  jjoint  canal,  J  miles  long,  i  lock, 
4  feet  fall ;  Cornwall  canal,  12  miles  long,  7  locks,  48  leet 
fall;  Beauharnor's  canal,  11^-  miles  long,  9  locks,  84  feet 
fall  ;  l.achine  canal,  9  miles  long,  5  locks,  45  feet  fall. 

In  the  distance,  in  front,  on  the  left,  is  the  village  of  Ed- 
wardsburg.  now  called  Cardinal.  Here  is  located  the  Ed- 
wardsburg  starch  factory,  the  largest  starch  factory  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  The  ])resident  of  the  company  is 
the  Hon.  Walter  Shanley,  of  Hoosac  Tunnel  fame.  He 
was  the  gieat  contractor  who  completed  that  wonderful 
piece  of  work,  and  is  now  the  manager  o.  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  Ottawa  Railroad. 

Twenty  minutes  from  Kdwardsl)urg  to  the  next  point  of 
interest. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  ELI  PERKINS. 

S(^me  few  years  ago,  Mr.  Perkins  was  a  passenger  on  one 
of  the  boats.  I  do  not  know  whether  he  took  me  for  the 
cai)tain,  director  or  manager  of  the  line  or  not.  but  he  ex- 
erted himself  considerably  to  form  my  acquaintance. 
There  was  nothing  unusual  about  that,  however,  as  there  is 
some  thing  ''  i/isfingiw  "  about  me,  and  when  on  the  boat  I 
stand  considerable  *•  above  proof."  I  have  frequently  dined 
at  the  same  table  with  the  Governor-General.  Lord  Dufterin 


6i 


'  of  Ed- 
the  p:d- 
y  in  the 
pany  is 
e.  He 
nderful 
wrence 

pint  of 

:ns. 

»i  one 
lor  the 
|e  ex- 
tance. 
lere  is 
pat  I 
[hned 
ferin 


and  retinue — after  his  lordshij)  had  left.  But  to  return  to 
Kli.  The  day  in  question  I  was  ui)on  the  deck  of  the  boat 
as  usual,  describing  the  points  of  interest,  especially  the  one 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  where  the  St.  Regis  Indians  come 
vcar  after  year  to  gather  the  famous  elm  with  which  to  make 
tlicir  celebrated  baskets.  I  was  delineating  at  some  length 
u[)on  the  noble  red-man,  when  Eli  came  to  me  and  said, 
I  will  write  you  a  verse  of  poetry  about  that.  Glad  to  get 
a  memento  in  that  shape  from  so  distinguished  an  individ- 
ual, who  had  been  so  often  accused  of  being  witty,  1  said  it 
would  please  me  very  much.      Here  is  the  \erse  : 

•'  Once  heiv  tlie  nol)le  rcil  mau  took  lii.s  <lt'li^'lits. 
P"it.  fished  aud  Ided: 
Now  must  ot'  tlie  iiihahitants  are  white, 
With  nary  a  I'ed." 

I  thanked  him  very  profusely,  and  on  subsecpient  occa- 
sions took  great  delight  in  repeating  the  lines  to  the  pas- 
sengers— never  forgetting  for  a  moment  to  remind  them 
that  they  were  written  for  me  by  the  alleged  American 
humorist.  One  day,  after  delivering  myself  of  the  poetry 
and  repeating  to  the  passengers  that  it  was  written  by  tlie 
celebrated  poet,  writer,  humorist  and  lecturer,  Kli  I'erkins, 
I  was  approached  by  an  exceedingly  polite  and  attal)le  gen- 
tleman, whom  I  learned  was  Mr.  John  M.  Rochester, 
of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who  asked  if  lie  understood  me  cor- 
rectly in  attributing  the  authorship  of  the  lines  (juoted  to 
Mr.  Perkins.  I  assured  him  that  he  had  written  them  ex- 
pressly for  me,  and  produced  in  Eli's  own  handwriting  the 
original  copy.  With  a  subdued  smile  resting  upon  his  coun- 
tenance, Mr.  Rochester  informed  me  that  there  must  lie  an 
error  somewhere,  as  a  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Fletcher,  had  writ- 
ten  a  poem  in  1834,  in  which  the  exact  verse  o(xured,  and 
he  proceeded  to  repeat  the  poem  from  memory.     This  took 


T 


■■■P 


>.- 


62 

me  slightly  back,  and  I  subsequently  came  to  the  conclusion 
with  ••  my  friend  "  of  the  Oil  City  Derrick,  that  a  cabba.ue 
leaf  never  was  more  at  home  than  when  in  the  crown  of 
"  Uli  IV^rkins'  hat."  After  that  I  had  no  more  use  for  the 
])oem.  but  determined  if  I  ever  met  ''  Uli  "  I  should  call  to 
his  mind  the  circumstance  ccMinected  with  "  his  little  poem." 
r  had  not  long  to  wait,  for  oue  day,  while  in  Evansville,  In- 
diana, at  the  St.  George  Hotel.  I  met  the  gentleman  and 
recalled  the  circumstance  connected  with  the  little  verse, 
and  he,  with  a  perfect  air  of  nouchalivice,  said  that  he  had 
never  i2:iven  it  a  thought  since — dashed  it  off  in  '  minute, 
I  told  him  how  remarkable  it  was  that  great  minds  often 
run  in  the  same  channel  and  related  my  experience  with 
his  gem.  He  scowled,  and  turning  on  his  heel  said  it  was 
indeed  a  singular  word  for  word  resemblance,  but  changed 
the  subject  at  once  and  asked  me  to  his  room  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  which  invitation  I  cheerfully  accepted, 
doting  all  the  evening  upon  having  a  nice  time,  and  swoj)- 
ping  a  few  gags,  etc..  etc.,  but  my  hopes  were  blighted,  for 
the  next  morning  I  was  informed  of  his  very  early  departure 
— gone  up  to  lie  to  the  peo[)le  of  Rockport,  I  was  told. 
"  Uli "  is  a  great  man,  and  contracts  a  larger  amount  o; 
business  upon  a  very  small  amount  of  capital  than  any  pub- 
lic character  I  know  of.  AViien  Eli  reads  this  I  expect  b^^ 
will  load  his  big  gun — not  intellectual,  but  otherwise- 
come  for  me.  I  will  therefore  give  him  a  pointer  ii 
vance  ;  there  won't  anything  scare  me  but  a  stomach  punii 

Distinguished  among  Indian  names  is  that  of  Iroquois 
Here  it  names  a  village,  formerly  known  as  Matilda,  bu: 
like  all  other  good  Matildas  do,  she  changed  her  name  v 
Iroquois,  in  order  to  preserve  the  name.  The  Iroquois  In- 
dians formerly  owned  this  section  of  the  country.     One  am; 


~:i^--' 


'.> 


:onclusi()n 
a  cabbage 
crown  of 
ise  for  the 
uld  call  l(^ 
tie  poern." 
iisville,  In- 
ieman  and 
ittle  verse, 
lat  he  had 
'    minute, 
linds  ot'tcii 
ience  with 
iakl  it  was 
Lit  changed 
on  the  tol- 
'  accepted, 
and  swop- 
iiihted.  for 
departure 
was   told. 
amount  ol 
,n  any  pub- 
expect  he 
rwise- 
ter  ii 
ach  pun  11 

Iroquois, 
latilda,  but 
r  name  t< 
oquois  in- 
One  am: 


a  half  mile.s  bch'jw  this  viUagc  is  tiie  narrowest  ponit  ui  the 
St.  Lawrence  river  tVoni  Kinirston  to  the  milt".  This  hroad 
e\pa)ise  of  waier  we  are  just  passing,  and  the  one  we  ar- 
rive at  immediately  after  leaving  the  [)oint.  are  \ery  shallow, 
conse<iuently  hold  tlie  water  in  check  at  the  point.  Tlie 
depth  of  water  in  the  shallow  |)laces  being  about  22  teet. 
wiiile  at  the  point  it  is  84  feet.  Width  of  the  ri\er  1.140 
feet — 170  feet  less  than  a  i[iiarter  of  a  mile. 

On  the  right  in  the  narrowest  portion  t^f  tlie  river  is  Cedar 
point.  On  the  left  is  a  small  blutT.  tormerly  called  Hem- 
lock point,  on  accoimt  of  a  fine  hemlock  standing  there, 
but  on  one  tine  morning  the  hemlock,  the  tree  and  the 
poiiit  all  slid  into  the  river,  and  have  not  yet  returned. 
Al)Out  fifteen  feet  back  from  the  jtoint  is  a  rail  lence.  which 
is  (julside  of  the  earth  works  tlial  were  thioun  uji  m 
181  3-1  J,  and  batteries  were  erected  on  Cedar  point. 

On  the  left  is  the  main  shore  of  th.e  nominion  of  Canaila 
with  a  population  of  over  five  millions.  On  the  rmht  is 
the  main  shore  of  the    L'nited    .States    ut'  .\inerica    with    a 


poi 


nilation  of  o\er  fit"t\'  millions.      When    that    fi\e  millions 


want  those  fifty  millions  all  they  will  he  obliged  to  do  is  to 
walk  over  and  take  them.  Then  will  be  verified  that  beau- 
tifu'  passage  in  Holy  ^\'rit  wnich  sa>s.  ••  One  shall  chase  a 
thousand  and  two  put  ten  thousand  to  tlight.      Sing  !" 

Thi    was  really  a  strong  point,  and  was  fortified  on  both 


^des  01 


th 


e  river 


bv  th 


e  opj)osmg  parties. 


'vom  the   tact 


of  the  successful  fortifications  by  tiie  Americans  the  Rideau 
canal  owes  its  origin,  (bins,  and  stores  or  merchandise 
could  not  be  taken  up  the  river.  It  was  concei\'ed  by  Col- 
onel By,  of  the  Faigineer  corps,  that  a  new  canal  would  ob- 
viate the  dittici.it V,  and  all   his  resources  were   immediately 


64 

put  into  requisition  and  the  canal  v/as  completed  at  a  cost 
of  $5,ooo,ooc.  It  extends  from  Ottawa,  formerly  By-town, 
to  Kingston,  and  is  still  in  use. 

Ten  minutes  from  here  to  the  next  point  of  interest.  On 
the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morrisburg  canal,  the  second 
canal  in  the  chain,  but  is  not  used  bv  this  line  of  boats. 
All  tows  and  sailing  vessels  have  to  use  the  canal.  In  the 
distance  front  is  Ra|)id  Piatt ;  on  the  right  is  Ogden's  Is- 
land, the  finest  wooded  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  river. 
Beyond  is  Waddington,  St.  Lav»Tence  county,  N.  Y.  In 
front  is  this  rapid  we  have  just  named  ;  it  is  the  second  one 
and  is  a  ''  little  one  for  two  cents."  It  has,  however,  eight 
feet  more  descent  than  the  first,  but  is  only  a  one  cent  de- 
sct'itfer  rapid. 

MORRISBURG, 

After  passing  the  point,  Morrisburg  comes  into  view  on 
the  left,  the  prettiest  village  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 
Look  at  its  churches,  public  buildings,  private  residences, 
and  hotels,  (the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  kept  by  W.  H.  Mc- 
Gannon  and  Brother,  and  I  can  say  cheerfully  no  better 
hotel  in  town.)  which  line  the  lianks.  for  we  are  still  in  the 
province  of  Ontario.  At  hal(^])ast  three  o'clock,  will  enter 
the  ()vo\ince  of  Quebec.  You  will  have  a  good  chance  then 
to  compare  the  difference  between  the  two  provinces. 
Your  especial  attention  is  called  to  this  now,  that  you  may 
be  prepared  to  scan  the  change  you  will  not  fail  to  observe. 
Before  reaching  Morrisburg  is  i:)oran's  Island,  which  was 
rented  by  Mr.  Oz.  Doran.  of  the  St.  Regis  Indians,  for  one 
dollar  per  year,  and  they  come  every  year,  60  miles  to  col- 
lect one  dollar.  Opi^osite  Morrisburg  is  Dry  Island,  used 
for  picnics,  etc. 


.-* 


6s 


at  a  cost 
By-town. 

rest.  On 
e  second 
of  boats. 
In  the 
;den's  Is- 
ice  river. 
[.  Y.  In 
:ond  one. 
^ei*,  eight 
cent  de- 


view  on 

Canada. 

;idences. 

H.  Mc- 
ho  better 

11  in  the 

ill  enter 
Ince  then 

ovince?. 

roil  ma\' 
(bserve. 

ich  was 
for  one 
to  col- 
id,  used 


i 


One  hour  from  tliis  point  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  We 
speak  of  this  here,  for  it  is  about  dinner  time,  and  if  you 
are  lucky  enough  to  secure  a  seat  at  the  first  table  you  will 
lose  no  point  of  interest,  for  it  is  presumable  you  will  finish 
within  the  hour 

THE  CUISINE  ON  THE  BOAT. 

It  would  not  be  amiss  here  to  state  that  the  meals  were 
formerly  served  on  the  American  plan,  and  to  ^iive  you  but 
a  faint  idea  of  the  commotion  created  by  tht^  passengers 
when  there  was  one  more  person  on  board  than  seats  at 
the  table,  would  require  a  volume  ten  times  this  size  to  de 
scribe.  Therefore  please  excuse  me  if  I  relate  by  way  of 
an  illustration  what  an  eminent  French  writer  said  on  the 
subject :  "  The  waiters,  like  little  poppets,  would  bob  up 
serenely  at  any  time  and  place,  drop  a  dish  or  whatever 
the  hand  contained,  and  was  as  soon  out  of  sight.  This 
continued  for  about  one  hour,  while  we  were  seated  back 
against  the  cabin  wall,  with  just  space  enough  for  the  waiter 
to  pass  between  us  and  the  table.  \\'hen  the  signal  was 
given  everybody  made  a  rush  for  the  table,  and  if  the  scene 
depicted  could  only  be  described  humorously  or  otherwise. 
I  would  like  to  read  it."  But  the  writer  said  it  reminded 
him  of  the  famous  j)icture  in  her  Majesty's  gallery.  '•  The 
Rape  of  the  Sabines."  (I  have  never  seen  that  picture,  but 
l)resame  it  is  that  of  a  beautiful  female  ])oised  as  a  central 
figure,  and  about  ten  soldiers  ready  to  embrace  her  on  a 
given  signal.)  Things  have  changed,  however,  and  tiiis 
season  the  meals  will  be  served  on  the  American  plan,  run 
by  the  Company,  who  have  secured  the  best  stewards,  etc., 


66 

to  superintend  the  service  to  the  end,  that  everyone  may  be 
pleased.  The  upper  saloon  will  not  be  used,  but  what  was 
formerly  known  as  the  ladies'  cabin  will  be  the  dining-room, 
which  gives  the  whole  saloon  as  a  promenade  and  place  of 
repose  and  rest  for  the  passengers.  I  am  positive  the 
change  will  be  acceptable. 

About  a  mile  below  Morrisburg,  on  the  right,  is  Ooose- 
neck  island,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  the  neck  of  a 
goose  ;  the  ujjper  end  is  the  neck  ;  the  narrative  is  p. bout 
niiie  miles  long.     Five  miles  from  Morrisburg  to 

CHRYSLER'S  FARM, 


memorable  fo"  the  battle  fought  on  this  ground  in  the  year 
1813.  The  Americans  were  the  attacking  party  on  this  oc- 
casion, having  arose  early  in  the  morning,  crossed  the  river 
into  the  little  bay,  landed,  and  immediately  went  into  the 
contest  by  attacking  the  little  house.  The  fight  was  desper- 
ate, lasting  until  eleven  o'clock,  w^hen  the  Americans,  under 
General  Williams,  were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter.  The 
house  was  comp>letely  riddled  with  bullets.  It  has  since 
been  torn  down,  and  the  chimney  left  as  a  monument  t-^ 
the  battle.  They  retreated  in  good  order,  re-crossed  the 
river,  and  remained,  having  abandoned  the  trip  to  Moiv 
treal,  which  they  intended.  1  draw  this  mild,  because  I  am 
one  of  •'  Clod's  people  "  myself. 

Next  in  interest  is  Farron's  point,  opposite  which  is  Croyl's 
Island.  Six  minutes  from  here  to  Long  Sault  Rapids,  wc 
pass  on  the  left  Harrison's  landing. 


67 


may  be 

hat  was 
g-rooni, 
)lace  oi 
tive  the 

Goose- 

eck  of  a 


IS 


bout 


the  year 
n  this  oc- 
Ithe  river 
into  thi- 
desper^ 
s,  under 
Y.  The 
as  since 
Iment  to 
5sed  the 
lo  Moil 
|se  I  aiii 

Croyl':- 
)ids.  \vc 


LONG  SAULT  ISLAND. 

At  this  point  there  are  really  two  channels,  the  American 
ch.aunel  being  on  the  right  of  Long  Sault  Island,  the  rapids 
lorming  the  Canadian  channel,  ami  are  on  the  left  of  the 
island.  The  distinguishing  feature  about  tlie  American 
channel  is  while  it  is  swift  in  current,  it  has  no  rapids 
worthy  of  note,  and  the  channel  is  used  for  tows,  etc.,  and 
all  the  rafts  naturally  prefer  this  way,  because  it  would  be 
impossible  for  them  to  go  down  the  Long  Sault. 

In  the  distant  front  observe  the  light-house  at  the  head  of 
the  Cornwall  canal,  tw^elve  miles  in  length,  that  passes 
around  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 

The  boats  are  steered  from  landmarks  on  shore  ;  by  that 
small  ball  you  see  on  the  end  of  the  pole,  which  is  the  bow- 
sprit. The  target  that  you  see  in  the  distance  is  used  by 
the  pilot  to  get  his  position  in  Long  Sault  Rapids.  These 
targets  will  be  seen  frequently  as  you  progress,  and  as  they 
all  answer  the  same  purpose,  this  reference  to  them  will 
suttice. 

LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's  Landing  on  the  left  was  formerly  a  very  im- 
portant point  on  this  line,  as  it  was  the  foot  of  naxigation 
Iieiore  the  canal  was  completed  some  forty  years  ago. 
l'\.\v  changes  have  taken  i)lace  since,  that  are  apparent  to 
tile  eye.  The  Long  Sault  is  the  first  one  of  the  first-class 
rapids,  and  the  third  one  in  line  proceeding  down  the  river, 
and  as  we  set  a  price  on  the  other  two,  you  can  set  your 
own   price  on   this  one.     A  descri[)tion  of  these  rapids  has 


'f't^ 


68 

been  given  from  time  immemorial ;  it  does  not  behoove  us 
to  give  any  graphic  or  colored  description  of  this  scene, 
althougli  we  might  do  so  satisfactorily,  having  seen  depicted 
on  the  countenances  of  thousands  of  j^assengers  who  ha\e 
passed  this  way  every  thing  in  nature  from  the  sublime  to 
the  ridiculous  as  well  as  between  the  two,  and  as  eacli  indi- 
vidual's feelings  differ,  no  one  description  would  do  the  sul)- 
ject  justice.  One  writer  said,  "  it  was  like  sliding  down 
hill  on  a  steamboat."  Another  said  he  felt  as  if  he  was 
being  nnglued  I  A  third  said  he  felt  as  if  he  had  taken  a 
large  dose  of  ipecac.  Still  another  as  if  he  was  on  a  ship 
at  sea  in  a  storm.  And  yet  one  more  was  so  exhilerated 
that  he  imaojined  he  owned  Maud  S.  and  would  like  to 
spend  his  days  on  the  ra])ids.  Another  party  who  had  ridi- 
culed the  trip  a  good  deal,  until  the  spray  began  to  cover 
the  deck,  wetting  them  to  the  skin,  drenching  their  store 
clothes,  which,  when  dried,  revealed  awkward  mistlts,  ex- 
claimed that  it  was  the  grandest  sight  they  had  ever  wit- 
nessed. 


It  is  now  the  Phat  Boy's  privilege  to  relate  a  few  facts — 
no  "taffy."  All  the  boats  of  this  line  are  built  of 
Bessemer  steel  or  iron,  with  three  and  one-half  inches  of 
elm  riveted  close  to  the  iron  on  the  bottom  outside  to  pre- 
vent accidents  if  we  should  strike  against  a  rock.  Thi.s 
|)recaution  was  found  necessary,  because  the  first  iron  boat 
that  struck  a  rock  became  a  total  wreck.  With  the  protec- 
tion of  elm  no  injury  has  resulted  from  the  occasional  strik- 
ing of  the  boats  against  the  rocks.  There  is  no  danger, 
however,  in  this  rapid,  for  the  water  in  the  shallowest  place 
is  thirteen  ar.d  one-half  feet,  and  we  are  drawing  about 
seven  feet.     During  our  jiassage  through  all  the  rapids,  we 


69 


loove  us 
s  scene, 
depicted 
ho  ha^e 
)lime  to 
a,ch  indi- 
the  sub- 
ig  down 
■  he  was 
taken  a 
on  a  ship 
:hilerated 
d  like  tu 
had  ridi- 
L  to  co\  er 
leir  store 
istlts,  ex- 
ever  wit- 


w  facts — 

built    of 

inches  ot 

e  to  pre- 

k.     This 

iron  boat 

le  protec- 

)nal  strik- 

o  danger. 

v^est  place 

ng   aboiu 

apids,  we 


-.1 


have  four  men  at  the  whee].  and  four  men  at  the  tiller  aft 
who  assist  the  men  at  the  wheel.  Any  accident  that  should 
happen  to  the  chain  or  the  wheel,  the  pilot  immediately 
L,oes  to  the  right  hand  of  the  tiller. 

The  Long  Sault  rapid  is  nine  miles  in  length  ;  three 
miles  of  boisterous  commotion  ;  six  miles  of  current  and 
shdden,  sharp  turns.  When  we  first  enter  the  rapid,  the 
steam  on  board  of  the  boat  is  slowed  down  until  she  cets 
her  position  in  the  rapids,  as  she  draws  less  water  than 
when  under  full  head  of  steam.  We  are  then  compelled  to 
put  on  full  steam  as  the  boat  must  go  faster  than  the  cur- 
rent in  order  to  obtain  steerage  way.  Many  suppose  that 
no  steam  is  used  through  the  rapids,  which  is  an  error.  If 
we  were  to  attempt  to  go  down  without  any  propelling 
|)o\ver,  we  would  be  at  the  mercy  of  the  current  of  this 
stupendous  agitation  called  rapids.  One  couldn't  tell 
which  end  of  the  boat  would  be  first,  and  it  is  presumable 
that  this  would  be  anything  but  pleasant   to  the  passenger. 

When  we  first  enter  this  rapid,  the  finest  view  is  obtained 
on  the  right  side  of  the  boat.  It  is  expected,  however. 
that  the  passengers  will  distribute  themselves  equally  on 
either  side  to  keep  the  boat  in  good  trim  ;  the  Ca|)tain  gen- 
erally uses  the  Phat  Boy  for  this  purpose  ;  when  he  is  not 
on  hoard,  the  passengers  are  expected  to  distribute  them 
st'Ktts.  The  view,  however,  soon  changes  to  the  left,  and 
when  nearing  the  point  the  swell  and  white  caps  run  from 
seven  to  eleven  feet  m  heiu;ht. 

We  have  already  explained  the  causes  of  the  rapids. 
N.)W,  will  any  one  please  explain  to  "me  what  is  the  height 
of  the  rocks  which  create  this  commotion,  and  at  tlie  same 
time  set  their  price  on  this  rapid.     After  passing  this  point 


w 


70 

MUTUAL  ASSOCIATION 

$10,000  Held  in  Trust  for  the  Association  by  Prov.  Government. 


Incorporated  C.  S.  of  Canada,  Chap.  7/  and  Amernhnenis. 


DIRECTORS. 

Premhnt: 
A.  L.  DE  Martigny,  Esq.,  Casliier  Jacques-C'artier  Bank. 

Vice-Presidcntfi  : 

Hon.   L.   R.   Church,    Q.    C,    Commissioner    of    Crown    Lands, 

Quebec,  V.  Q. 
Bi:nj.  (tlobensky,  Esq.,  Q.  C. 

L.  H.  MA8SUE,  M.  P.,  President  Board  of  Agriculture  for  Province 

of  Quebec. 
John  L.  Cas?idy,  Esq.,  Wliolesale  Merchant. 
J.  McEntvre,  Es<[.,  Mercliant. 
]\r.  Babcock,  Esq  ,  Manufacturer. 
Dr.  W.  W.  Ogden,  Toronto. 
Arthur  (Iaonon,  Es(i. 
John  Hopper,  Esq. 
J.  J.  GUEPIN,  Esq.,  M.  D. 


Hon.  Alex.  Lacoste,  Q.  C,  M.  L.  C, 
Arthur  (Ia(;non, 

John  Hopper,  .        .        .        . 

Dr.  J.  J.  GuERiN, 


Lcijal  Advii^cr. 

Trea.'<ur(r. 

Manager. 

Medical   Director. 


Section  11.— Asseinlily  Bill  l.'W.  passed  Marcli  30th.  ISS:].  "  The  Provident 
I\Iunml  Ass(jciatiou  of  Canada  sliall  be  deemed  to  be  an  Association  duly 
formed  under  the  said    chapter  71  of  the  Consolidated  Statutes  of  Canada 

Reserve  fund  to  be  invested  in  Dominion  Bonds  and  deposited  in  trust  with 
The  Provincial  Ti'easurer. 

GENERAL    OFFICE: 

162  St.  James  St  ,        MONTREAL,  p.  0. 


n 


I 


'■  'i 


ON 

ernment. 

idjuenls. 


\ 


ink. 


1    Ltmds. 


rrovmce 


Advmf. 
'reaxurd'. 
Managtr. 
Director. 


Provident 
ion  duly 

^  C'ana<l:i. 
rust  with 


0 


aiul  the  swell  and  white  caps  that  we  have  l)een  describing, 
on  the  left  is  the  passage  to  the  Canadian  channel  or  tliis 
river,  which  forms  Barnliardt's  island.  On  the  right  is  the 
American  channel.  This  was  formerly  used  by  boats 
l)efore  they  came  down  the  Long  Sault,  which  lor  a  long 
time  was  known  as  the  lost  channel.  The  channel  having 
been  lost  for  some  years,  it  was  discovered  by  Captain 
Rankin,  who  received  for  that  service  a  magnificent  silver 
watch,  the  value  of  which  at  the  present  day  would  be  about 
$6.50.  The  first  steamboat  of  this  line  that  ])assed  through 
the  Long  Sault,  was  the  Passport,  in  1848,  and  the  ])ilot 
was  W.  H.  McGanon,  who  is  still  in  the  employ  of  the  c(.)m- 
pany.  The  soundings  were  made  by  scows  and  rafts,  with 
])oles  attached  to  the  sides,  of  8  to  15  feet  in  length,  and 
as  either  of  these  met  an  obstruction  and  became  dislodged 
or  broken  off,  the  depth  of  water  was  ascertained  and  a 
record  made.  The  propelling  })ower  of  these  gcows  or 
rafts  was  oars  or  large  paddles,  worked  by  from  10  to  40 
men  on  each,  as  the  necessities  of  each  recjuired. 

The  steamer  Gill  was  the  first  l.^oat  through  the  rapids, 
and  went  down  more  by  accident  than  otherwise,  l)ul  it 
demonstrated  the  certainty  of  a  channel. 

Earnhardt's  island  on  the  left.  7^  miles  in  lengtli  by  4^^ 
miles  in  width,  belongs  to  the  United  States.  On  the  right 
IS  the  main  land,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  V.  Both  sides 
of  the  river  for  the  next  seven  miles  belong  to  the  United 
States.  The  King  of  Holland,  who  was  the  arbitrator  of 
vhe  treaty  of  18 12,  from  charts,  maps,  etc.,  furnished  him, 
supposed  that  the  main  channel  of  the  river  passed  around 
that  island  on  the  left.  He  was  mistaken,  however  :  this  is 
the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  the   only  navigable  one  ; 


m 


T^ 


72 

the  Canadian  channel  containing  only  about  ^^  or  4  feet  of 
water. 

During  the  next  eight  minutes  we  pass  three  very  sudden 
turns  in  the  river ;  the  first  turn  is  to  the  right ;  then  to  the 
left ;  next  to  the  right  again  ;  the  second  turn  being  the 
sharpest  on  the  St.  Lawrence  river;  at  direct  angles  turning 
to  the  left.  Passengers  on  the  left  side  of  the  boat,  by 
looking  backward,  have  a  fine  view  of  that  portion  of  the 
river  we  have  just  passed,  and  looking  forward  see  where 
we  are  coni])elled  to  go,  and  more  easily  note  the  sharpness 
of  the  turn.  Rafts  entering  the  American  channel  at  the 
foot  of  tlie  Long  Sault  rapids  will  drift  nine  miles  in  forty 
minutes,  and  are  often  tlirown  on  shore  on  either  side  in 
making  this  sudden  turn.  After  making  our  next  turn  to 
the  right,  by  looking  in  the  distance  front,  between  the  nar- 
row point,  will  discover  what  is  known  as  "  The  Crab." 
The  current  crosses  here  from  right  to  left,  then  left  to  right, 
and  from  right  to  left,  forming  the  letter  Z.  Rafts  get  en- 
tangled in  this  portion  of  the  river,  and  get  easily  torn  to 
pieces. 

There  is  a  ferry  boat  plys  between  this  point,  on  the  right 
Macenia  point  and  Cornwall  point  on  the  left,  touching  at 
two  places  on  Earnhardt's  Island,  to  convey  passengers  who 
are  desirous  of  visiting  Macenia  Springs,  six  miles  distant. 
The  steamboat  is  a  side-wheeler,  two  horses  tread  the  power 
that  revolves  the  wheels  ;  it  is  therefore  a  two  horse  power 
boat ;  tliey  convey  the  steam  on  board  in  a  bag  well  filled 
with  oats.  The  deck  hand  is  the  cook  ;  the  cook  is  the 
engineer ;  the  engineer  is  the  mate,  and  the  mate  is  the  cap 
tain  ;  one  man  supreme  command  ;  no  mutinv  ever  occurs 


73 


feet  of 


sudden 

to  the 
ng  the 
turninL!; 
oat,  by 

of  the 
i  where 
arpness 

at  the 
in  forty 

side  in 
turn  to 
he  nar- 

Crab." 
o  right. 

get  en- 
torn   to 


le  right 
ling  at 
srs  who 
distant. 
t  power 
;  power 
1  filled 
is  the 
he  cap- 
occurs 


i 


unless  the  mule  should  kick  the  deck  handover  board — that 
would  be  ''  }nulity''  would  it  not. 

On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Canadian  channel  at 
the  end  of  Earnhardt's  island.  Two  miles  below  on  the 
right  is  the  last  of  the  American  shore  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
lat.  45"  N.  Some  few  years  ago  I  was  presented  by  Messrs. 
H.  &  H.  Merrill,  one  of  the  largest  dry  goods  firms  in  the 
Dominion,  1682  and  1684  Notre  Dame  street,  Montreal, 
with  an  American  fla<jf,  fifteen  feet  in  leuLTth.  to  designate  the 
last  of  the  United  States  shore  on  this  River.  'rhrouo;h  the 
assistance  of  a  friend  at  Cornwall,  and  thirteen  dollars  in 
cash,  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  flag  in  position.  It  remain- 
ed there  for  about  ten  days  when  a  party  of  St.  Regis  In- 
tlians,  who  occupy  a  reservation  six  miles  distant  the  other 
side  of  the  island,  four  of  them  came  over  to  the  point, 
tilled  themselves  full  of  "  ice  w^ater,"  climbed  up  the  flag 
staff  and  took  down  the  flag.  They  cut  it  up  into  three  or 
Tour  suits  of  *  ^')thes,  and  went  around  this  vicinity  for  ab(jut 
a  week  as  full  as  a  boiled  oyster,  singing  ''  Hail  Columbia, 
tight  side  up,"  rolled  up  in  the  stars  and  stripes,  full  of  fire- 
water. It  was  said  to  be  the  happiest  moment  of  their  lives, 
and  I  have  no  reason  to  doubt  it. 

That  portion  of  the  river  on  the  right  is  the  dividing  line 
for  five  miles.  Afterwards  an  iron  fence  or  ])osts.  set  at 
equal  distance  apart,  mark  the  boundary  line.  I1ie  river 
])assing  around  that  way  forms  Cornwall  island,  about  six 
miles  wide.  Rafts  enter  this  portion  of  the  river  where  the 
Racket  river  empties  in,  and  are  here  refitted  preparatory  to 
being  towed  through  the  lake.  Both  sides  of  the  river  from 
this  point  downward,  belong  to  the  Dominion. 


^0* 


-T^r 


74 

In  the  distance  on  the  left  is  Cornwall,  a  village  of  5,000 
people,  with  the  largest  cotton  and  woolen  mills  in  the 
Dominion.  Since  the  protective  taritif  was  inaugurated  by 
the  Dominion  Parliament  these  industries  have  thrived  won- 
derfully, and  the  town  is  correspondingly  prosperous.  Just 
before  landing,  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  both  the  old  and 
new  Cornwall  canals.  Looking  at  the  old  canal  lock,  and 
learning  its  dimensions,  it  is  obvious  why  the  steamers  arc 
their  present  size  and  no  longer.  These  steamers  are  the 
limit  which  the  locks  will  admit,  hence  if  they  were  five  feet 
longer,  or  a  trifle  wider,  they  would  be  compelled  to  remain 
at  Montreal,  not  being  able  to  work  through  the  locks.  The 
new  canal,  which  is  alongside  of  the  old  one,  will  have  locks 
100  feet  longer  than  the  present  one  in  use,  consequently 
much  larger  boats  will  be  able  to  ply  the  river.  The  old 
canal  was  considered  amply  large  when  built ;  it  was  not 
supposed  that  the  travel  on  the  St.  Lawrence  would  ever 
reach  its  present  and  constantly  increasing  numbers. 

After  leaving  Cornwall,  on  the  right,  is  Cornwall  Island. 
6  miles  wide.  Just  beyond  the  island,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  is  St.  Regis,  an  old  Indian  village,  which  can- 
not be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  But  there  is 
just  one  point  where  the  church  roof  can  be  observed  for  a 
moment  or  so.  There  is,  however,  a  tradition  worth  relat- 
ing here :  The  bell  hanging  in  this  church  is  associated 
with  a  deed  of  genuine  Indian  revenge.  On  its  way  from 
France  it  was  caj^tured  by  an  E^nglish  cruiser,  and  taken 
into  Salem,  Massachusetts,  where  it  was  sold  to  the  church 
at  Deerfield,  in  the  same  State.  The  Indians,  hearing  of 
the  destination  of  their  bell,  set  out  for  Deerfield,  attacked 
the  town  killed  forty-seven  of  the  inhabitants,   and  took 


75 


5,ooo 
in  the 
ted  bv 
id  won- 
.     Just 
(Id  and 
:k,  and 
ers  arc 
are  the 
[ive  feet 
remain 
5.     The 
MQ  locks 
iquently 
rhe  old 
was  not 
lid  ever 


Island, 
ht  bank 
ich  can- 
there  is 
sd  for  a 
th  relat- 
sociated 
ay  from 
d  taken 
t  church 
aring  of 
Uttacked 
nd  took 


112  ca])tives.  among  whom  was  the  [(asior  an.!  his  familv. 
The  bell  was  then  taken  down,  and  conveved  to  St.  Reiris. 
where  it  now  hangs. 

During  the  ne.xt  lo  miles  of  our  trip,  the  rivur  is  bcauli- 
t'uUy  studded  with  islands,  anrl  resembles  the  Thousand 
Islands  scenery  very  much.  Many  of  these  ishmds  are  m- 
habited ;  some  of  them  elegantly  laid  out  with  drives,  etc. 
Rev.  j\fr.  Dickinson's,  called  after  himself,  lias  a  dock,  al 
which  steamers  of  this  size  can  land  ;  it  has  a  iiolel.  nuni 
her  of  cottages,  and  is  cjuite  a  gay  i)lace  in  .Summer.  On 
the  left  is  Summers  Town,  beyond  which  is  Hamilton's 
Island.  Just  before  reaching  Summers  Town  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Captain  Cameron,  of  the  Magnet  of  thi^  line  : 
beyond  is  the  magnificent  villa  of  Hon.  Caribou  Cameron, 
the  finest  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  buih  of  Oliio  free- 
stone, and  cost  $8o,ooo.  Hamilton  Island,  on  the  left,  is 
occupied  everj'  summer  by  camping  partus  who  come  from 
great  distances,  even  from  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and  remain 
two,  three  and  even  four  months.  Day  after  day.  one  of 
their  principal  amusements  is  rowing  out  in  their  small 
l)oats,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamers,  and  then 
swiftly  riding  on  top  of  the  swell  that  is  occasioned  b\  the 
wheels  of  the  steamer.  The  scene  is  exciting  and  pic-iur- 
esque.  On  the  right,  we  have  now  a  line  view  ol  the 
Adirondack  Mountains  of  Northern  New  York,  and  beyoml 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  except  it  be  a  smok\-  or 
misty  day,  when  the  view  is  slightly  obscured.  It  is  56 
miles  from  the  river  to  the  mountains,  and  intei\eiv,ng  is 
the  wilderness  of  the  State  of  New  York,  known  as  the  Jolm 
Brown  tract,  more  famous  as  the  hunting  ground  oi  a<l\en- 
turous  gunning  and  fishing  jiarties. 


76 

Continuing  our  course  we  pass  three  small  islands,  and 
enter  Lake  St.  Francis,  28  miles  in  length — a  very  pictur- 
esque sheet  of  water  indeed,  but  the  trip  through  the  lake 
is  quite  monotonous,  therefore  for  the  next  two  hours  the 
guide,  as  well  as  the  passengers,  can  "  take  a  rest."  This 
being  a  favorite  route  for  honeymoon  parties,  there  is  now 
two  full  hours  for  these  couples  to  enjoy  the  "  honey  "  or 
the  "  moon  "  as  seemeth  to  them  best.  After  making  this 
announcement  one  day,  53  left  the  deck,  one,  however,  was 
an  old  bachelor,  who  went  to  curl  his  hair. 


BOYS  ON  A  STEAMER. 

Here  is  a  genuine.  His  parents  are  with  him  ;  he  can- 
not keep  still ;  he  wants  chiefly  to  break  his  neck  or  fall 
overboard,  or  to  get  crushed  l)y  the  walking  l)eam ;  he  has 
been  twice  dragged  from  the  steps  leading  to  the  walking- 
beam,  used  by  the  assistant  "engineer  for  lubricating  pur- 
poses ;  he  would  like  to  get  in  the  paddle  boxes,  has  talked 
every  officer  on  board  to  death,  and  is  now  trying  his  best 
to  worry  the  deck  hands.  How  curiously  constructed  is  a 
real  boy  to  go  whether  he  should  not,  and  especially  where 
his  anxious  mother  most  fears  he  will  go  ;  he  is  now  doing 
his  best  to  spoil  his  ]jarents  trip.  We  can  leave  him  for  a 
moment ;  he  won't  flag  in  his  endeavors  to  get  into  trouble 
or  to  make  his  parents  miserable. 

This  is  a  smaller  boy — not  yet  out  of  his  petticoats,  but 
very  active  ;  he,  too,  has  with  him  an  anxious  mother  ;  he 
has  found  another  boy — a  strange  boy,  of  the  same  size 
and  sex  ;  they  liave  become  acquainted  ;  the  strange  boy  is 
allowed  by  his  oarents  to  roam  about  the   boat  at  will ;  he 


77 


but 
he 


invites  the  nice  little  boy  to  roam  also  ;  Ik-  wants  him  to 
roam  as  near  the  walking  beam  as  i)ossil)]c  ;  he  lias  roamed 
there  himself  before  and  escaped  ;  he  tells  the  nice  little  boy 
how  cunning  it  is  to  come  near  being-  crushed  ;  the  nic  e 
little  boy's  mother  forbids  any  roaming  at  all  ;  she  looks 
with  disfavor  on  the  strange  boy;  but  tlie  strange  boy  con- 
tinues to  hang  around;  he  knows;  so  does  the  nice  bov  ; 
together  they  can  fool  any  one  mother  ;  unitetl  they  stand, 
divided  they  fall ;  now  the  nice  boy  edges  awav  from  the 
side  of  his  mother,  for  her  energies  are  momentarily  concen- 
trated on  the  set  of  her  bonnet  and  the  nice  looking  gentle- 
man at  the  other  end  of  the  saloon,  who  is  taking  side 
glances  at  her  through  the  mirror.  Now  the  nice  boy  gets 
farther  away;  they  are  on  the  forbidden  part  of  the  deck, 
near  the  walking  beam.  It  is  great  fun.  Now  the  cross 
man,  who  keeps  order  on  the  deck,  drives  them  away. 
They  go  to  the  newsboy  and  help  themselves  to  anything  on 
his  table  when  he  is  not  looking.  Thev  are  now  running  in 
and  out  of  the  staterooms,  in  everybody's  way  ;  it  is  a  won- 
der they  haven't  been  killed  twenty  time:^i.  It  is  great  fun 
for  the  boys,  but  almost  death  to  the  passengers.  And  the 
mother  is  still  so  occupied  with  her  bonnet,  and  the  dude 
who  has  made  a  mash  or  favorable  imi)ression  upon  her. 
that  she  has  not  missed  her  nice  little  boy. 

In  the  centre  of  the  lake,  on  the  left,  is  the  village  of 
Lancaster,  an  old  Scotch  settlement.  Just  before  reaching 
the  village,  what  appears  to  be  a  stack  of  hay,  but  what  is 
commonly  known  throughout  Scotland  as  a  Cairn.  It  is 
no  more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones  in  a  rounded  or  coni- 
cal form,  placed  in  that  way  to  commemorate  some  esj)ecial 
historic  event.     This  one  was  built  by  the  Glengarry  High- 


7'^ 

landers,  in  [<S47,  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  Sir  John  Col 
burn,  who  was  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Army  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  the  Province.     It  was  built  by  putting  col' 
l)le-stoneH  one  on  top  of  the  other — each  individual  inhabi 
tant   or  stranger  passing  that  way  adding   a    stone.     See 
Queen  Victoria's  Book,  where  she  describes  helping  to  build 
a  Scotch  Cairn  with  the  assistance  of  John  Brown,  and  one 
will  get  a  better  idea  of  how  to  build  a  Cairn,  this  was  done 
by  placing  stones  one  upon  the   other  until   it  reached  the 
height  ot    20  feet.     They  are  placed   in  a  conical  form,  and 
reaches  the  height  of  20   feet.     The  county  in  which  this 
place  IS  located   is  named   Glengarry,  and  is  mainly  or  al 
must  wholly  inhabited  by  the  sturdy  Scotch   highlanders. 
whose  farms  are  the  finest   in  the   Dominion.     This  is  the 
last  Enirlish  sDcakin-j;  village  on  the  route. 

PassiuLi  three  liiihthouses.  showing  that  the  channel  across 
the  lake  is  (}uite  intricate,  we  leave  St.  Anisette  on  the 
right,  a  small  French  town.  We  are  now  approaching  the 
boundary  line  between  the  provinces  of  Ontario  and  Que- 
bec. The  lighthouses  on  either  side  show  the  geogra])hi- 
cal  divisions.  From  the  lighthouse  on  the  left,  the  hne 
runs  straight  to  the  Ottawa  river;  then  the  Ottawa  becomes 
the  dividing  line.  Just  before  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake,  where  tlie  river  re-forms,  we  ]\ass  SauZoti<[ue;  nexi 
Coteau  landing  where  we  call  for  the  purpose  of  taking  on  a 
pilot. 

EDWARD  WILLETT, 

whose  duty  it  is  to  \n\ot  this  line  of  l)oats  through  the  nex' 
series  of  rai)ids:  We  are  coming  to  four  i ai)ids.  First,  the 
Coteau  ;   second,  Cedar ;  third.  Si)lit   Rock,  and  fourth,  tin 


in  Col 
d  Gov- 
Qg  col) 
inhabi 

'..  See 
o  buikl 
nd  one 
LS  dont- 
led  the 
m,  a.ncl 
ch  this 
r  or  al 
anders. 
j  is  the 


1  acr(3ss 
on  the 
ng  the 
1  Qiic- 
graphi- 
le  hne 
ecome 
of  the 
:  nexi 


ng  on  .1 


he  nexi 

rst.  the 
nh.  tin 


^9 

Cascades.  On  the  extreme  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  is 
the  village  of  Valley  Field.  It  is  at  the  head  of  the  Beau- 
hornias  canal,  1 1^  miles  in  length,  v:hich  passes  around  this 
series  of  rapids.  The  river  in  ii^  miles  has  a  fall  of  84 
feet.  The  finest  water-})o\ver  privilege  on  the  continent  of 
America,  except  Niagara,  is  at  this  point.  The  largest  cot- 
ton mill  in  the  Dominion,  the  Canada  Paper  Co.'s  mill,  and 
several  other  manufacturing  establishments  are  located  at 
Valley  Field.  After  leaA'ing  St.  Francis  Lake,  we  re-enter 
the  river.  With  our  pilot  we  gc  down  the  si.:all  rai)id  known 
as  the  Coteau,  passing  Prisoner's  island  on  the  left,  and  on 
the  left  bank  is  the  old  French  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac. 
On  the  extreme  left  at  the  point  is  an  old  French  fort. 
where  battles  were  fought  in  181 2  and  1S13  ;  the  earth- 
works are  still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  beliind  which 
is  the  old  saw-mill.  Twenty  minutes  (or  five  miles)  fr(.)m 
this  point  to  the  Cedar  rapids,  then  you  will  see-der  Raind 
that  is  a  Rapid,  the  most  Rapid  Ra|>id  of  all  the  Rajjids. 
o[)posite  the  rapid  is  the  viUai^e  of  Cednr  on  the  left  and  St. 
Timothy  on  the  right,  the  Cedar  rapid  is  the  finest  upon  the 
St.  Lawrence  River.  L.  ok  at  St.  Timothv,  bear  m  mnidtiie 
view  you  had  of  Monisburg  ;  the  impression  of  its  beauty 
and  thrift,  and  no\,  ,ou  have  the  comparison.  How  does 
the  former  strike  you  as  against  the  latter?  It  is  a  historic 
tact,  and  worthy  of  note,  that  no  matter  what  town  you  arrive 
at  in  the  province  of  Quebec,  this  will  l)e  a[)i)arent  to  the 
eye  ;  the  finest  buildings  in  the  ;.Iace  wiil  be  the  church, 
nunnery,  school,  hospital  or  priest's  residence.  Aside  tnnu 
these,  the  rest  are  all  about  alike.  Vou  (annot  tell  the 
palace  residence  from  the  blacksmith's  shop,  or  the  grocery 
store  from  the  hotel.     The    chiu-ih  at  St.  Ttniuth\-  ha^   a 


X 


8o 


seating  capacity  cf  1.500  ;  the  population  of  the  village  is 
600;  the  church  is  aUvays  full  on  Sundays,  and  as  Mark 
T\\'ain  exclaimed,  *'V1iat  large  domes  these  worshippers 
must  have  to  their  pantaloons  for  600  to  fill  a  place  capa- 
ble of  seating  1.500."  But  they  come  from  all  the  coun- 
try around,  being  all  of  one  persuasion.  An  opposition 
church  is  so  far  unknown  in  these  rural  p-Uts,  hence  it  ma\ 
be  inferred  what  the  extraordinary  power  of  this  old  church 
must  be  in  the  lower  province, 

fust  before  arriving  at  St.  Timothy,  we  enter  the  Cedar 
ra|)id.  and  ])ass  a  distance  of  three  and  one-half  miles  in 
the  extraordinary  short  time  of  seven  minutes.  By  casting 
N'our  eye  shoreward,  vrhile  passing  an  island  on  the  left,  and 
just  before  we  enter  the  heaviest  part  of  the  rapid,  you  will 
discover  how  fast  the  boat  is  going.  Looking  to  the  right, 
you  will  see  Hell's  hole,  and  the  greatest  commotion  in  thc 
river  from  Kinijfston  to  the  (lulf. 

Leaving  Cedar  rapid,  which  is  tlie  most  picturesque  and 
beautiful  (in  our  estimation)  of  all,  two  and  one-half  miles 
further  along,  and  passing  Bockey  Hayes'  shoal,  which  is  a 
peculiar  formation  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  making  nav'ga- 
tion  somewhat  dangerous.  In  illustration :  one  day  lIu' 
steamer  Corsican  suddenly  lurched  to  the  left,  and  evidentl\ 
struck  a  rock,  whereupon  the  captain  said  to  the  pilot. 
'•  Edward,  you  are  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  left."  Before 
he  could  complete  the  sentence,  the  boat  lurched  to  the 
right  and  struck  another  rock  ;  then  the  pilot  replied,  "  yes. 
a)id  a  httle  too  far  over  to  the  right  side."  It  is  plain  that 
the  channel  about  here  is  at  least  precarious.  Th*^  govern- 
ment engineers,  however,  are  now  at  work  removing  these 
dangerous   obstructions.     The    Napoleon  hats  you  see   in 


8i 


tlie  distance,  on  poles  caboiit  ten  feet  In'^rh,  are  the  mark 


in  tilt 


which  enable  the  pilot  to  obtain  his  true  bearinu's  throii<d) 
the  shoal.  Turning  to  the  right  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Split 
Rock  rapid,  the  most  dangerous  rapid  of  all.  When  we 
speak  of  danger,  we  don't  mean  to  life  or  Hml).  as  110  pvr- 
son  was  ever  injured  on  this  rapid  ;  it  is  danger  to  property 
that  we  refer  to,  as  this  is  the  only  one  of  the  series  that 
i.as  cost  the  comi)any  one  dollar.  Thev  lost  one  steam- 
boat here,  and  have  had  others  uj)on  the  rocks.  On  tlie 
Sth  of  July.  1874,  the  steamer  Corinthian,  of  the  R.  ().  N. 
Co.,  when  passing  the  Split  Rockra]iid,  was  almost  instantly 
enveloped  by  a  terrific  thunder  shower,  accompanied  by  a 
hurricane.  The  wind  was  so  powerful  that  the  boat  refused 
to  an'-'wer  the  helm,  and  instead  of  turning  to  the  rigiit,  as 
slie  s.(/ii'd,  the  wind  caused  her  to  go  straight  ahead,  ami 
we  struck  a  rock  forward  about  five  feet  high  and  ]jassed 
fifteen  feet  aft  of  the  wheel  over  the  same,  and  then  stopped. 
I  was  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  l.)oat  explaining  to 
the  ])assengers  and  showing  or  pointing  out  to  them  the 
ledn'e  of  rock  when  she  struck,  hnmediatelv  four  ladies 
caught  hold  of  me  (whom  they  thought  was  the  boss  life 
preserver).  What  a  position  fin-  a  ni(-e  y(.)ung  man.  1  wa-> 
about  to  e.Kclaim  as  my  friend  A.  Ward  did  when  he  was 
surrounded  by  20  of  PJrigham  Young's  wivcs.  "  1  hoj)e  your 
intentions  are  honorable."  However,  throUj^h  the  assist- 
ance of  some  friends,  I  jn-ocured  life  preservers  tor  them 
and  was  released  from  my  somewhat  precarious  position. 
In  the  space  of  an  hour  nn^st  <'f  the  passengers  were  lande-.l 
Ity  the  aid  of  the  ship's  boats  and  batieaus  from  the  shore, 
and  i)roceeded  by  .ail  to  Moiareai.  wiiere  they  arrived  the 
same  eveninu-.      I  remained  on  board    all  nigiu   until   a  <ler- 


82 


rick  was  erected  and  two  of  the  boats  lashed  together,  and 
a  platform  built  upon  them,  when  I  was  let  down  by  the 
aid  of  the  derrick  upon  the  same,  and  without  further 
trouble  taken  to  shore  in  safety.  The  second  line  of  white- 
caps  which  you  see  in  the  distance  in  front,  is  the  Si)lit 
Rock,  a  ledge  of  rock  running  from  shore  to  shore,  with 
the  exception  of  a  break  of  about  sixty  feet,  which  is  a 
natural  s])lit  in  the  rock.  P'ormerly  there  was  only  a  depth 
of  nine  feet  of  water ;  it  was  blasted  out,  and  now  gives  a 
naviiiable  channel  of  thirteen  and  one -half  feet.  Passen- 
gers,  by  looking  into  the  water  on  the  right  side  of  the  boat, 
can  see  tlie  ledge  we  have  been  talking  about. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  here  to  the  Cascade,  the  last 
of  this  series  of  four,  and  the  last  but  one  on  the  river — 
the  Lachine  bein^  the  last.  The  Cascade  differs  from  all 
the  rest,  being  a  cuttmg,  chopping  sea,  in  which  the  boats 
are  wrenched  more  than  in  any  other  rapid.  On  the  right 
is  the  village  of  MelocheviUe,  at  the  foot  of  the  Beauhor- 
nois  canal,  eleven  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  that  passes 
around  this  line  of  rapids.  The  boats  of  this  and  all  other 
lines  are  compelled  to  pass  through  this  canal,  as  none  of 
them  could  ascend  this  line  of  rapids. 

We  are  now  thirty  miles  by  water  and  twenty-four  miles 
by  land  from  Montreal.  In  the  distance,  in  front,  is  Mount 
Royal,  or  Montreal  mountain.  The  park  mountain  drive, 
the  most  famous  drive  in  the  world,  is  up  the  brow  of  this 
mountain  through  a  park.  On  the  left  is  II  Perot  Island, 
formed  by  the  two  channels  of  the  Ottawa.  The  one  wc 
now  see  comes  by  St.  Anns,  where  Moore  wrote  his  famous 
Canadian  boat  song.  A  resident  of  St.  Anns,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Dowker,  says,  that  every  s]:)ring   the  freshets  of  the 


J0 


T,  and 
by  the 
further 
vvhite- 
i  Split 
e,  with 
:h  is  a 
,  depth 
gives  a 
^assen- 
e  boat. 

the  last 

river — 

rora  all 

e  boats 

e  right 

auhor- 

passes 

1  other 

lone  of 

miles 
Mount 
drive, 
of  this 
Island, 
lone  we 
ainous 
enant- 
of  the 


i 


83 

Ottawa  cause  the  water  to  come  dovn  into  the  St.  1  .awrence 
with  such  force  as  to  cause  an  eddy  to  })ass  up  the  i)oint  of 
the  island  and  pass  down  the  navigable  cliannel  of  tlie  Ot- 
tawa, and  he  can  take  a  pail  from  his  house.  Chateau 
Blanc  (where  the  famous  poet  Moore  resided,  while  at  St. 
Anns,  and  wrote  his  Canadian  poems),  proceed  down  to  the 
river  and  dip  up  a  pail  of  pure  clear  St.  Lawrence  water. 
The  oldest  church  in  the  u})per  province  and  old  forts  are 
to  be  seen  here. 

On  the  left  a  portion  of  the  Ottawa  em))ties  intcj  the  St^ 
Lawrence.  This  is,  not,  however,  the  main  channel;  the 
navigable  portion  of  the  river  is  just  the  other  side  o\  II 
Perot.  Note  the  difference  l:)etween  the  color  of  the  twu 
waters ;  they  are  wide  apart  as  green  is  from  purjile.  The 
water  of  the  Ottawa  is  of  a  dark  brown  color,  caused  by 
passing  over  low,  marshy  peat  bed  soils,  and  the  Luge  forests 
tiiTOugh  which  this  river  passes,  the  leaves  falling  and  rotting, 
and  swept  along  by  the  freshets  doubtless  dye  the  water  to 
the  pecuhar  color  observable.  The  waters  of  the  two 
rivers  do  not  readily  mix,  and  each  are  distinct  for  many 
miles. 

In  the  distance  is  Lake  St.  Louis  or  Lachine  lake.  r5 
miles  from  the  raj^ids  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  we 
arrive  at  Lachine  on  the  left,  and  Caughnawaga  on  the 
right.  The  latter  is  the  residence  of  the  Lidian  pilot.  St. 
jean  Baptiste,  who  takes  this  line  of  boats  down  the  La- 
<~hine  rapids. 

About  half  way  through  the  lake  on  tiie  right  we  come  to 
Nun's  island.  That  mound  or  elevation  of  ground  which 
vou  sec.  was  a  tort  m  1812.  and  Lnulish  and  American  war- 


84 


like  parties  met  in  sanguinary  contest  around  here.  It  com- 
mands the  entrance  to  the  Chateaugay  river.  The  villagt 
of  Chateaugay  is  about  6  miles  back.  The  Nun's  island 
belongs  to  the  Crrey  nuns,  of  Montreal,  who  have  a  hospital 
for  their  own  sick,  and  the  spot  is  marked  by  a  large  cros^^ 
emblematic  of  their  order. 

Fifteen  minutes  from  here  we  are  in  sight  of  Caughna- 
waga  where  we  take  on  board  the  Indian  pilot,  who  has  be- 
come of  historical  interest  to  tourists,  as  it  was  he  who  dis- 
covered the  channel  and  took  the  first  of  this  line  down 
August  19,  1840,  and  has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  com- 
pany ever  since.  He  is  70  years  old,  weighs  40  pounds, 
and  stands  6  feet  high.  Many  of  the  passengers  imagine 
he  is  the  only  pilot  that  can  take  a  boat  through  the  La- 
chine  rapids.  This  is  not  correct,  for  we  have  other  pilots 
who  can,  but  as  he  is  paid  for  this  especial  service,  they  re- 
sign most  cheerfully  in  his  favor.  He  has  never  had  an  ac- 
cident, and  the  company  believe  in  holding  to  that  which  is 
good,  and,  therefore,  "stick  by  the  old  man."  He  will 
emerge  from  shore  in  a  small  boat,  accompanied  by  his  t\v(> 
sons.  They  row  him  to  the  steamers,  he  comes  on  board, 
and  the  l)oys  row  home  again.  He  remains  on  board  til' 
the  next  morning,  takes  the  tirst  train  for  Lachine,  where 
he  is  met  by  the  boys,  who  take  him  home  in  the  row-boai. 
The  Indian  pilot's  name  is  St.  Jean  Baptiste  De  Lisle ;  h]> 
Indian  name.  Ta-ya-ka,  meaning  in  the  V.  S.  language  tha; 
••  he  will  cross  the  river,"  but  does  not  ;  he  goes  down  tlu 
rapids.  He  has  a  family  of  six  children,  three  boys  and 
three  girls.  The  girls  are  unmarried.  1  state  this  for  tin 
benefit  of  the  young  men  on  board,  as  the  Indian  pilot  s:  v> 
he  wants  a  "  heap  Yankee"  for  his  girls.  I  am  engaged  t<. 
my  Mary  Jane  and  they  can't  have  me. 


8:; 


illagc 


ley  re- 
al! ac- 
lich  is 

will 
is  t\v(> 
oard. 
ird  till 
where 
-boat. 
h\> 
tha; 

s  and 
)r  the 

It  s;  _v  ^ 
ed  {'■ 


The  Indian  ])ilot  being  on  board,  a  description  of  Caugh- 
nawaga  would  not  be  amiss.  xXotC'the  line  of  palatial  resi- 
dences along  the  bank  beyond  the  church,  the  windows  and 
doors  kicked  out  to  give  them  light  and  air.  'J'he  palace 
gar  lens  in  the  front  part  of  the  back  end  of  the  house.  The 
laundry  of  Caughnawaga  is  usually  hung  on  the  fence ;  it 
IS  not  wash  day  to-day  as  you  can  })erceive.  'i  he  bath- 
house is  the  whole  water-front,  but  it  is  seldom  used.  The 
water-works  is  that  barrel  on  shore.  That  fair  damsel, 
waving  her  lilly  white  hand,  is  Mary  Jane,  my  best  girl.  She 
comes  out  every  day  to  welcome  me,  as  she  thinks  I  am  on 
hoard.  V'ou  can  get  her  eye  and  have  a  flirtation,  the  same 
as  I  have  had  for  years,  and  not  make  me  jealous.  That 
!arij;e  brick  structure  is  the  centennial  buildinii,  built  durimz; 
llie  centennial  year  by  the  celebrated  Indian  Chief.  White 
Kicker.  I  think  they  use  him  to  kick  the  windows  and 
doors  out  of  the  palatial  residences  previously  spoken  of 

The  finest  crops  raised  in  this  section  of  the  country  are 
raised  iust  below  Caughnawaga.  Thev  raise  them  with  a 
derrick.  It  is  a  blasted  crop,  however,  and  of  no  use  until 
It  is.  This  notable  quarry  is  where  most  of  the  stone  comes 
from  for  the  construction  of  the  locks  in  the  ntw  Lachine 
canal.  The  entrance  of  which  is  at  Lachine.  the  village 
just  passed  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  on  the  left. 


THE  VILLAGE  OF  LACHINE, 

at  the  foot  of  the  lake  on  the  left,  is  a  favorite  resort  for 
Montrealers  in  summer.  The  inhabitants  number  abou 
j.ooo.  but  it  is  frequently  augmented  in  the  season  to  9.000 
nr  10,000.     Note  the  larsie  buildings,  which  are  the  church. 


86 

Villa  de  Marie  Convent,  the  School  and  University  for  the 
education  of  priests. 

Caughnawaga,  signifying  "praying  Indian"  (my  friend 
Ben  Butler  says  they  spell  it  with  an  e),  is  well  laid  out  for  an 
Indian  village,  with  a  ]iopulation  of  900,  all  Indians  ;  no 
whites  can  live  here. 

Our  Indian  pilot  being  on  board,  we  re-enter  the  river, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  enter  the  Lachine  rapids.  Before 
reaching  the  rapids,  the  tourist  can  see  the  aqueduct  that 
supplies  the  city  of  ^[ontreal  with  water. 

THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS 

differ  from  all  the  rest,  it  is  simply  an  intricate  channel 
through  rock.  Take  your  i)osition  upon  either  side  of  the 
boat  and  you  will  know  when  we  come  to  the  most  im- 
portant point,  as  the  boat  will  be  pointed  direct  for  a  little 
island,  which  is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  few  loads  of 
dirt  upon  a  huge  ledge  of  rock.  Keep  your  eye  upon  the 
bow  of  the  boat  and  you  will  be  led  to  exclaim,  why  are  we 
going  to  strike  the  island,  and  if  you  are  a  betting  person  or 
a  truthful  one  you  would  almost  swear  we  could  not  helj) 
but  strike,  but  when  within  less  than  ten  feet  we  make  a 
very  sudden  turn  to  the  riglit,  vrith  a  grand  pitch  or  lurch  in 
which  you  will  think  the  boat  drops  ten  feet.  We  pass 
alongside  of  a  ledge  of  rocks  for  about  half  a  mile,  to  see 
which  you  must  be  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat  ; 
at  the  end  of  this  ledge  of  rock  we  have  a  perfect  minature 
Niagara  ;  a  little  water-fall  for  a  cent.  Do  not  allow  the 
lurching  of  the  boat  from  side  to  side,  to  cause 
you    any    uneasiness    as    there    is    no    danger,     because 


«7 


little 
.ds  of 
n  the 
re  we 
on  or 

help 
ike  a 

:h  in 
pass 

o  see 

)oat  ; 

at  lire 
the 

ause 
a  use 


a  side-wheel  boat  has  guards  on  ihe  sides  from  four 
to  ten  feet,  projecting  over  on  each  side  from  the 
luill,  60  or  90  feet  long,  so  when  that  Hat  surface  strikes 
die  water  by  lurching  tiat  is  as  far  as  she  can  go.  therefore 
will  always  righten  herself  immediately.  This  is  the  last 
rai)id  built  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  you  can  have  it  the  best 
one  if  you  like  and  I  will  not  quarrel  witli  you  for  it.  ail  1 
ask  you  to  do  is  to  stop  at  the  hotels  who  advertise  in  my 
i)ook  and  tell  them  I  was  the  cause,  and  if  they  do  not  treat 
you  well  I  will  proceed  to  sit  down  upon  them,antl  the\'  will 
never  have  occasion  to  treat  any  one  else  badly.  Passing 
the  foot  of  the  rapids  a  first  view  of  Montreal  on  tlie  left, 
and  on  the  right  is  the  village  of  La  Prairie.  The  first 
Mountain  on  the  left  is  Mount  Bruno  ;  second,  Belleisle  • 
the  third,  St.  Pie.  The  next,  and  last  sensation  on  the  trip 
is  passing  under  Victoria  Bridge. 

VICTORIA  BRIDGE, 

the  largest  and  longest  tubular  bridge  in  the  world,  was  built 
by  Mr.  Stepenson,  in  1S60,  for  the  (rrand  Trunk  Railroad, 
bv  which  it  is  owned  and  controlled.  It  is  a  mile  and  three- 
quarters  of  iron,  two  miles  and  a  t[uarterwith  its  approaches; 
from  shore.  It  is  wholly  of  iron,  top,  bottom  and  sides — 
an  iron  tunnel,  or  box,  as  it  were.  There  are  twenty-iour 
abutments,  built  wedge  shaped  (to  crush  the  immense  ice 
fields  that  pass  through  this  section,  which,  previous  to  the 
building  of  the  bridge,  did  immense  damage  to  Montreal 
during  the  spring  freshets.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  fresh- 
ets on  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Ottawa  fiowing  in  some  miles 
above,  causing  such  disasters)  ui)on  which  rest  the  sections 
of  iron.     These  spans  are  from  250   to  360  feet  long  eacii, 


!«#'> 


88 


FAMOUS  FOR  ONE-THIRD  OF  A  CENTURY. 


THE  ST.  LAffREiCE  HALL, 

mo]s^ti^i:al. 

Is  80  arranged  that  rooms  used  for  guests  are  only  oue  flight  above 
the  GRAND  OLD  rAKLOES,  which  are  just  one  flight  of  stairs 
from  St.  James  street.  This  item  of  rooms  below  the  clouds, 
with  plenty  of  light  and  air.  is  worthy  of  attention.  The  St. 
Lawrence  Hall  occupies  a  frontage  on  St.  James  street  1.50  feet, 
on  St,  Francois  Xavier  street  140  feet,  on  Craig  street  ISO  feet,  and 
on  St.  George  street  110  feet,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  opposite 
the  new  Post  Oftice.  Thus  from  two  to  five  dollars  is  saved  from 
Lack  hire  alone. 

The  only  first-class  hotel  located  within  one  mile  of  the  post 
office  and  all  the  public  buildings.  It--  table  une(iualled  by  any  in 
the  ])ominiou  Satisfaction  guaranteed  to  everv  patron.  No 
ostentations  display,  but  all  the  solid  comforts  of  a  home. 

Only  one  block  from  the  French  Cathedral. 
Two  blocks  from  Victoria  Square. 

Only  Two  blocks  from  the  Theatre  lioyal. 

Within  two  Ijloeks  of  all  the  business  houses  and  dry  goods 
palaoes. 

The  nearest  first-class  hotel  to  the  depots  and  steam  boat  land- 
ings. Every  place  worthy  of  note  to  the  tourist  is  within  fifteen 
minutes  walk  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  except  those  you  see  in 
your  Park  Mountain  Drive.  This  hotel  was  the  home  of  all  royal 
and  notable  personages  who  visited  Montreal  for  thirty  years. 
It  has  all  the  modern  improvements,  Elevator,  Gas  and  Electric 
Lights,  Hot  and  Cold  Water,  Electric  Bells.  Ilooms  En-Suite, 
with  Bath  and  Closets  on  every  floor.  Spacious,  clean  and  well 
ventilated  rooms.  The  best  beds  of  any  hotel  in  the  city.  The 
prices  are  graduated.     All  under  the  personal  supervision  of 

MR.   HENRY   HOGAN. 


Ill 


>9 


ind   the  centre   span  is   about   60   feet   hi<ih.     j\^^  \yy■■^^] 


ITP 


tubes  are  16  x  22  feet.     It 


contains  no  \vai;(;n  road  or  loot- 


connectina   lines. 


I'ath,  and  is  used  by  the  G.  T.  R.  and  its 
'i'he  cost  of  this  immense  work  was  $6J25o,ooo.  about  one- 
half  of  which  amount  went  to  fatten  the  contractors.  J  was 
not  one  of  them.  1  mention  this  on  account  of  my  size,  and 
for  fear  some  one  would  think  I  was  wealthw  I'he  l)ri{l^e 
is  constructed  of  sheets  of  iron  with  a  two-inch  ed^^e  turned 
up  and  rivited  to  each  other.  It  is  fastened  in  the  centre, 
loose  on  both  ends  on  rollers,  and  is  pro\-ided  with  a  sliding 
track,  so  that  there  is  no  danger  by  expansion  or  contraction 
to  passing  trains.  It  expands  and  contracts  from  three  and 
one-half  to  seven  inches.  The  bridge  is  kei)t  in  thorough 
repair  and  well  painted.  The  small  holes,  or  perforations, 
in  the  sides  of  the  bridge  were  originally  intended  to  couNty 
the  smoke  out,  but  found  inadequate  for  that  ]nu-pose,  they 
caused  to  be  erected  last  spring  a  line  of  Hues  the  whole 
length.  Now  if  any  smoke  remains,  it  is  carried  out  in  a 
hand  basket.  The  two  movable  scaffolds  \ou  see  are  used 
by  the  workmen  in  repairing  and  painting.  It  is  not  a 
draw  bridge,  and  as  w^e  pass  under  the  center  s])an,  and  not 
over  it,  you  need  not  remove  your  hat  if  you  remain  on  the 
deck.  After  passing  under  the  l^ridge  you  will  have  a  mag- 
nificent view  of 


MONTREAL  HARBOR. 


The  points  of  interest  in  the  harbor  will  all  be  described 
to  you  as  we  pass  over  St.  Lambert's  shoal,  a  \-ery  danger- 
ous passage,  previous  to  landing  at  the  Quebec  boat  and 
transfer   such    passengers   as   desire  to  visit  Quebec.     The 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WE?S1ER,N.Y.  14580 

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90 

island  you  see  tront  on  the  right,  is  St.  Helen's  Isle,  used 
by  the  citizens  of  Montreal  for  pleasure,  picnic  parties,  etc. 
A  ferry  plys  between  the  city  and  island  every  half  hour, 
from  morning  until  7  p.  m.  On  Sunday  from  3,000  10  20- 
000  persons  visit  the  island,  mostly  P>ench  Canadians, 
three-Hfths  of  whom  comprise  the  population  of  ivlontreal. 
In  the  distant  front  on  the  left  is  the  oldest  church  in  Mon- 
treal ;  to  the  left  of  that,  the  largest  building  with  the  dome, 
is  the  Bonseccour  Market  and  old  City  Hall.  The  new 
City  Hall  is  that  large  building  in  the  rear  with  the  .''omein 
the  centre  and  four  columns  one  on  each  corner.  Across 
the  road  to  the  left,  that  long  building  is  the  Court  House. 
At  the  head  of  Jacc[ues  Cartier  Square  is  a  magnificent  col- 
umn erected  to  the  memory  of  Lord  Nelson.  At  the  fcjoi 
of  the  square  lies  a  steamer  of  the  Richlieu  and  Ontario 
Navigation  Company.  There  are  two  steamers  on  this  line, 
notably,  the  Moi/frca/  and  Quebec.  This  company  own 
twenty-one  side-wheel  boats.  The  Quebec  line  has  the 
largest  boats  that  lloat  the  St.  Lawrence  River  ;  they  will 
comi)are  fa\oral)ly  with  the  boats  of  the  Sound  or  the  Hud- 
son River — triple-decked  palace  boats,  built  of  BessennM- 
steel ;  one  has  a  capacity  of  360  state  rooms — the  other 
280.  The  distance  to  Quebec  is  180  miles,  and  the  fare  on 
this  line  only  $2.50— the  chea])est  on  the  contment.  Be- 
yond, on  the  left,  the  two  massive  towers  you  see  belong  to 
the  iM-ench  church  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  not  a  Cathedral, 
but  simi)ly  a  parish  church.  (The  Cathedral  is  on  Domin- 
ion Square,  in  ])rocess  of  erection,  and  when  complete,  will 
be  one-half  the  size  of  St.  Peters,  at  Rome).  It  is  the  larg 
est  on  the  continent,  and  has  contained  within  its  wall, front 
])orch   and   stairways,  on   the  24th  of  June  last   (St.  John's 


91 

dr."),  two  thousand  souls.  Beyond  is  I  he  Custom  House, 
with  the  clock  in  the  tower,  and  still  further  up  the  examin- 
iiiLT  houses  of  the  Custom  House,  as  well  as  the  office, 
(locks  and  steamers  of  the  Allen  line.  The  first  stop  is  at 
Quebec  boat ;  passengers  for  Montreal  remain  on  deck,  as 
this  line  is  compelled  to  enter  the  first  lock  in  the  Lachine 
canal ;  the  gates  close  and  the  water  is  allowed  to  enter, 
which  raises  the  boat  to  the  level  of  the  lock  when  the  pas- 
sengers are  allowed  to  depart.  Montreal  is  the  commercial 
metropolis  of  the  dominion,  with  a  population  of  150,000, 
three-fifths  of  which  are  French  Canadians.  The  docks, 
piers,  wharfs,  etc.,  of  Montreal,  are  the  finest  on  the  conti- 
nent. It  is  the  second  city  of  commercial  importance — 
New  York  being  first.  Six  steamship  companies  leave 
here  weekly  for  Europe  during  the  summer  season  and  a 
large  amount  of  business  must  of  a  necessity  be  done,  as  its 
channel  is  closed  during  five  months  of  the  winter.  The 
water  front  is  all  lighted  with  the  electric  light,  so  that  work 
is  carried  on  during  the  summer  months  night  and  day. 
Having  selected  your  hotel  and  arrived  at  the  same,  our 
next  duty  will  be  to  see  the  sights  of 

MONTREAL. 


It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  ocean  vessels, 
540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  two  great  rivers  of  the 
-North,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Ottawa.  The  Island  is 
about  thirty-two  miles  in  length,  and  at  its  widest  some  ten 
in  breadth  ;  it  is  so  fertile  as  to  be  called  the  garden  of  the 
Trovince.  The  surface  of  the  island  is  level,  with  the  ex- 
(cption  of  the  eminence  of  Mount    Royal,  which  rises  550 


jfr 


92 


Delawar 


Li 


DSON  C.  Co 


•n 


-RJi^XJ^TlOJ^TD. 


11 


SARATOGA    LINE. 

Twenty-Eight  Miles  the  Shortest  Route  between 
Montreal  and  New  York. 


The    Only   Line  to  Saratoga,  Lake   George,  and 

Lake  Champlain. 


The   Most    Direct  Route  to  Troy,   Albany,  New 

York,  Philadelphia,  and  All  Points 

South  and  East. 


Passpii^'ds  by  this  Route,  during  the   Summei"  Season,   may  exchaii;:i' 
theii' tickfts  t'oi-  timse  reading;  ••  Throuj^h  I^ake    Cliailiplailt    and 
I^aUe  Cieorjfe,  via  the  (."luimplain  TransiKU-tatioii  C<iiiii)anys  Steam 
ers."  ar1'or(Uii,u'  tlieni   an    <"iiii)ortiiiiity   of    viewinjj:    some  of  the    Kilicst 
Scenery  in  America. 


Wagner'a  Elegant  Drawing  Room  and  Sleeping  Cars 

Run  via   This  Route. 


Tlie  Tlin>u.t;h  Mail  anil  Express  for  New  York  carried  over  thib  hm>' 
OiiriiiK  the  Season  of  Navigation,  elose  connet'tion  made  at  Troy  aii<i 
Alliaiiy.  with  day  and  nijrlit  imats  on  the  llndsdii  River  for  New  York. 

InfoVniatioii  ;r'iveu  and  TieUets  soM  at  all  tlie  Urand  Truuk  Ticket  Otlk-e^. 
and  at  the  (.'onipany's  <  >frtce. 

14;5  St.  JaiiH's  Street,  Montreal, 

D.  M.  KENDRICK,  CHARLES  C.  McFALL, 


Fsaa.  A; 


/^  A  <^  .:l  A  4 , 


Agent,  Llon'irr:; 


93 

feet  above  the  river  level.     Mount  Royal  gives  the  name 
to  the  city  which  lies  at  its  base.     The  settlement  o.  the 
town  was  originally  determined  by  the  first  explorer,  Ja(  ques 
Cartier,  in   1535,  at  which  time  an  Indian  village.  Hoche- 
la.;a,  occupied  the  spot.     The   permanent  founding  of  the 
place,  however,  did  not  occur  till  1642.  and  in  one  hundred 
years  of  growth  thereafter  it  gathered  a  population  of  4.000. 
li  was  under  French  rule  until   1760.  when  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  British.      In  1832  the  cholera  raged  in  Mon- 
treal with  great  violence,  carrying  off  1.843  inhabitants  in 
a  i)opulation  of  but  30.000.     In   April,    1849.  ^    political 
mob  burnt  the  Parliament  buildings,  which  were  erected  on 
MrCrill  street,  and  the  seat  of  Government  was,  in  conse 
vjuence,    transferred    to   Quebec,   thence  to   Toronto,   and 
finally  to  Ottawa,  where   it   remains.     In  July.  1852,  a  t!e- 
>tnictive  fire  laid  waste  a  large  ])ortion  of  the  city,  burning 
1  [Q  houses,  and  consuming  property  valued  at  $1,400,000. 
Notwithstanding  these   reverses  the  city  recovered,  and  to- 
day numbers  a   population   of  150.000.     Years  of  industry 
and  enterprise  have  produced  growth  and  improvement  in 
Montreal,    such    as  but  few  American  cities  can  boast  of, 
.\\\d    perhaps   but    one — Chicago — has  exceeded.     At   the 
beginning  of  the  ]jresent  century  vessels  of  more   than  300 
tons  could  not  ascend  to   Montreal,  and  its  foreiirn   trade 
u:is  carried   on  by  brigs  and  barges.     Now  ocean  steam- 
ships of  over  4.000  tons,  the  tioating  palaces  of  the  Riche- 
lieu and  Ontario   Navigation   Comi)any.  and   ships  of  from 
700  to  4,000  tons  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  occupy  the 
wharves  of  the  harbor,  which   are  not  equaled  on  this  <  on- 
linent    in    point    of  substantial    construction,    convenience 
anil  cleanliness.     The  old  part  of  Montreal,  near  tlie  river. 


Ill 


94 

li;is  narrow,  inconiiiiodicus  streets;  but  the  new  growth  of 
llu-  <ity  towanl  Mount  Royal  has  been  liberally  laid  out. 
witii  wide  and  ilieerful  thoroughfares.  The  architectuiL- 
here  is  ver)-  line  ;  the  material  chiefly  used  is  a  zinc-colored 
Hnie-stoiie.  extensively  ijuarried  tliree  miles  from  the  cit\. 
The  public,  buildings,  banks,  and  principal  warehouses  arc 
solid  and  handsome  enough  to  adorn  a  European  capital. 
TIk'  great  wealth  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  ena- 
bled it  to  erect  many  magnificent  churches,  hos})itals  and 
convents,  always  in  a  very  massive  and  enduring  style. 
Other  denominations  seem  to  have  been  excited  by  emula- 
tion, and  vie  with  each  other  in  the  beauty  and  elegance  ol 
thcii  places  of  worshiip.  Among  the  evidences  of  the 
I'rench  oriiiin  of  the  ci  v  are  to  be  noticed  a  few  curious 
oUl  Ituildings  to  be  found  lingering  here  and  there  about 
lacipies  Cartier  S(|uare,  or  occupying  sites  on  the  eastern 
part  of  the  ri\er  tVont.  These  old  houses  were  built  some- 
what like  fortilications.  and  have  heavily  vaulted  cellars, 
wherein  treasure  might  be  stored  or  a  defence  made  against 
hostile  t'oes.  in  the  days  when  Indians  and  whites,  Fren<  n 
and  British  were  lighting  and  plundering  each  other.  The 
I'rench  Canadians  in  the  city  continue  still  to  be  a  little 
more  than  h  df  the  population,  and,  although  their  language 
heri'  has  -lot  been  unaffected  by  the  constant  intercourse 
with  lMigiish-s])eaking  people,  it  is  not,  as  commonly  su[i- 
jiosed.  <i  /^,7/(>/\\\  but  such  French  as  was  spoken  by  tiie 
l>olite  and  educatetl  in  I'rance.  when  the  emigrants  wlin 
fust  settled  C\inada.  left  the  shores  of  their  mother-land. 
The  naming  of  many  of  the  streets  of  Montreal  afur 
saints  ami  hi»ly  things  leminds  one  that  its  founders  were 
not  exiles  nor  adventurers,  but  enthusiastic  missionaries. 


95 


PLACES   OF   INTEREST. 

The  Post  Office  is  built  on  St.  James  street,  the  <  hief 
thoroughfare  of  this  city,  oi)posite  the  new  St.  I.auiviue 
Hall.  The  reason  I  use  the  word  new  nKu  he  asked. 
W  ell  the  hotel  has  been  newly  re-fitted.  the  corner  buiKhnu 
purchased,  one  hundred  elegant  and  coniniodious  rooms 
added,  with  baths  and  closets,  electric  bells  and  elevators, 
etc.,  etc.  The  old  proi)rietor,  Ur.  Henry  Ilooan.  pro- 
nounced by  connoisseurs  to  be  the  best  landlord  in  the 
Dominion,  has  assumed  the  proiirietorshij)  and  has  associ- 
ated with  him  as  manager  Mr.  Samuel  Montgomery  the 
best  choice  that  could  be  made,  as  he  is  an  .American  tiom 
the  Pacific  slope,  where  they  know  how  to  keep  a  hotel. 
1  therefore  cheerfully  recommend  you  to  stop  at  the  new 
St.  Lawrence  Hall  during  your  stay  in  Montreal.  Start- 
ing from  there,  it  being  the  centre,  every  point  of  interest 
is  within  fifteen  minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel.  The  first 
huilding  to  the  left  is  the  new  Post  Office,  recently  finished, 
with  a  richly  decorated  exterior,  and  every  internal  im- 
]»rovement  which  modern  ingenuity  has  devised.  .Adjoin- 
ing it  is  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  in  the  Corinthian  stvle 
of  architecture,  with  a  sculpture  on  the  pediment  depicting 
native  Indians,  a  sailor  and  settler  with  the  emblems  of  the 
arts  and  trade.  The  corpoiation  occupying  this  noble 
huilding  is  the  richest  one  of  the  kind  in  America,  it  has 
branches  in  every  town  of  importance  in  the  Dominion,  and 
has  offices  in  New  York,  Chicago  and  Pondon.  it  issues 
letters  of  credit  on  all  parts  of  the  world,  its  cajtital  and 
reserve  fund  amount  to  $18,000,000.  .Adjoining  the  15ank 
of  Montreal  is  the  Canada  i'acific  Pailroad  office,  a  simple 


P! 


96 

solid  structure  in  the  Doric  style.  Other  banks  having 
their  offices  on  Place  d' Amies  are  the  Jacques  Cariier. 
Ontario.  Quebec  and  National  Banks.  On  the  south  sidr 
of  the  s(iaare,  the  great  Parish  Church  of  Notre  Danif 
looms  up.  The  dimensions  of  this  vast  Norman  edifice  arc 
225  feet  in  length,  and  is  134  feet  in  width.  Its  towers  arc 
220  feet  high  ;  the  western  one  contains  the  largest  ])ell  in 
America,  '•  Gros  Bourdon,"  in  weight  29,400  pounds.  The 
seating  ca])acity  of  the  church  is  10,000.  It  has  recently 
been  decorated  in  deep  colors  and  gold,  after  the  manner 
of  the  St.  Ciiapelle  at  Paris.  Suspended  over  the  western 
gallery,  and  near  the  grand  altar,  is  an  immense  wooden 
crucifix.  This  was  brought  from  France  two  centuries  ago. 
and  was  first  set  up  in  the  church  built  on  the  ground  now 
Place  d' Amies.  Adjoining  Notre  Dame  is  the  veneral)le 
Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  with  its  old  gateway,  courtyard  and 
clock.  The  gentlemen  of  this  seminary  originally  held  val 
uable  rights  affecting  the  entire  island  of  Montreal  ;  miK  h 
of  the  land  yet  remains  in  their  hands.  With  the  wealth 
thus  brought  to  their  coffers  they  have  liberally  establishcHl 
and  conducted  many  institutions  of  charity  and  education 
scattered  throughout  the  city.  We  are  now  on  Not  10 
Dame  street,  the  chief  retail  street  in  Montreal.  Turning 
eastward  a  few  feet  from  Notre  Dame  church,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  street,  you  arrive  at  1682  and  1684,  where  is  lo 
cated  the  finest  dry  goods  palace  in  the  city,  Messrs.  H.  \- 
H.  Merrill's  establishment,  who  invite  you  to  call  and  in- 
spect their  goods.  Adjoining  is  R.  Sharpley  &  Sons'.  A 
little  above,  on  the  left,  is  167 1,  J.  &  E.  McEntyre,  nm 
chant  tailors.  They  make  all  my  clothes,  therefore,  if  t- 
can  fit  me  furth'.ir  comments  are  unnecessary.  A  little  alx 


:ni' 


)(  >\  c 


97 


havinu 
Carvier. 
uth  side 
;    Dame 
lifice  are 
wers  art." 
t  l^ell  in 
Is.     'Die 
recently 
manner 
2  western 
;  wooden 
LU-ies  ago. 
)und  now 
venerable 
tyard  and 
held  val 
al ;  mu(  h 
he  wealth 
stabhslunl 
education 
on    Sowc 
Turniiv^ 
,1  the  same 
diere  is  K» 
issrs.  H.  '.V 
all  and  lU- 
Sons'.     A 
ntvre,  niei 
'ore,  it"  iiH"> 
little  above 


is  Lanthier  &  Co.,  and  just  be\ond  is  the  old  reliable  estab- 
lishment of  T.  Mussen,  dry  goods,  fancy  goods,  etc.,  estab- 
lished in  1827,  where  we  cheerfully  recommend  you  to  call 
and  inspect  goods.  Let  us  go  on  the  left  hand  and  we  shall 
soon  arrive  at  the  Court  House,  a  fine  Grecian  building,  of 
simple  and  massive  appearance.  A  few  steps  further  on 
the  right  brings  us  to  Nelson's  monument,  setting  forth  in 
bas-relief  the  various  victories  which  the  great  naval  hero 
won  without  the  loss  of  a  single  British  ship.  This  monu- 
ment is  in  Jacques  Cartier  Square,  at  the  foot  of  which  is 
the  wharf  of  the  Quebec  steamers. 

Keeping  on  Notre  Dame  street,  directly  beside  the  mon- 
ument, we  find  opposite  to  each  other  two  buildings  which 
form  a  sharp  contrast.     The  one  on   the  left  is  the  new 
City  Hall,  a  lofty  and  ornate  specimen  of  French  archi- 
tecture ;  facing  it  is  the   "  old  chateau,"  a  structure  proba- 
bly thought  very  fine  a  century  ago,  when  Benjamin  Frank- 
lin set  up  in  it  the  first  printing  press  ever  used  in  the  city. 
Now  the  old  place  is  a  Normal  School,  and  the  discoveries 
of  the  illustrious  American  are  explained  there,  and  let  us 
hope  his  witty  sayings  repeated  and  acted  upon.     We  can 
now  take  our  way  to  the  river  side,  and  a  block  from  Jac- 
([ues  Cartier  Square  shall  find   Bonsecours  Market,  a  vast 
substantial  Doric  structure.     Here,  if  it  be  market  day,  we 
may  see  a  little  of  the  French  Canadian  peasantry,  clad  in 
their  home-spun,  and  bargaining  about  their  fowls,  or  eggs 
or  butter  with  many  queer  words  and  phrases  now  almost 
forgotten  in  the  Normandy  whence  they  were  first  brought. 
Next  to    the   market  is  Bonsecours  Church,  a   rough-cast 
building  with  a  high-pitched  roof,  and  with  a  breadth  of  a 
few  feet  adjoining  it,  occupied  by  cobblers  and  cake  shops. 


.s 


!' 


! 


This  church  is  the  oldest  Roman  CiitlioHc  one  in  liie  city  ; 
its  entrance  is  at  the  farther  side ;  rarely  is  it  unoccupied 
by  some  \vorshii»i»ers  from  the  adjacent  market,  who  briiii; 
in.  without  ceremony,  their  l)askets  and  bundles.  Sus- 
l)ended  over  the  altar  is  a  model  of  a  shi})  in  bright  tin.  in 
which  usually  burning  tapers  are  placed.  Returning,  on 
the  water-front,  we  note  the  ships  and  steamers  from  Liv- 
er])Ool,  Olasgow,  J.ondon,  Havre,  Rotterdam  and  other 
ports :  and  on  the  right  successively  pass  the  Custom 
House,  a  triangular  buihHng,  with  a  clock  tower  ;  the  office 
of  the  Allan  Line,  also  having  a  clock  ;  rnd  the  tine  build- 
ing of  the  Harbor  Commissioners.  Next  to  it  is  a  curious 
looking  pile,  with  external  hoist-ways  from  top  to  bottom, 
this  is  the  Customs  l^xamining  AVarehouse.  Before  we  leave 
this  vicinity,  we  shall  glance  backward  at  the  street  from 
Allan's  office  to  the  Custom  House. 

Taking  a  short  journey,  still  upon  the  river-front,  we 
come  to  the  great  works  of  stone  masonry,  which  are  to 
give  to  Montreal  an  enlarged  canal  to  Lachine,  so  that  ves 
sels  of  much  greater  tonnage  than  the  ones  at  present  useel 
may  be  employed  in  the  grain  trade.  This  enterj)rise  is 
one  of  a  series  of  canal  improvements  by  which  Canada 
strives  to  retain  and  increase  its  business  as  a  highway  for 
the  shii)ment  of  western  produce  to  the  sea-board. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  wide  street  running  up 
from  the  city,  McGill,  and  mark  the  fine  warehouses  that 
adorn  it.  Arriving  at  Notre  Dame  street,  on  the  right  is 
the  dry  goods  house  of  I).  C.  Laidlaw.  A  little  above,  on 
the  left,  John  Murphy  &:  Co.,  and  the  great  S.  Carsley,  who 
occupies  the  six  or  seven  stores  in  succession,  which  you 
are  invited  to  insi)ect,  and   I   am    positive  you  will  be  a^. 


99 

iavoral)le  impressed  as  I  was.  Retracing  our  stci)s  hac  k  to 
McGill  street,  we  turn  to  the  ri.irht,  and  inniiediatcly  in 
front,  just  one  block  is  Victoria  S(|uare,  \vhi(^h  contains  a 
statue  of  the  Queen,  by  Marshall  Wood.  Corner  St.  janies 
street  opposite,  on  the  left  is  the  Albert  BuildinLis.  Turn- 
ing to  the  right  we  enter  St.  James  street,  the  first  building 
of  note,  on  the  right  is  the  Ottawa  Buildings— in  which  W. 
McDunnough,  Lace  Store,  is  located  opposite,  on  the  left 
is  J.  J.  Milloy,  the  Tailor  and  Savage  c\:  Lyman  the 
Jewelers.  A  little  above  on  the  left  is  T.  J.  Dawson's,  tlie 
Ladies  wStore,  "the  Mecca  of  the  Ladies  of  the  Party,"  a 
little  further  on  the  right  is  (i.  W.  Clark  and  a  little  above 
is  1  )rysdale  &  Co.  On  our  way  to  the  Post  Office  from 
whence  we  started,  we  come  on  the  right,  at  the  corner  of 
St.  Peter  street,  to  the  Mechanics*  Listitute.  This  Iniild- 
ing  contains  a  good  library,  the  admission  fee  to  which  is 
only  nominal  ;  and  a  very  good  reading-room,  having  on  its 
tables  the  principal  dailies  of  America,  the  London  Times, 
the  (ilasgow  Herald,  the  Dublin  Warder,  the  Edinburgh 
Scotsman,  and  all  the  weeklies,  monthlies.  and 
quarterlies  of  both  England  and  the  United  States. 
Strangers  can  have  free  access  to  this  reading-room,  for  the 
period  of  two  weeks,  by  applying  to  Mr.  Hogan,  the  pro- 
l)rietor  of  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall. 


Opposite  to  the  Mechanics'  Institute  is  the  Merchants' 
bank,  built  in  modern  Italian  style,  with  polished  granite 
columns  at  the  entrance  ;  the  interior  of  this  bank  should 
be  seen  ;  the  main  office  is  carried  up  two  stories  in 
height,  and  is  beautifully  frescoed.  Diagonally  across  the 
street  is  Molson's  Bank,  also  of  Italian  design,  and  richly 


lOO 


decorated.  At  219  St.  James  street,  is  Charles  Alexan- 
der's. We  are  now  nearly  at  the  hotel  again,  where  we  may 
conclude  for  the  i)resent  our  inspection  of  the  city. 

Resuming  our  sight-seeing,  we  shall  now  leave  behind  us 
the  business  streets,  and  take  our  way  to  the  upper  part  of 
Montreal.  Our  suggestion  is,  take  St.  James  street  to  the 
first  crossing  on  the  right  as  you  leave  the  hotel,  St.  Peter 
street.  After  two  blocks  this  street  changes  its  nan^^  to 
Bleury  street.  When  if  you  find  you  are  foot  Svj.e  you  can 
turn  to  the  left,  to  the  end  of  the  block  on  Craig  street 
where  is  located  the  celebrated  Surgeon  Chiropodist,  Prof. 
Harris,  who  will  attend  to  any  trouble  of  the  feet,  that  will 
be  sure  to  make  your  walk  a  pleasant  one,  provided  you  are 
like  me,  sulTering  from  corns,  bunions  or  ingrowing  nails. 
At  No.  17  we  may  enter  Notman's  studio,  a  large  hand- 
some building  entirely  devoted  to  photographic  art.  Here 
we  may  spend  half  an  hour  very  pleasantly  in  looking 
over  views  of  Canadian  scenery,  and  portraits  taken  singly, 
or  skillfully  grouped,  representing  the  sports  and  pastimes 
of  our  winter.  The  chief  of  these  pictures  is  that  which 
shows  a  carnival  held  at  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  seven 
years  ago,  when  H.  R.  H,  j.  ince  Arthur  was  present. 
This  photographic  marvel,  with  others  now  surrounding  it 
on  the  walls  of  Mr.  Notman,  attracted  great  attention  and 
admiration  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition.  Mr.  Notman  was 
photographer  to  the  Exhibition  and  received  its  highest 
awards. 

Continuing  on  Bleury  street,  we  soon  reach  on  the  left 
the  Church  of  the  Gesu,  with  St.  Mary's  College  adjoining 
it,  conducted  by  the  Jesuit  fathers.  This  church  is  model- 
ed after  one  of  the  same  name  at  Rome,  where  the  remains 


lOI 


of  Loyola  are  entombed.  The  style  of  arcliitecture  is  the 
round  Roman  arch.  The  interior  is  one  of  tlu'  most  beau- 
tiful among  American  churches.  Over  the  high  altar  is  a 
fresco  of  the  crucifixion.  In  the  southern  transei)t  the 
sufferings  of  the  first  Canadian  martyr,  burnt  by  savages, 
are  depicted.  Leaving  the  elegant  house  of  i)rayer.  we  shall 
continue  on  Bleury  street  until  we  come  to  St.  Catharine 
street.  A  few  steps  brings  us  to  the  Nazareth  Asylum  for 
the  Blind,  attached  to  which  (No.  1091)  is  a  most  ornate 
chapel,  decorated  in  such  a  lovel)  manner  as  to  lead  one  to 
suppose  that  it  was  done  to  encourag  ihe  suffering  inmates 
of  the  asylum  to  see. 

The  next  building  on  the  side  of  the  street  (No.  1077  i.  is 
the  i^oman  Catholic  Commercial  iAcadtmy,  a  lordl\  monu 
ment  of  wealth  and  munihcence,  containing  all  the  modern 
appliances  for  the  practical  training  of  youth,  nnd  jjresi^lcd 
over  by  an  able  staff  of  professors.  If  we  kee]j  going  cast- 
ward  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  i)ass  on  St.  Dennis  street, 
the  immense  parish  church  of  St.  James,  with  the  tallest 
s])ire  in  the  city.  Near  by  is  the  new  church  which  is  dedi- 
cated to  Notre  Dame  de  Lourdes  ;  water  and  relics  from 
her  shrine  at  Lourdes  in  France,  are  for  sale  in  the  base- 
ment.    Adjoining  the  church  are   its  conventual  buildings. 

Returning  on  St.  Catharine  street,  we  soon  come  to  Christ 
Church  Cathedral  (Church  of  England),  unquestionably  the 
most  beautiful  specimen  of  gothic  architecture  in  Canada. 
It  is  of  cruciform  design  ;  its  extreme  width  is  100  feet. 
The  spire,  which  is  entirely  of  stone,  rises  to  a  height  of 
224  feet.  The  materials  of  construction  are  Montreal  lime- 
stone and  stone  from  Caen,  in  Normandy,  which  latter.  l)y 
exposure  to  the  weather,  has  changed  from   almost    pure 


i  ,i 


102 


whiteiiess  to  a  yellow  tint.  On  the  grounds  of  the  cathe- 
dral are  erected  the  residences  of  the  bishop  and  his  assist- 
ants, the  Synod  Hall,  and  also  a  fine  monument  to  Bishoj) 
Fulford,  the  first  Metro])olitan  of  Canada.  The  street  run- 
ning on  the  farther  side  of  the  cathedral  is  University  street, 
and  No.  82,  one  block  distant,  is  the  Natural  History 
Museum,  containing  a  good  Canadian  collection.  Univer- 
sity street  leads  us  down  to  Dorchester  street,  on  the  corner 
of  which  is  the  St.  James  Club  House.  Taking  Dorchester 
street  eastward,  we  pass  on  the  left  St.  Paul's  church  (Pres- 
byterian). On  the  same  side  we  soon  have  a  view  of  the 
vast  proportions  of  the  new  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  in 
course  of  construction. 


Across  the  square  on  which  St.  Peters  is  building,  we  no- 
tice a  beautiful  church,  St.  Oeorges  ^Church  of  England), 
and  adjoining  it  is  its  Sunday  school,  the  largest  and  best 
conducted  in  Canada.  On  Dorchester  street,  fronting  Do- 
minion Square,  on  Peel  street,  is  the  Windsor  Hotel.  Next 
beyond  on  Dorchester  street  is  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink, 
where  immense  carnivals  are  held  in  the  winter,  the  grand- 
est in  the  world  ;  in  the  summer  the  spacious  edifice  is  used 
for  concerts,  walking  matches,  public  gatherings,  meetings, 
etc.  Two  blocks  distant  is  the  Foundling  Hospital  of  the 
Gray  Nun — a  visit  to  which  is  thus  described:  A  long  pro- 
cession of  the  nuns  marched  slowly  into  the  chapel  and 
knelt  in  prayer.  Each  nun  had  a  crucifix  and  a  string  of 
beads  attached,  and  whatever  may  have  been  the  case  with 
their  thoughts,  their  eyes  never  wandered,  notwithstand- 
ing strangers  were  gazing  at  them.  Some  were  young  and 
pretty,  others  old  and  plain,  but  the  sacred  character  of 
then-  labor  of  love  invested  them  all  with  beauty.     We  said 


I03 

the  eyes  of  none  wandered.     Perhaps  we  ought  to  confess 
that  the  quick,  sharp  glance   of  one,  apparently  younger 
than  the  others,  started  us  for  a  moment ;  but  it  was  only 
curiosity — womanly    curiosity — and    what  woman  has  not 
the  curiosity  to  look  at  me.     Yet  that  moment  was  fruitful 
of  thought,  and  as  we  saw  the  sad,  dark-eyed  beauty  rise 
in  her  place  and  mechanically  follow  her  more  staid  sisters, 
our  mind  went  back  to  the  days  of  chivalry,  when  gallant 
knights  rode  with  lance  at  rest,  or  wielded  the  heavy  battle- 
axe  in  heroic  deeds  that  they  might  win  recognition  from 
the  proud  ladies  who  looked  down  upon  them.     And  as  we 
thought,  it  seemed  that  the   most  gallant  deeds  which  men 
of  this    nineteenth  century  might  do,  would   be  to  rescue 
yoking  and  pretty  nuns— who  wanted  to  be  rescued  from  the 
silence  and  sadness  of  the  nunnery. 


We  are    now   arrested  by   an   immense  structure  even 
larger  than  the  institution  just  passed;    it  is  the  Montreal 
college,  which   educates  ecclesiastics,  and  also  day  pupils, 
and  is  under  the  care  of  the   Suli^ician   fathers.     The  two 
Martello  towers  in  front    of  the  college  are    relics  of  the 
times  when  incessant  strife  raged  between  the  settlers  and 
the  Indians.     Sherbrooke  Street  is  adorned  with  the  private 
residences  for  which  the  citizens  of    Montreal  are  proud, 
and  in  your  drive  around  the   town,  previous  to  or  after  re- 
turning  from  your   Park  Mountain  drive,  it  will  repay  one 
to    drive    through    Sherbrooke,    Dennis    and    Dorchester 
streets.     The    McCMU    College,   University    and   spacious 
groimds  are  the  next  points. 


104 


As  we  pass  along  Sherbrooke  street,  in  the  distance  we 
observe,  as  we  glance  up  St:  Famille  Street,  the  enormous 
Hotel  Dieu,  with  a  large  bright  dome,  a  free  hospital  for 
all,  under  Roman  Catholic  direction. 

Returning  to  the  Post  Office,  preferably  by  Beaver  Hall 
Hill,  we  shall  not  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  number  of  hand- 
some churches  erected  there  together.  On  the  right  is  the 
Unitarian  church,  on  the  left,  successively  a  Presbyterian, 
Baptist,  and  Jewish  synagogue.  Near  by  on  Craig  street, 
is  a  towered  building  occupied  by  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association. 

We  are  soon  at  the  New  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  and  before 
mentioning  the  drives  that  may  be  taken  outside  the  city, 
it  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to  a  few  places  near  at  hand 
a  busin(iss  man  or  a  student  may  be  interested  in  visiting  : 
The  Corn  Exchange,  foot  of  St.  John  street,  the  Merchants' 
Exchange.  St.  Sacrament  street,  the  office,  of  the  Telegraph 
Co.,  and  the  Open  Stock  Exchange,  St.  Francis  Xavier 
street.  Near  the  beginning  of  St.  James  street,  on  St. 
Gabriel  street,  is  the  Geological  Museum,  open  daily  from 
10  to  4,  containing  an  admirable  collection  of  North  Am- 
erican minerals,  and  many  interesting  fossils.  Here  may 
be  seen,  what  many  geologists  regard  as  the  most  primitive 
record  of  life,  the  Eoxoon  Cariaddense,  first  noticed  at 
Perth,  Ontario,  by  a  Mr.  Wilson.  From  the  fact  that  the 
oldest  fossil-bearing  stratum,  the  Laurentian,  is  the  back- 
bone, geographically,  of  Canada,  and  because  of  the  great 
variety  of  rocks  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mon- 
treal, this  museum  is  i)articularly  attractive  to  a  lover  of 
science.     An  effort  is  on  foot  to  deprive  the  city  of  this  col  - 


105 

Itction,  and,  for  the  sake  of  centralization,  remove  it  to 
Ottawa.  I  offer  this  as  an  apology  in  case  it  should  be 
removed. 


DRIVES. 

As  I  have  said  two.  or  three  times,  by  far  the  most  i)leas- 
ant  drive  is  up  the  brow  of  Mount  Royal,  called  the  Park 
Mountain  drive.  There  are,  presumably,  two  roads :  the 
shorter  returns  by  McTavish  Street,  the  other  by  Bleury. 
The  park  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  Olmstead,  the  designer  of 
Central  Park,  New  York,  whose  achievements  there  were 
recognized  by  a  statue  adorning  one  of  the  entrances.  The 
river  view  from  Mount  Royal  is  delightful,  and  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated.  I  dare  not  attempt  to  describe  it. 
A  suggestion  of  how  to  get  a  hundred  pictures  of  every 
conceivable  shape  or  form  of  landscape  views,  containing 
mountain,  plain,  river,  lake,  hillside,  valley,  etc.,  etc.,  is  to 
close  the  eye,  place  the  hands  on  each  end  of  the  forehead, 
and  every  time  the  carriage  moves  a  hundred  feet  open  the 
e}es  and  you  have  an  entire  new  picture.  Keep  tliis  up 
until  you  have  had  an  elegant  sufficiency  of  views.  The 
next  drive  is  around  the  mountain,  and  was  the  best  until 
the  completion  of  the  Park  Mountain  drive  ;  it  is  pleasant 
and  attractive  when  it  includes  a  drive  to  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant  cemeteries,  giving  a  view  of  the  monuments  and 
tombs.  The  drive  to  Lachine  is  next,  and  is  of  interest. 
The  drive  to  Longue  Point,  along  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the 
opposite  direction  to  the  last,  gives  us  an  entirely  different 
kind  of  scenery.  It  takes  us  through  the  village  of  Hoch- 
claga,  the  terminus  of  the  new  railroad,  the  Quebec,  Mont- 
real, Ottawa  and  Occidental,  which  runs  along  the  north 


io6 


shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  develops  tracts  of  countr) 
as  yet  unbenefitled  by  the  iron  horse.  About  a  mile  from 
the  depot  is  the  beautiful  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the 
Holy  Names  of  Jesus  and  Mary.  Many  young  ladies  from 
the  United  States  have  been  educated  at  this  convent. 
The  next  noteworthy  building  is  the  Lunatic  Asyium.  This 
unmense  house,  containing  nearly  300  maniacs,  idiots  and 
imbeciles,  is  controlled  by  the  Sisters  of  Providence ;  these 
ladies,  with  the  exception  of  six  guardians  for  desperate 
characters,  and  a  jihysician,  have  sole  charge.  They  find 
no  trouble  in  the  care  of  the  numerous  inmates,  and  l)y 
their  kindness  and  tact  restore  mental  balance,  in  all  the 
cases  were  cure  is  possible,  in  a  tithe  the  time  it  used  to 
take  in  the  old  days  when  the  insane  were  treated  witli 
harshness  and  cruelty.  On  our  way  to  Longue  Point,  the 
villages  of  Loni^ueuil,  Boucherville  and  Varennes  lie  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The  drive  to  the  Black  river  is 
an  attractive  one,  and  with  citizens  the  most  popular  of  all ; 
the  beautiful  convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  situated  here, 
and  its  grounds,  finely  laid  out,  lead  directly  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  bridge  which  spans  the  river  at  this  place — a 
branch  of  the  Ottawa — aftbrds  one  of  the  characteristic 
sights  of  Canada,  the  piloting  of  a  raft  through  a  tortuous 
channel.  The  size  of  an  ordinary  raft,  its  great  value,  from 
$100,000  to  $300,000,  the  excitement  of  the  captain  and 
his  French  and  Indian  crew,  with  the  constant  perils  threat- 
ening the  whole  structure,  all  conjoin  to  make  up  a  scene 
to  be  dwelt  ui)on  and  long  remembered.  Thus  hoping  the 
same  will  be  said  of  your  visit  to  Montreal,  I  shall  ad\ise 
all  to  visit 


107 


iP 


QUEBEC. 

Tourists  can  take  either  tlie  Grand  Trunk,  the  North 
Shore,  or  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co  's  Hue  of 
steamers.  Tickets  can  be  procured  of  the  company's  a-ent 
o})posite  the  New  St.  Lawrence  Hall  building,  whJre  st'kte- 
rooms,  etc.,  may  be  secured.  I  assume  that  the  river  is  the 
route  selected,  and  that  the  reader  is  fairly  on  his  way  to 
that  ancient  city  and  former  capitol.  Passing  a  group  of 
islands  below  Montreal  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river, 
we  soon  arrive  ^t. 

SOREL, 

forty-five  miles  below— the  first  landing  made  by  the  steam- 
er. It  was  built  upon  the  site  of  a  fort  built  in  1755,  by 
M.  De  Tracy  and  was  for  many  years  the  summer  rasidence 
of  many  successive  Governors  of  Canada.  Five  miles 
below,  the  broad  expanse  of  the  river  is  called 

LAKE  ST.  PETER, 

which  is  about  nine  miles  wide.  The  St.  Francis  river 
enters  here.  Large  rafts  are  observed  here  slowly  floating 
to  the  great  mart  at  Quebec. 

THREE    RIVERS 

IS  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  river  St.  Mauric;e  and 
St.  Lawrence,  ninety  miles  below  Montreal,  and  the  same 
'listauce  above  Quebec.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  settled 
towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded  in  16 iS.  It  is  well 
iaul  out  and  contains  many  good  buildings,  among  which 


loS 

are  the  Court  House,  the  Goal,  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  the  English  and  Wesleyan 
churches.     The  population  of  Three  Rivers  is  about  9,20c. 

BATISCAN 

is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river,  one-hundred  and 
seventeen  miles  below  Montreal.  It  is  the  last  place  the 
steamers  stop  before  reaching  Quebec.  It  is  a  j^lace  of 
httle  importance. 

In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal,  the 
country  upon  its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its  general 
scenery,  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.  The 
villages  and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character,  gen- 
erally made  up  of  small  buildings,  the  better  class  of  which 
are  ])airited  white  or  whitewashed,  with  red  roofs.  Prom- 
inent in  the  distance  appear  the  tile-covered  spires  of  the 
Catholic  churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in  that  unique 
style  of  architecture  so  peculiar  to  that  Church. 

During  your  stay  in  Quebec  stop  at  the  St.  Louis  Hotel, 
and  if  carriages  are  desired  the  hotel  will  furnish  the  same. 
This  was  made  necessary  in  order  to  stop  the  imposition 
that  is  practiced  by  out-side  parties. 

CITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  by  its  historic  fame  and  its  unequalled  scener}-. 
is  no  ordinary  or  common-place  city,  for  though,  like  other 
large  communities,  it  carries  on  trade,  commerce  and  mari- 
ufactures  ;  cultivate'-  art,  science  and  literature ;  abounds  in 
charities,  and  ])rofesses  special  regard  to  the  amenities  uf 


109 

social  life,  it  claims  particular  attention  as  being  a  striking- 
ly unique  old  place,  the  stronghold  of  Canada,  and,  in  fact, 
the  key  of  the  Province.  Viewed  from  any  of  its  approach- 
es, it  impresses  the  stranger  with  tlie  conviction  of  strength 
and  permanency.  The  reader  of  American  history,  on 
entering  its  gates  or  wandering  over  its  squares,  ramparts 
and  battle  fields,  puts  himself  at  once  in  communion  with 
the  illustrious  dead.  The  achievements  of  darinsz  mariners 
the  labors  of  self-sacrificing  Missionaries  of  the  Cross,  and 
tlie  conflicts  of  military  heroes,  who  bled  and  died  in  the 
assault  and  defence  of  its  walls,  are  here  re  red  with  ten- 
fold interest.  Then  the  lover  of  nature  in  her  grandest  and 
most  rugged,  as  in  her  gentler  and  most  smiling  forms,  will 
find  in  and  around  it  an  affiuence  of  sublime  and  beautiful 
objects.  The  man  of  science,  too,  may  be  equally  gratified, 
for  here  the  great  forces  of  nature  and  secret  alchemy  may 
be  studied  with  advantage.  Quebec  can  never  be  a  tame 
or  insipid  place,  and  with  moderate  opportunities  for  ad- 
vancement, it  must  become  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the 
\ew  World  in  respect  of  learning,  art,  commerce  and  man- 
ufactures. 


The  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Cham- 
plain,  in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was  reduced  to 
tiftv  souls. 


n 


In  June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General  Wolfe 
landed  upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the  12  th  of  Sep- 
tember took  place  the  celebrated  battle  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  Wolfe,  and  the 
defeat  of  the  French  army.     A  force  of  5,000  English  troops, 


% 


'  y  ..i>^'^  w  .*i^r^-::si. 


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QaEBEC. 


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Di 

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Ill 

under  General  Murray,  were  left  to  garrison  the  fort.  Tlie 
city  is  very  interesting  to  a  stranger ;  it  is  the  only  walled 
city  in  North  America. 

Cape  Diamond,  upon  which  the  citadel  stands,  is  three 
hundred  and  forty-five  feet  in  height,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  quantity  of  crystal  mixed  with  the  granite  below 
its  surface.  The  fortress  includes  the  whole  space  on  the 
Cape. 

Above  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery  was  killed 
is  now  ^he  mclined  place,  running  to  the  top  of  the  bank  • 
it  is  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  used  by  the  Government 
to  convey  stores  and    other  articles  of  great  weight   to  the 

fortress. 


THE  CITADEL, 

will  perhaps  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to  many, 

from   the  historical  associations  connected  therewith,  and 

from  the  fact  that  it  is  considered   an  impregnable  fortress. 

It  covers  an  enclosed  area  of  forty  acres,  and  is  some  three 

luiiulred  and  forty  feet  above  the  river  level.     The  zigzag 

{passages  through  which  you  enter  the  fortress,  between  high 

and  massive  granite  walls,  is  swept  at  every  turn  by  forniid- 

able  batteries  of  heavy  guns.     On  the  forbidding  river  walls 

and  at  each  angle  or  possible  commanding  point,  guns  of 

heavy  calibre  sweep  every  avenue  of  a])proach  by  the  river. 

Ditches,  breast-works  and  frowning  batteries  command  the 

ipproaches  by  land  from  the  famed   "  Plains  of  Abraham." 

The  precipitous  bluffs,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  from 

the  river  three  hundred   and  forty   feet,   present  a  natural 

inirner  which  may  be  swei)t  with  murderous  fire,  and  the 


,-p.^mu.maBSBm 


112 


covered  ways  of  approach  and  retreat,  the  various  kinds 
and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers  and  munitions  of 
war,  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest.  Among  the  places 
of  note  may  be  mentioned:  The  plains  of  Abraham,  with 
its  humble  monument,  marking  the  place  where  fell  the 
illustrious  Wolfe  ;  the  Governor's  (larden,  with  its  monii 
ment  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm;  the  spot  where  fell  the 
American  General,  Montgomery ;  St.  John's  Gate,  the  onl\- 
gate  remaining  of  the  five  that  originially  pierced  the  walls 
of  the  city ;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  with  its  man\ 
tine  old  paintings  ;  the  Episcopal  Cathedral ;  the  Esplanade, 
from  which  is  one  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world ;  Houses 
of  Parliament ;  Spencer  Wood,  the  residence  of  the  Lieut. 
Governor  ;    Laval  University,  &c.  &c. 

The  city  and  environs  abound  in  drives,  varying  horn 
five  to  thirty  miles,  in  addition  to  being  on  the  direct  line  of 
travel  to  the  far-famed  Saguenay,  Murray  Bay,  Kamour- 
aska,  Gacouna,  Rimouski,  Gaspe,  and  other  noted  watering 
places. 


Quebec  can  minister  abundantly  to  the  tastes  of  thu.sc 
who  like  to  yacht,  fish  or  shoot.  Yachting,  in  fact,  has 
become  of  late  the  leading  recreation  in  Quebec.  \  on 
can  on  those  mellow  Saturday  afternoons  in  August  and 
September,  meet  the  whole  sporting  and  fashionable  world 
of  Upper  Town  on  the  Durham  Terrace  or  Lower  Town 
wharves,  bent^on  witnessing  a  trial  of  speed  or  seamanship 
between  the  Mouette^  the  Black  Hawk,  the  Wasp,  the 
Shannon,  the  Bon  Homme  Richard,  and  half  a  score  of 
crack  yachts  with  their  owners. 


113 


i  kinds 
ions   of 
e  places 
tm,  with 
fell   tlic 
5  monu 
fell   the 
the  onW 
the  walls 
its  many 
,splana(le. 
;    Houses 
the  Lieut. 


lying  from 
rect  line  of 
Kamour- 
d  watering 


les  of  those 
n  fact,  has 
ebec.     Veil 
August  and 
nable  world 
ower  Town 
seamanship 
misj>.  the 
a  score  of 


Let  us  see  what  the  city  contains  :-_ First,  the  west  win^^ 
1  milt  about  1789,  by  Governor   Haldiniand,  to   enlar<re  the 
old  chateau  burnt  down  in  January,  1734  ;  this  inoulderin'-- 
pile,  now  used  as  the  Normal  School,  is  all  that   remains  of 
the  stately  edifice  of  old,  over-hanging  and  facing  the  Cul- 
(le-Sac,  where  the  lordly  Count  de  Frontenac  held  his  (juasi 
regal  court  in  1691  ;  next,  the  Laval  University,  founded  in 
1854,  conferring  degrees  under  its  loyal  charter;  the  course 
of  study  is  similar  to  that  of  the  celebrated  FAiropean  Uni- 
versity  of  Louvain;  then  there   is  the   (Quebec  Seminary, 
erected  by  Bishop    Laval,  at  Montmorency,  in    166''  •  the 
Ursuhne  Convent,  founded  m  1636  by  ^Ladame  de  la  Pel- 
trie  ;  this  nunnery,  with   the    Roman  Catholic   Cathedral, 
which  was  built  in  1646,  contains  many  valuable  paintin^^s 
which   left    France   about    1789  ;    the    General    Hosi)ital, 
founded  two  centuries  ago  by  Monseigneur  de  St.  Vallier  • 
in  1759,  it  was  the  chief  hospital  for  the  wounded  and  tlie 
(lying  of  the  memorable  battle  of  the   13  September Ar- 
nold  and  his   Continentals   found   protection    against  the 
rigors  of  a  Canadian  winter  behind  its  walls  in  1775-6;  the 
Hotel   Dieu  nunnery,  close    to  Palace   Gate,  dating  more 
than  200  years  back. 

As  to  the  views  to  be  obtained  from  Durham  Terrace 
the  Glacis  and  the  Citadel,  they  are  unique  in  grandeur. 
Each  street"  has   its  own   familiar   vista  of  the   surrounding^ 

country. 

MONTMORENCY  FALLS 

is  seven  miles  below  Quebec.     The  road  is  very  pleasant, 
passnig  through  the  French  village  of  Beauport.   Those  who 


114 


mm 


expect  to  see  a  second  Niagara  will  he  very  much  disaj)- 
pointed.  The  stream  des(  ends  in  silvery  threads,  over  a 
precipice  240  feet  in  lKi<,4it,  and,  in  connection  with  the 
surrounding  scenery,  is  extremely  picturesciue  and  beautiful, 
but  inspires  none  of  the  awe  felt  at  Niagara. 

POINT   LEVIS, 

on  the  other  side  of  the  river  opposite  Quebec,  will  interest 
the  stranger  very  much,  immense  and  stupendous  fortifica 
tions  being  in  process  of  erection.  Most  tourists  visiting 
Quebec,  pay  the  Saguenay  a  visit.  The  ticket  office  of 
this  line  is  opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  where  my  genial 
friend  Stocking  will  cheerfully  impart  any  information 
required. 

WE   CALL   THEM   TRAMPS. 

During  the  Centennial  year  many  foreigners  were  alwa\s 
found  among  the  list  of  i)assengers  from  every  countr\. 
The  proverbial  English  tourist  cannot  be  mistaken  by  anw 
but  this  year.  1876,  we  had  many  who  were  too  green  or 
unsophistical  to  be  in  that  class.  Now  this  truthful  occur- 
rence which  I  am  about  to  relate  is  original,  and  occurred 
upon  one  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
hne  of  boats.  The  Englishman  \v  as  relating  to  his  newly 
found  friend  his  opinion  of  the  United  States,  etc.,  in  his 
own  peculiar  style.  Hi  don't  like  this  blarsted  country  you 
know  1  Why,  said  his  friend,  what  fault  can  you  find  with 
America  ?  Oh  1  Hi've  been  hall  over  it  you  know,  and 
can't  find  any  sawciety  there.  Society,  said  his  friend,  what 
do  you  mean  by  society  ?  Oh,  dear  me,  you  have  no 
gentlemen  or  gentlemen's  sons  hin  h'America.     Why,  what 


i'5 


1  disa]v 
,  over  a 
vith  the 
eautiful, 


I  interest 
fortifica 
;   visiting 
office  of 
ny  genial 
formation 


2re  always 
;  country, 
n  by  any. 
,  green  or 
iful  occur- 
d  occurred 
Company's 

his  newly 
etc.,  in  his 
ountry  you 
I  find  with 
know,  aiv.l 
friend,  what 
u   have    no 

Why,  what 


do  you  mean  by  gentlemen  and  gentlemen's  sons  ?  Oh  ! 
Hi  mean  gentlemen  who  never  did  any  work  you  know,  noi 
their  sons  either.  You  make  a  mistake  there,  my  worthy 
friend,  we  have  millions  of  them  here  but  we  call  them 
tramps,  and  I  have  often  thought  it  the  best  defmition  to 
a  tramp  I  ever  heard,  for  if  there  are  gentlemen  and  their 
sons  here  who  never  did  any  work  they  will  soon  make 
good  timber  for  trami)s  if  they  are  not  already. 

RIVER   SAGUENAY. 

To  the  pleasure-seeker,  or  to  the   man   of  science,  there 
can  be    nothing  more   refreshing    and   delighttul,  anything 
affording  :  lore  food  for  reflection   or  scientific  observation, 
than  a  trip  to  that  most  wonderful  of  rivers,  the  Saguenay. 
On  the  way  thither,  the  scenery  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 
is  extraordinarily  picturesque  :    a  broad   expanse  of  water, 
interspersed   with   rugged   sohtary   islets,  highly  cultivated 
islands,  and  islands  covered  with  trees  to  the  water's  etlge. 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  and  precipitous  mountains  on  the  one 
side,   and   by  a   continuous    street    of  houses,  reheved   by 
beautifully  situated  villages,  the  spires  of  whose  tin-covered 
churches  glitter  in  the  sunshine,  affords  a  prospect  so  en- 
chanting, that,  were  nothing   else    to  be  seen,  the  tourist 
would  be  well  repaid  ;  but  when,  in  addition  to  all  this,  the 
tourist    suddenly  passes  from    a  landscape  unsurpassed  for 
beauty  into  a  region  of  primitive  grandeur,  where  art   has 
(lone    nothing,   and   nature   everything  ;   when,  at  a   single 
bound,  civilization  is  left  behind  and  nature  stares    him  m 
the  face,   in  naked  majesty ;  when   he  sees  Alps  on  Alps 
arise  ;  when  he  floats  over    unfathomable  depths,  through  a 
mountain  gorge,  the  sublime  entirely  overwhelms  the  sense 
of  sight  and  fascinates  imagination. 


:i  t.  :  t 


ii6 


The  change  produced  ii])on  the  thinking  part  of  man,  in 
passing  from  the  broad  St.  Lawrence  into  the  seemingly 
narrow  and  awfully  deep  Saguenay,  whose  waters  leave  the 
sides  of  the  towering  mountains,  which  almost  shut  out  the 
very  light  of  heaven,  is  such  as  no  pen  can  paint  nor  tongue 
describe.  It  is  a  river  one  should  see  if  only  to  know  what 
dreadful  aspects  nature  can  assume  in  wild  moods.  Com- 
pared to  it,  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  cosy  and  smiling ;  it  is  wild  and  grand,  apparently, 
in  spite  of  itself.  On  either  side  rise  cliffs,  varying  m  per- 
pendicular height  from  1,200  to  1,600  feet,  and  this  is  the 
character  of  the  River  Saguenay  from  its  mouth  to  its 
source.  Ha  !  Ha !  bay,  which  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth, 
affords  the  first  landing  and  anchorage.  The  name  of  this 
bay  is  said  to  arise  from  the  circumstance  of  early  navi 
gators  proceeding  in  sailing  vessels  up  a  river  of  this  kind 
for  60  miles,  wUh  eternal  sameness  of  feature,  stern  and 
high  rocks  on  which  they  could  not  land,  and  no  bottom  for 
their  anchors,  at  last  broke  out  into  laughing  Ha  !  Ha  ! 
when  they  found  landing  and  anchorage.  This  wonderful 
river  seems  one  huge  mountain  rent  asunder  at  some  remote 
age  by  some  great  convulsion  of  nature.  The  reader  who 
goes  to  see  it  (and  all  ought  to  do  so  who  can,  for  it  is  one 
of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  the  continent),  can  add  to 
the  poetical  filling  up  of  the  picture  from  his  own  imagina 
tion. 

This  beautiful  trip  is  easy  and  facile  of  accomplishment. 
as  new  and  magnificent  boats,  rivaUng  in  luxuriousness 
with  any  in  our  inland  waters,  run  regularly  to  Ha  !  Ha  ! 
bay,  on  board  of  which  the  pleasure  seeker  will  experience 
all  that  comfort  and  accommodation  which  is  necessary  to 
the  full  enjoyment  of  such  a  trip. 


117 

To  the  foregoing  descriptions  we  append  an  extract  from 
the  letter  of  a  writer  in  the  Buffalo  Commercuil  Adveriiser, 
who  has  apparently  gone  over  the  "ground"  witli  much 
satisfaction.     Speaking  of  the  great  pleasure  route,  he  says  : 

"  There  is  probably  no  route  in  the  known  world  ])re- 
senting  more  attractions  to  the  tourist  than  that  from 
Buffalo  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  via  Lake  Ontario  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  river ;  presenting,  first,  the  visit  to  the 
great  cataract,  next,  Lake  Ontario,  tlie  river  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  romantic  scenery  of  the  "  Thousand  Isles ;"  then 
the  sublime  rapids,  increasing  in  grandeur  to  the  great  cul- 
mination of  the  "  Lachine  rapids,"  and  finally  finishing  with 
tlie  beautiful  scenery  of  and  around  the  Falls  of  Montmo- 
rency, at  Quebec,  and  down  the  Saguenay— all  combine  to 
make  up  more  of  the  wild,  romantic  and  sublime  than  can 
be  found  in  the  same  number  of  miles  and  almost  an\- 
traveled  route  in  the  known  world." 

Returning  to  Montreal  for  our  trip  down  Lake  Cham- 
l)lai-i  and  Lake  George,  to  Saratoga,  Alban}-.  New  York 
and  Boston,  as  most  of  the  tourists  have  tickets  for  these 
destinations,  the  routes  need  only  be  mentioned.  I'hc 
Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company  Railroad,  the  Central 
Vermont  and  the  Southeastern  railroads  all  have  agents  and 
ticket  ofiices  in  Montreal,  where  information  is  courteouslv 
dispensed  by  obliging,  gentlemanly  clerks  at  all  times.  It 
would  be  useless  here  to  print  the  timetables  of  the  differ- 
ent roads,  as  changes  occur  too  often  for  such  information 
to  be  reliable.  As  you  are  supposed  to  be  quartered  at  the 
new  St.  Lawrence  Hotel,  which  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
and  contains  the  Grand    Trunk  Railroad   and   Delaware  cV 


i^a 


'    1 ; 


it8 


m 


Hudson  Canal  Company  offices,  and  directly  opposite  is  the 
Central  Vermont  office,  presided  over  by  A.  C.  Stonegrave, 
any  time-table  required  is  easily  obtainable  ;  also,  adjoining 
is  the  the  office  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company. 

All  railroads  issuing  summer  excursion  tickets  through, 
over  this  line,  allow  passengers,  if  they  desire,  to  procure  at 
Port  Kent  depot  a  ticket  which  entitles  them  to  visit  Au 
Sable  Chasm,  and  to  return  to  Port  Kent  for  75  cents. 

Leaving   Montreal   in  the   morning,   by  taking  the   first 
train  on  the   Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal   Railroad,  if  you 
wish  to  make   Lake   George,  Saratoga  or  Albany  the  same 
day ;  your  tickets  may  read  Lake  Champlain  Co.  steamers, 
but  it  is  all  the  same  ;  boat  and  rail  belong   to  the  same 
parties.     Should  you  desire  to  take  Lake  Champlain,  leave 
Montreal  in  the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm,  via 
Port  Kent ;  remain  over  night  at  Lake  View  House,  taking 
the  boat  at  8  a.  m.   from  there   to   Fort   Ticonderoga,  and 
then  down  Lake  Ceorge  ;  or  proceed  on  the  train  at  10:30. 
By  getting  off'  at  Port  Kent  the  distance  to   Lake   View 
House  is  only  three  miles  by  stage   over  a  first-class  plank 
road  ;  therefore,  it  may  be  said,  if  you  desire  to  make  both 
lakes  on  the  same  day,  you  are  compelled  to  leave  Mont- 
real in  the  afternoon  and  go  to   Au  Sable  Chasm  via  Port 
Kent,  and  remain   over    ni<j;ht  at   the   Lake   View   Hotel 
which  will  be  found  to  be  an   excellent  house  ;  taking  the 
boat  in  the  morning.     If  tickets  read   by  the   Central  Ver- 
mont Railroad  you  go  to  Burlington,  where  you  arrive  for 
supper,  and  as  the  boat  does   not  leave  there  until  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  you  have  plenty  of  time  to  see  that 
beautiful  city  before  the  leaving  of  the  boat;  at  any  rate 


mmmrmimBm%^y 


119 


you  won't  have  to  rise  as  early  as  if  you  were  at  Plattsburg. 
MY  FIRST  VISIT  TO  AU  SABLE  CHASM. 


As  long  as  anything  shall  remain  green  in  my  memory, 
[  feel  confident  it  will  be  the  impression  of  that  charming 
view  and  grand  natural  spectacle,  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

Arising  early  in  the  morning,  if  not  with  the  lark,  a  very 
o;ood  second  in  the  race,  I  was  invited  by  the  manager  of 
the  Lake  View  House  to  visit  the  chasm  ;  accepting  the 
same,  we  proceeded  through  the  gate  and  down  the  steps, 
which  I  did  not   stop  to  count ;  but  the  number  was  suffi- 
cient for  a  man  of  my  weight,  and  as  large  bodies  move 
slow,  I  was  behind  the  rest  of  our  gay,  hilarious   party,  be- 
cause I  remained  to  drink  in  the  beauties  my  eyes  were 
feasting  upon.     Reaching  the  end  of  the  chasm,  where  we 
take  the  boat  for  the  rapids,  I  did   not  have  confidence  to 
proceed  the  rest  of  the  journey  with  my  companions,  as  I 
felt  I  was  too  large  a  crowd  for  the  boat ;  but  returning  as 
I  came,  which  very   few  people  do,  I  was  more  impressed 
by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery — more  than  going  down- 
Returning  to  the  hotel  some  hours  after  my  party,  I  had 
stories  to  tell  that  caused  many  of  them  to  return  and  make 
the  trip  that  I  had.     If  there   is    any   view   on  earth   tb.at 
will  please  you,  it  is  the  one  obtained  from  any  point  at  the 
[.ake    View    House,    Au    Sable    Chasm,  looking  at    Lake 
Champlain  and  the   Green    Mountains  of  Vermont  on  one 
side,  or  the  Chasm  and  Adirondacks  on  the  other. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad,  boats  left  Rouse's 
Point  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  a  train  left  Montreal  to 
connect,  but   as  the   route  on   Lake   Champlain  has  been 


I     ( 


VA 


120 

Lake  View  House, 

AT  AU  SABLE  CHASM, 

Is  on  a  high  plateau,  three  miles  above  Port  Kent,  which  is  on  tlu^ 
west  side  of  Lake  Chaniphiin,  opposite  liiirlington,  and  on  the  New- 
York  and  Canada  Kaih'oad,  and  at  wliich  all  passenger  trains  and 
steamboats  sto}). 

The  Hotel  commands  extended  and  grand  views  of  tlie  lake  and 
Green  Mountains  on  the  one  side,  and  of  the  Adirondack  Mountains 
on  the  otiier. 

ft  is  lighted  by  gas ;  has  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  &c.,  on  each 
iloor ;  sewerage  arrangements  of  tlie  best  character;  teleg/apb, 
billiard-room,  bowling  alleys,  and  livery  stable. 

The  Table  is,  in  all  respects,  tirst-class,  including  the  not  very 
usual  feature  (at  such  places)  of  an  abundance  of  vegetables — not 
canned,  but  fresh  from  the  garden,  and  fruits  in  season. 

The  Afr  will  be  found  remarkably  bracing,  dry  and  healthy; 
while  good  roads,  picturesijue  and  varied  scenery,  with  numerous 
walks  and  drives,  combine  to  make  the  place  a  most  attractive  and 
desirable  sunnner  resort. 

The  Lake  View  House  is  open  the  year  round,  but  is  principally 
a  summer  resort. 


THE  CHASM. 

This  beautiful  natural  wonder  is  formed  by  the  Au  Sable  River, 
wliich  has  cut  a  channel  in  the  Pots  lam  Sandstone,  leaving  gorges 
and  preci{)i;'es  of  varied  shapes  towering  above  its  dark  waters — 
the  top  and  sides  of  which  are  fringed  with  cedars,  whose  sombre 
shadows  add  to  its  mvsterious  grandeur. 

The  length  of  the  Chasm  proper  is  neaily  two  miles.  In  places 
the  river  is  over  fifty  feet  wide,  in  others  it  is  compressed  to  only  ton 
feet,  and  is  of  great  depth.  It  dashes  through  its  confined  channel, 
forming  a  variety  of  beautiful  cascades,  rapids  and  falls. 

Frcderica  Bremer  said  '^a  visit  to  the  Chasm  would  reward  a 
voyagv  from  Kuroi)e."  European  visitors  generally  fully  endorse 
this  sentiment,  and  no  h)ver  of  fine  scenery  should  omit  a  visit  to  the 


Chasm. 


J.  H.  BURDSALL, 

Manager  for  (lie  Au  Sable  Chasm  Co. 


121 


discontinued  from   Rouse's  Point  to  Plattsburg.  really  the 
most  picturesque  part  of  the  trip  down  Lake  Champlain 
being   cut  off,   most  of   the  tourists  take  the  rail   in   the 
morning  from  Montreal,  and  can  pass  through  Lake  Cham- 
]:>lain  by  rail.     The  rail  passing  close  along  the  lake  shore, 
one  gets  a  very  nice  view,  nicer,  as  I  have  often  expressed 
it,  than  if  the  parties  were  on  the  boat,  as  they  cannot  see 
both  shores  on  a  boat  at  once,  unless   the  tourist's  eyes 
were  cut  on  the  bias  or  cross,  thus  enabhng   them   to  see 
both  sides  at  once.     The  rail  is  preferable  and  saves  time. 
As  it  is  immaterial  to  me  how  you  reach  Ticonderoga,  it  is 
presumed  you  get  there,  Lake  George  Junction,  where  you 
change  cars  and  connect  for  Baldwin,  which  is  a  ride  of 
about  fifteen  minutes.     You   are   now   supposed   to   have 
arrived  on  board  the  company's  steamer  Horicon,  and  are 
saihng  up  Lake  George.     Now,  if  the  reader  expects  me  to 
describe  Lake  George,  I  shall  simply  say.  No  !  with  a  large 
N.     It  is  too  much  ;  its  praises  have  been  written  and  sung 
for  the  past  half  century  by  thousands.     I  shall  with  pleas- 
ure  and  reUef  to   myself  ask   the   loan   of  your   scissors. 
Thanks;  now  we  can  comply  with  your  wishes  :     A\'e  have 
started  on  our  trip  through  this  magical  lake.     It  is  difficult 
to  describe  the  quiet  delight  one  feels  as  he  gazes  on  the 
expanse  of  the  tranquil  azure  spread  before  liim  like  a  part 
of  the   sky  inlaid  on  the   emerald   bosom   of   the   earth. 
Peace  is  in  the  very  air  which  lazily  slumbers  over  the  water, 
while  the  monotone  of  the  silvery  ripples  rolling  on  the  yel- 
low sands,  and  the  musical  moan  of  the  breeze  in  the  cone- 
scented  pines,  seem  to  carry  the   soul  back   to  other  days. 
Lake  George  is,  indeed,  hke  a   work  of  art  of  the  highest 
order,   for  it  has  the  quality   of  improving,  the  more  one 


vmmmngmmmmm 


122 

Studies  its  attractions,  and  the  ever-harmonious  flow  of 
lines  constantly  suggests  a  composition  of  consumate  genius 
in  which  every  effect  has  been  combined  to  produce  a  cer- 
tain ideal. 

xVow,  dear  reader,  I  have  a  favor  to  ask  of  you  :  read 
this  little  book  as  far  as  Saratoga  description  commences ; 
then  lay  it  aside,  and  feast  the  eyes  on  Lake  George  for  the 
next  two  hours,  and,  if  you  can  describe  its  beauties,  do  so 
to  the  best  of  your  ability,  and  forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut 
Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  it  shall  have  a  place  in  this 
work,  and  you  shall  have  the  credit  for  the  same  ; — the  task 
was  too  much  for  me. 

CAMPING   OUT. 


The  lake  is  a  famous  camping-ground  during  July  and 
August,  and  its  enjoyments,  with  bits  of  sound  advice,  can- 
not be  better  given  than  by  the  following,  from  Stoddard's 
charming  Guide  to  Lake  (ieorge  : 

•'  The  lovely  islands  are  suddenly  astir  with  busy  throngs. 
Rocks  are  decked  with  blue  and  gray,  the  tree-tops  blush 
with  bunting  ;  shores  put  on  a  flannelly  hue,  and  shadowy 
points  blossom  out  in  duck  and  dimity.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  in  the  course  of  the  season  a  thousand  people  taste  the 
I)leasures  and  overcome  the  difficulties  that  but  season  the 
glorious  dish  of  camj)  life  at  Lake  George.  Among  the 
necessaries  are  a  light  axe.  long  handle  frying-pan,  tin  pail 
for  water  or  coftee,  tin  plate,  pint  cu]),  knife  and  iork.  and 
fishing  tackle.  A  stove-top  laid  on  a  fire-place  of  stones 
and  mud.  and  supjilied  with  one  length  of  stove-pij)e.  is  a 
positive  luxury  to  the  cook.  Spruce  boughs  for  a  bed.  with 
two   or   three  good    woolen   blankets   for  covering,  will  l)e 


123 


o\\  of 
genius 
a  cer- 


:  read 
lences ; 
for  the 
,  do  so 
iiestnut 
in  this 
he  task 


Lily  and 
ce,  can- 
oddard's 


throngs, 
ps  bhish 


found  very  comfortable  ;  a  small  bag  to  fill  with  leaves  or 
moss  for  a  pillow  pays  for  itself  in  one  night.  Flannel  or 
woolen  clothing,  with  roomy  boots  and  a  soft  felt  hat,  is 
(jrdinarily  the  safest  dress.  Ladies,  wear  what  you  have  x: 
mind  to — you  will,  anyway— but  let  it  be  tlannel  next  to 
you,  good  strong  shoes  under  foot,  and  a  man's  felt  hat 
overhead  ;  take  the  man  along  too — he  will  be  useful  to 
take  the  fish  off  your  hook,  run  errands,  etc. 

Boats  and  provisions  may  be  obtamed  at  almost  any  of 

the   hotels.     Bacon,   salt   pork,   bread  and   butter,   Boston 

crackers,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  pepper  and   salt,  with  a  tin  box 

or   two  for   containing   the    same,    are  among   the    things 

needed.       Milk    can  be    obtained    regularly   at    the   farm 

houses,  and  berries   picked   almost    anywhere.      Ice    is   a 

luxury  which  may  be  contracted  for  and   thrown  from  the 

passing  steamers  daily ;  a  hole  in   the  ground  with  a  piece 

of  bark  over  it  forms  a  very  good  ice-box.     A  drinking  cup 

of  leather,  to   cany  in  the  pocket,  comes  '  .ndy  at  times. 

Broad-brimmed  straw  hats  are  a  nuisance.     A  shanty  of 

houghs  will  answer  in  absence  of  anything  better ;  it  sounds 

well  when  you   talk  about   '  roughing  it,'   but  it  is  bad  in 

practice.     A  tent  is  best,  and  may  be  made  very  comfort- 

al)le  with  a  little  outlay  of  money  and  labor." 


THE  ADIR0NDACK3. 


The  great  wilderness  of  north-eastern  New  York,  the 
limits  of  which  we  will  not  try  to  define,  is  generally 
known  as  the  North  Woods,  or  as  the  Adirondacks 
according  to  the  view  taken  of  its  surface.  The  filmier 
title  indicates  merely  a  wild,  densely  wooded  region ;  the 
latter,  a    region   occupied   by  all  the  varied  scenery  ])er- 


^1 


124 

taining  to  a  most  remarkable  lake  and  mountain  system. 
This  wild  region  of  dense  forests,  majestic  mountains, 
maiinificent  lakes  and  beautiful  rivers,  lies  in  the  counties 
of  Herkimer,  Hamilton,  Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Clinton. 
Franklin  and  f^ssex,  and  aggregates  over  3,500,000  acres, 
a  tract  of  land  of  an  area  of  nearly  100  square  miles.  This 
region  is  the  only  primitive  hunting  and  fishing  ground  left 
in  New  York  state,  and  offering,  as  it  does,  rare  health- 
restoring  (jualities,  combined  with  excellent  deer  hunting, 
and  the  best  brook  and  lake  trout  fishing  accessible,  is 
yearly  more  than  doubling  its  number  of  visitors — in  fact, 
the  limit  is  only  measured  by  hotel  capacity.  It  is  not  our 
purpose,  nor  would  it  be  possible  in  so  small  a  work  as  this. 
to  go  into  details  as  to  the  wilderness,  but  guide  books  arc- 
easily  obtained,  and  from  one  of  them  w^e  take  the 
following  : 

"  The  Adirondack  wilderness,  as  known  to  the  publi( 
generally,  may  be  divided  into  three  general  divisions  or 
systems,  which  collectively  entertain  the  great  bulk  of 
visitors,  and  are  representative  of  the  whole,  namely,  tht- 
Saranac  and  St.  Regis  waters  of  Franklin  county,  wliosc 
natural  gateway  is  Plattsburg  and  Port  Kent ;  the  mountain 
region  of  Keene,  North  Flba  and  Lake  Placid,  in  Essex 
county,  with  entrance  at  Westport,  and  the  Blue  Mountaiii 
and  Raquetie  waters,  in  Hamilton  county,  reached  by  \\i\\ 
of  the  Adirondack  railroad  from  Saratoga. 

Of  these  sections  the  first  mentioned  has  become  the 
most  widely  celebrated  as  a  region  where  fashion  and  fish- 
ing is  admirably  blended,  and  has  its  patrons  who  are  looked 
for  as  regularly  as  the  seasons.  The  second  is  less  known 
in  fact,  but  its  grand  mountains  and  lovely  valleys  have  he- 


i    aiff 


m 


125 


ystem. 
iitains, 
)unties 
linton. 
I  acres. 
This 
nd  left 
health - 
minting, 
jible,  is 
in  fact, 
not  oui 
as  this. 
)oks  arc 
ake  the 

J  publii 
sions  or 
bulk  of 
lely,  the 
whose 
lountain 
n  Essex 
^ountairi 
by  way 


come  familiar  on  the  canvas  of  our  great  painters  ;  while 
the  Raquette  region  has  an  air  of  newness  and  morning 
freshness,  as  if  just  awakened  from  a  long  and  refresliin*^- 
sleep,  and  is  making  rapid  strides  in  popular  favor.  Each 
section  while  possessing  something  of  the  characteristics  of 
the  others,  has  its  own  individual  attractions  ;  and  while 
connected  by  natural  highways,  over  which  the  nomad  often 
goes,  they  still  to  a  considerable  extent,  preserve  their  in- 
dividuality, and   each  is  complete  and  sufficient  unto  itself. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  Adirondack  region  is  its  freedom  from 
rough  or  vicious  characters.  Evil  finds  nothing  congenial 
in  its  bright  skies  and  pure,  fresh  atmosphere.  Convention- 
alities that  obtain  at  other  resorts  are  not  held  here,  and  it 
is  possible  for  gentlemen  to  wear  blue  shirts  and  soft  hats, 
and  for  ladies  to  travel  without  male  escort  other  than  the 
necessary  compliment  of  guides  to  furnish  motive  power, 
from  one  end  of  the  wilderness  to  the  other. 

Full  dress  is  seldom  seen,  even  at  the  most  fashionable 
resorts,  and  is  exceeded  in  absurdity  only  by  the  conven- 
tional "stage  trapper,"  who  occasionally  burst  upon  the 
astonished  wilderness  in  fringed  bucksin.  Your  right  to 
enter  the  best  society  will  not  be  questioned  because  of 
dress.  Clothing  ordinarily  worn  is  sufficient  for  all  occa- 
sions here." 

The  Adirondack  region  is  steadily  growing  in  favor  as  a 
resort  for  persons  afflicted  with  throat  and  lung  troubles  ; 
and  while  it  is  not  by  any  means  a  sure  cure  for  all,  how- 
ever deeply  seated  the  disease  may  have  become,  yet  if  per- 
sons so  afflicted  will  go  there  in  time,  they  will  find  the  dry, 
pure  air,  impregnated  as  it  is  with  balsam  and  pine,  to  be 
of    infinite    relief,  and  many   living    witnesses   are    there 


126 

found  to  prove  its  benefits.  Several  articles  have  been 
written  u])on  this  subject  which  mislead  the  public,  and,  in 
conse(juence,  many  people,  past  all  possible  cure,  have  been 
sent  there,  with  only  natural  results.  We  would  only  say. 
consult  your  ])hysician,  and,  if  you  are  not  past  cure,  we 
believe  this  section  to  be  as  nearly  affording  a  remedy  as 
any  spot  on  the  continent. 

Places  of  entertainment,  from  the  well-appointed  hotel 
on  the  border  to  the  rude  log-house  and  open  camp  of  the 
interior,  are  found  at  short  intervals  throughout  the  entire 
wilderness,  all  waiting  with  open  doors  to  receive  the 
stranger. 

Guides  and  boats  may  be  had  at  all  the  hotels. 

Under  head  of  '•  Gateways  "  will  be  found  the  nearest 
points  reached  by  railroad  and  stage  routes,  distances,  etc. 
to  the  most  prominent  resorts. 

GATEWAYS. 


From  Plattsburg,    take   Chateaugay   Railroad,   thirty  six 
miles  to  Lyon   Mountain,  thence  by   stage  four  miles  t 
"•  Ralph's  "  on  upper  Chateaugay  Lake. 

From  Au  Sable  (20  miles  west  of  Plattsburg  on  branch 
railroad).  Stages  leave  here  every  morning  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) on  arrival  of  early  trains,  for  French's,  18  miles; 
Franklin  Falls,  20  miles  ;  Bloomingdale,  28  miles  ;  Loon 
Lake  House,  on  Loon  Lake,  28  miles  ;  Rainbow  House, 
on  Rainbow  Lake,  35  miles  ;  Martin's  on  Saranac  Lake. 
37  miles ;  Paul  Smith's,  on  St.  Regis  Lake,  38  miles  ;  Pros- 
pect House,  on  Saranac  Lake,  41  miles ;  Bartlett's,  on 
Saranac  Lake,  49  miles. 


127 


e  been 
and,  in 
ve  been 
nly  say. 
ure,  we 
nedy  as 

ed  hotel 
ip  of  the 
le  entire 
eive    the 


le  nearest 
nces,  etc. 


thirty  si\ 
r  miles  t 

on  branch 
undays  ex- 
18  miles; 
iles  ;  Lo'"^ 
)ow  House, 
-anac  Lake, 
niles;  Prus- 
artlettV,  on 


From  ElizAbethtown  delightful  trips  are  made  into  the 
mountain  region,  through  Keene  Valley  via  Indian  Pass, 
and  to  Au  Sable  Pond,  one  of  the  most  beautit'ul  si)ots  in 
the  wilderness,  also  by  North  Elba,  Lake  Placid  and  Wil- 
mington Notch,  passing  immediately  under  the  shadow  of 
Whiteface  and  Haystock  Mountains,  and  out  at  Au  Sable 
station,  or  return  to  Elizabethtown. 

FACILITIES  FOR  LAKE  TRAVEL. 

The  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  a  rci^ular 
line  of  steamboats  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  making 
three  round  trips  daily  (except  Sundays),  and  stoi)ping  at 
all  way  landings.  The  Horicon  of  this  line,  making  the  re- 
regular  connections  with  the  railroad,  is  a  fine  side-wheel 
steamer  203  feet  long  and  52  feet  wide  over  all,  and  is  643 
tons  burden,  and  will  accomodate  comfortably  1,000  peo- 
ple. I  can  truthfully  say  that  upon  no  inland  lake  in  the 
world  is  the  passenger  service  so  promptly  and  regularly 
(lone,  and  passengers  so  elegantly  cared  for  as  upon  Lake 
George. 

Caldwell  is  the  railroad  terminus,  and  is  the  largest  town 
on  the  lake.  It  is  situated  at  the  extreme  southeni  end.  or 
head  of  the  lake  (the  waters  flowing  north  and  empt}'ing 
into  Lake  Champlain,  immediately  at  the  ruins  of  old  Fort^ 
Ticonderoga).  Here,  at  Caldwell,  is  located  the  handsome 
dock  and  depot  building  of  the  railroad  compan}-,  whose 
trains  run  down  the  dock  immediately  to  the  steamers — one 
of  which  leaves  upon  the  arrival  of  each  train  for  all  ])oints 
down  the  lake.  The  railroad  was  extended  to  this  point 
last  season,  thus  saving  at  least  one  hour  of  time  and  better 
facilities  for  the  accomodation  of  tourists  and  pleasure 
tra\el. 


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128 


^^^Ito. 


E}l^iiAGAMOKE},^» 


On  Green  Island,  Lake  George. 


C'ouuected  witli  Maiu  Laud  by  Bridge. 


This  sjileiidid  new  Hotel  is  opeu  for  guests  from  early  in  June  until  tlie 
last  week  in  October.    It  is  supplied  with 

« 

Passenger  Flevator, 

Electric  Lights  in  every  Roonn. 

And  all  the  Latest  Conveniences. 

'jf  Its  Situation  is  tlie  Finest  on  the  Lake,  i> 

EXCELLENT  TABLE.    REASONABLE  KATES. 

Easy  of  access  by  boat  from  Oaldwi il,  where  trains  with  palace 
cars  arrive  from  Saratoga,  New  York  and  intermediate  points  sev- 
eral timee  daily. 

For  descriptive  circular  and  plans  of  rooms,  address 

ivi.    O.    BROWN, 

LESSEE  AND  PROPRIETOR, 


Lake  George,  Warren  Co.,  N.  Y.         BOLTON  LANDING  P.  0. 


until  ihr 


eniences. 


.e, 


4?. 


h  palate 
Ints  sev- 


:0R 


IG  P.  0. 


129 
LAKE  GEORGE. 

Every  American,  or  tourist,  should  see  it  at  least  once. 
It  is  the  largest  of  the  Adirondack  chain.  346  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  247  above  Cham])lain,  35  miles  lou^^r  ^nd 
from  two  to  four  in  width,  and  (i^d  from  mountniu  brooks 
and  springs  coming  up  from  the  bottom,  making  it  lrausi)ar- 
cnt.  It  is  beautifully  dotted  with  over  200  islands,  and 
surroimded  by  liigh  mountains,  some  rising  2.000  feet  above 
the  water,  clothed  with  foliage  and  dotted  with  villas  and 
l)icturesque  camps  ;  one  feels  like  leaving  the  boat  and  re- 
maining in  this  bower  of  enchantment.  The  steamer 
touches  at  all  points  of  note  and  arrives  at  the  Sagamore 
House,  and  those  who  desire  to  remain  and  enjoy  the  beau- 
ful  spot  we  advise  them  to  stay  at  the 

SAGAMORE  HOUSE, 

on  Green  Island,- Lake  George,  it  is  connected  with  a  bridge 
to  the  main  shore,  and  is  by  many  points  a  superior  resort. 
The  Sagamore  is  the  largest  and  latest  built  of  all  Hotels  in 
this  vicinity,  and  it  contains  more  modern  built  improve- 
ments than  any  hotel  at  Lake  George,  conibining  as  it  does^ 
the  grandest  views,  the  most  picturesque  scenery,  boating 
and  bathing,  with  rambles  through  groves,  woods,  fields  and 
mountains,  one  can  never  tire  of  such  varied  recreation. 
Vour  stay  will  be  made  more  pleasant  if  you  mention  to  the 
proprietor  that  you  was  advised  by  the  "  Phat  Boy"  or  read- 
ing this  book  to  remain  over.  I  am  confident  you  will  never 
regret  it.  Connections  are,  however,  arranged  for  and  you 
can  if  you  wish,  leave  immediately  for 


130 


lu 


,.     „j, 


HENRY    CLAIR, 


LESSEE. 


^}cGRAND3|E^ 

UNION  I  HOTEL. 


OPE\    FRdxlI    Jl  ^'E  TO  OCTOBEH. 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 


131 


L. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

the  focus    to  which   the  fashionable  world  of  the  United 
States,  indeed,  of  Europe  is  annually  drawn.     Here  are  in- 
tellectual men,  stylish  men  the  beaux  of  society,  and  the 
man  of    the  world ;    ladies  of    social  rank,  the  managing 
mother,  the  marriageable  daughters,  the  flattering  bee  of 
fashion,  and    the  more    gentle  bird  of   beauty,  are  found 
amidst    the   throng,  for    Saratoga    is  cosmopolitan.     As  a 
gentleman  said  to  me  one  day,  "  I  can  meet  more  of  my 
friends  in   one  hour  during  the  season  at  Saratoga,  than  1 
could  at  home  in  a  week."     The  ladies  here  have  ample 
opportunities  to  display  their  peculiar  charms  and  graces. 
The  sporting  gentleman  can  also  find  an  opportunity  to 
gratify  his  peculiar  tastes  ;  tiie  philosopher  may  study  Ini- 
man  nature  ;  theinvahd  find  perfect  health  ;  in  fact  every  one 
at  Saratoga  finds  that   peculiar  pleasure  they  most  desire. 
Of  all  the  elegant  hotels  which  here  abound  we  have  not 
space  to  mention.     1    will,  therefore,  speak    of    those    I 
know,  the   United   States,  Grand  Union,  and  Adelphi,  con- 
fident they  can  please  any  one  paying  them  a  visit. 

The  Grand  Union  Hotel  is  the  great  hou.^e  of  Saratoga, 
having  a  frontage  of  i8oo  feet ;  the  massive  tower  which 
rises  in  the  centre  is  200  feet  high  to  the  summit,  reveafing 
a  landscape  of  75  miles  in  circumference  of  wonderous  beau- 
ty. It  will  accommodate  1,300  guests  comfortably  ;  it  has  all 
modern  im])rovemeats.  To  give  )'ou  an  idea  of  its  magni- 
tude ;  its  piazzas  are  over  a  mile  in  length;  halls,  two 
miles ;  carpets,  ten  acres  ;  number  of  rooms,  eleven  hund- 
red. Over  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been  expend- 
ed in  decorating,  re-furnishing  and  embellishing  its  grounds. 


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Its  Cuisine  is  perfection.  The  garden  or  lawn  parties  given 
at  this  hotel  are  the  recherche  event  of  the  season.  The 
lessee  of  this  establishment  is  Mr.  Henry  Clair,  who  is  also 
lesee  of  the  MetropoUta.n  and  Park  Avenue  Hotels  \e\v 
York  ;  the  latter  is  the  only  absolute  fire-i)roof  liotel  in 
America.  The  court,  which  is  one  hundred  feet  square, 
has  electric  lights.  The  garden  is  a  superb  bower  of  beau- 
ty, summer  and  winter.  The  house  has  over  six  hundred 
rooms  and  can  accommdate  eight  hundred  guests.  The 
library  connected  has  five  thousand  volumes,  accessible  to 
guests  ;  the  location  is  Fifth  Avenue,  Thirty-Second  and 
Thirty-Third  streets,  New  York.  The  leap  into  public  huor 
of  this  popular  hotel  during  the  past  year  is  astounding. 

THE  UNITED  STATES  HOTEL. 


This  palatial  hotel,  the  summer  residence  of  the  most  re- 
fined circle  of  American  fashion  and  society,  and  equaling 
in  magnificence  the  finest  summer  resort  of  the  old  weld. 
was  built  upon  the  grounds  of  the  old  L'nited  States  Hotel, 
which  was  the  famous  establishment  in  its  da\',  but  was  dc- 
situyed  by  fire  in  1864.  .\nd  many  a  prominent  man  to- 
day c  111  look  back  upon  the  hajjpy  memories  of  the  old  ])lace 
and   recall  scenes  of  pleasure,  the  greenest  in  his  memory. 

The  United  States  Hotel  of  to-day,  is  o\\^  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent hotel  structures  in  the  world,  the  architecture  is 
of  Norman  style,  and  is  both  elegant  and  beautiful  in  all  the 
riune  implies,  it  covers  and  encloses  seven  acres  of  ground. 

u  the  shape  of  an  irregular  pentagon.  The  •■  Cottage 
W  ing "  on  the  south  side  exten<ls  west  from  the  main 
front  five  hundred  and  sixtv-six  feet,  this  is  a  most  desirable 


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featiire,  as  it  affords  not  only  families  but  otliers  who  de- 
sire the  seclusion  of  a  home  with  the  conveniences  of  a  first 
class  hotel.  The  rooms  are  arranged  with  from  one  to 
seven  bed-rooms,  with  parlors,  bath  and  closet  to  please  any 
taste. 

The  main    entrance  to    the    United  States   hotel  is   on 
Broadway,  in  which  is   located  the   elegant  drawing-room, 
superbly  furnished  with  Axminster  carpets,  covered  walnut 
furniture,  frescoed  ceilings,  costly  mirrors,  lace  curtains  and 
chandeliers.     Across  the  hall  is  r.  rich  and  exquisitely  furn- 
ished ladies  parlor  ;  on  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Division 
streets  is  the  reading  room  and  the  business  offices  of  the 
hotel,  beyond  which  is  the  capacious  dining-room,  sixty-two 
feet  wide  by  two  hundred  and  twelve  feet  long,  twenty-two 
feet  high,  adjoining  which   are,  private  drawing-rooms  the 
the  children's  ordinary,  carving   rooms   and  kitchen,  which 
is  said  to  be  the  most   complete  in  the  world.     It  has  over 
900  rooms  and  can  accommodate  1,300  guests.     The  (Irand 
Ball  Room,  one    hundred  and   twelve    by   fifty-three  feet, 
tvrenty-six    feet  high,  is    on    the   second  floor   of  Division 
street. 

No  other  hotel  in  the  world  presents  the  features  for 
promenades,  with  such  extensive  piazzas,  courts  and  gar- 
dens, ornamented  with  all  that  nature,  art  and  mone\-  could 
lavish  upon  a  scene,  the  whole  made  brilliant  bv  the  jcnous 
happy  throng  of  humanity,  representing  the  wealth,  culture. 
and  refinement  of  America.  This  immense  establishment 
is  under  the  personal  supervision  of  gentlemen  of  recognized 
ability  and  experience,  Mr.  H.  Tompkins,  Mr.  J.  L.  Perry, 
Mr.  W.  B.  Gage  and  L.  H.  Jauvin.  and  is  open  from  June 
15  th  until  Oct.  I  St,  each  year. 


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Congress    Hall    was    purchased  in    iST-S   by   Mr.   \\\  ]\ 
Clement,  of  Cincinnati,   Ohio,  and  Mr.  John' Cox.  of  New 
York,  who  have  placed  it  under  permanent  management. 

Congress  Hall  is  built  of  brick,  with  brown-stone  trim- 
mmgs  The  roof  is  a  mansard,  with  three  pavilions,  winch 
alfords  wide  and  delightful  views  from  the  j^romenadcs  on 
top.  Interior  fire-walls  are  provided  to  i^revent  the  spread 
of  fire,  and  Otis  elevators  afford  easy  access  to  all  the  Ht^ois 
of  the  house.  The  rooms  are  all  large,  high  and  well  veiii- 
ilated,  and  properly  provided  with  annunciators,  gas.  ar. 
The  halls,  dining-rooms,  parlors  and  offices  are  o\  grand 
proportions,  and  are  furnished  with  an  elegance  that  be- 
speaks comfort  and  neatness  in  all  its  dei)artments.  l^he 
ventilation  of  the  dining-room  and  kitchen  has  been  much 
unproved,  and  a  steam  heating  ,  pparatus  intnxluced  on  the 
main  floor  for  use  whenever  changes  in  the  temjjerature  re- 
quire it.  Hot  and  cold  water  have  been  carried  to  every 
floor,  and  a  large  number  of  baths  and  chjsets  added  for 
tiie  convenience  of  guests.  The  ball-room  of  the  Congres.^^ 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  Northern  New  \'ork,  being  mos^t  ex- 
quisitely frescoed  and  adorned  with  costly  chandeliers  an<l 
ornaments.  It  is  in  the  block  across  Sj)ring  street,  but  is 
connected  with  the  North  wing  of  the  hotel  b\  a  Yihi- 
graceful  iron  bridge  susj^ended  over  the  street,  projieriy 
covered  and  protected,  which  when  illuminated  on  hoj) 
nights,  is  very  pictures(iue.  Will  acconunodate  fifteen 
hundred. 

The  Adelphi  Hotel.— This  new,  comfortable  and  j-etite 
hotel  is  located  on  Broadwa}-.  adjoining  the  United  States. 
contains  one  hundred  rooms,  is  convenient  to  the  springs. 
etc..  etc.     Its  piazza  is  elevated  one  stor}-  abo\e   the   street 


138 


STANDA[|D  MINER/L  WATEI) 

:ATHARTI3,  alterative,   a  Specific  fcr   Disc: 

lera  ci    the  STOMACH,  LIVER    anl  KIDNEYS, 

EOZEMA,  MALARIA  and    all   Impurities 

CI  the  BLOOD. 


it 


So  Hiiviahle  a  name  has  this  famous  Mineral  Water  that  the  managei's  of 
inferior  Mineral  Spriuj:?s.  desirous  of  imitatiiifi:  the  natural  purity  of  the 
bottleil  water  of  Congress  Spring,  inject  a  powerful  acid  in  their  bottled 
watt'r  to  jjreserve  the  crude  ingredients  in  .solution— being  so  heavil_y  laden 
with 

LIME  AND  IRON  DEPOSIT. 

■\Vith  such  contrivances,  bogus  testimonials  and  doctored  analysis  cards 
they  seek  to  rival  the  pure  3Iedicinal  Waters  of  Congress  Spring. 

The  regular  season  visitors  to  Saratoga  fully  understand  these  crude, 
liarsh  waters,  many  of  them  after  painful  e.xperiences.  In  Prooi'  <►! 
tliiw    we  can    Produce  a  GRK.VT  .IIANY    RESPO^SIBLIC 

\.VI?IES.     But  the  Saratoga  visitors  without  experience,  and  many  wli'* 
use  the  bottled  waters  (often  labelled  as  curatives  for  disorders  which  they 
positively  aggravate),  should  remember  that  crude,  harsh  Mineral   Wateis 
produce  headache,  a  sense  of  burning  and  internal  irritation,  and  do  inc 
parable  injury  to  the  digestive  organs  and  kidneys. 

COXGIIESS  WATER,  TURE,  NATURAL  AXI)  RELIABLE. 

NONE  GENUINE  SOLD  ON  DRAUGHT. 

l<'or  Salo  by  DriiuuiNtw,  CriHX'oriti,  AViiie  :?Ioroliaiit«  and 
HotelN. 


SIS  ear<ls 


and  commands  a  splendid  view  ui,  and  down  liroadway.  as 
well  as  Phila  street  opi)osite.  The  proprietor.  Mr.  W  ni.  H. 
McCaffrey,  is  too  well  known  to  t'x^  traveling  community  to 
need  one  word  from  me,  and  the  gentlemen  connected  with 
the  office  and  other  departments  of  the  house,  are  too  well 
qualified  by  being  the  choice  of  the  i)roprietor,  to  need 
commendation.  It  is  •'  my  home  "  when  in  Saratoga;  that 
is  all  I  have  to  say  against  it.  It  is  the  universal  opinion 
of  tourists,  that  no  watenng  place  on  the  continent,  of  like 
size,  can  compare  with  the  unwearvino  charms  of  SaratO'^a. 
The  hotel  arrivals  some  days  are  upwards  of  one  thousand- 
One  might  become  almost  tired  of  the  world  and  \ote  every 
other  place  a  bore,  but  Saratoga  scenery,  Saratoga  atmos- 
phere and  Saratoga  life  would  still  charm  by  its  ever  pleas- 
ing peculiarities.  Saratoga  contains  10,000  inhabitants. 
and  in  the  summer  season  every  private  house  is  turned  into 
a  boarding  house  of  one  or  the  other  class,  and  therefore 
boarding  houses  abound — no  space  to  mention  all  of  them 
here. 

The  Windsor  Hotel,  Saratoga.— This  house  was 
built  in  the  spring  of  1876.  and  is  opened  on  or 
about  the  first  of  June  each  year  ;  its  location  corniT 
Broadway  and  Williams  street.  It  lias  a  commanding 
view  of  Broadway,  the  main  street  of  the  village.  It  is 
owned  by  Judge  Hilton,  and  the  Lessee  is  Mr.  Henry  Clair, 
of  New  York.  It  is  the  first  house  of  its  kind  oj)ened  in 
earlv  June,  in  order  to  accommodate  the  hidues  of  the 
Court  of  Appeals — the  highest  Court  in  the  State — which 
convenes  here  about  that  time  every  year.  It  is  the  home 
of  the  Judges  and  their  families,  as   well   as   all   the   distin- 


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141 

guished   lights   of  the    legal  j^rofession  during  the  season 
From  its  observatory  may  be  had  the  most  s])len(Htl  view  of 
the    surrounding    country.     The    house    is    first  class,    lias 
accommodations   for  three  hundred  guests,  and  except   in 
size  will  compare  with  the  larger  hotels. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  springs.  First  in  the  list  is  the 
old  and  ever  popular  Congress  and  F^npire  Springs.  Con- 
gress Spring  was  discovered   nearly  a  century  ago — 1792 

by  Hon.  James  Taylor,  member  of  Congress  from  New 
Hampshire.  The  park  connected  with  the  springs  is  beau- 
tifully laid  out  with  walks,  groves,  flowers,  trees,  and  ponds 
in  which  speckled  trout  abound,  fountains,  statuary,  live 
deer,  etc.,  etc.;  where  night  and  day  the  beauty  and  fashion 
come  for  pleasure  and  to  imbibe  the  water  of  Congress 
and  Columbia  Springs,  which  are  within  the  enclosure. 
Empire  Spring,  belonging  to  the  same  comi)any,  is  located 
at  the  junction  of  Sprmg  Avenue  and  Circular  street.  This, 
and  Congress  Water,  were  at  one  time  the  only  waters  bot- 
tled at  Saratoga,  and  sold  the  world  over.  Those  who  are 
posted,  come  here  and  drink,  thus  avoiding  those  waters  of 
other  springs  which  are  irritating  in  their  nature  and  harsh 
and  inflammable  to  the  stomach,  injuring  the  kidneys  and 
producing  results  irreparable, 

HATHORN   SPRINGS 


was  accidentally  discovered  in  1869,  and  is  named  after  the 
Hon.  H.  H.  Hathorn,  its  ;wner  ;  it  is  a  powerful  cathartic- 
The  water  is  bottled  for  sale,  and  is  probably  the  most  solid 
water  known,  as  it  is  said  to  contam  eight  liundred  and 
eighty-eight  grains  solid  contents  to  a  gallon. 


142 


EXCELSIOR   SPRINGS   AND   PARK, 


some  distance  from  town,  as  well  as  others  I  shall  mention, 
you  can  visit  when  you  take  a  drive.  Washington  Sprin<: 
is  on  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  hotels.  Crystal  Pavilion. 
High  Rock,  Star.  Seltzer.  Red,  A  Spring,  Geyser,  or  s_ 
ing  spring,  Robert  Ellis.  The  Vichy,  "  The  Chamjjioii 
spouting  spring,"  Hamilton,  Putnam,  Flat  Rock,  Magnetic. 
Sulphur,  Iron,  and  Diamond,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others 
which  have  just  been  discovered,  or  may  have  been  betort 
this  reaches  you.  l(,  however,  you  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  springs  herein  mentioned,  all  I  ask  is  for  you  to  visit 
the  ones  mentioned  as  I  did,  and  accept  the  cordial  invi- 
tation of  each  to  take  a  glass,  and  if  you  do  not  feel  the 
next  day  that  there  are  springs  enough  at  Saratoga,  "our 
feelings  will  be  different  from  the  sensation  felt  b;  e 
writer  of  this  article,  by  a  large  majority.  The  drives  ni 
this  \icinity  are  numerous.  The  road  to  the  cemeter\ 
(which  I  am  informed,  by  one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  in 
order  to  start  they  were  obliged  to  borrow  a  corpse  from  an 
adjoining  county,  and  now  a  select  few  who  wish  to  die 
happy  come  and  are  decently  interred,)  has  been  improved, 
so  that  the  drive  there  is  very  much  enhanced  thereby.  B\- 
far  the  prettiest  drive,  however,  is  through  Broadway  from 
Highland  Hill  for  two  miles  to  Glen  Mitchell.  The  most 
fashionable  drive  is  that  to  the  lake.  Immense  sums  of 
money  have  been  expended  to  widen  and  beai  tify  this 
drive,  which  is  loo  feet  wide  and  shaded  with  trees,  and  is 
sprinkled  to  lay  the  dust.  Visitors  pass  up  on  one  side  and 
down  the  other.  Saratoga  Lake  is  eight  miles  long  and 
two  and   one-half  wide.     On  an  eminence  on   the  western 


143 

shore  is  Afoon's  Lake  House,  proverbial  for  its  sunii)tu()us 
game  siii.)pers.  Parties  fond  of  fishing  or  l)oating  can  enjoy 
this  favorite  pastime  to  their  full  extent.  Its  fitness  for 
aapiatic  sports  has  been  verified  by  the  many  events  u( 
that  nature  which  have  taken  j^lace  on  its  ]ilacid  waters 
since  187 1,  when  the  Ward  brothers  vancjuished  two  Eng- 
lish crews  selected  from  the  best  professional  oarsmen  of 
Great  Britain.  Racing  is  the  turf  event  of  the  year,  and 
cannot  be  described  here,  only  mentioned. 

Life  at  Saratoga  is  two  fold — Home  and  Hotel.  The 
former  is  enjoyed  by  its  citizens  who  possess  some  of  the 
most  luxurious,  refined  and  elegant  houses  to  l)e  found  in 
the  United  States.  Hotel,  or  fashionable  life  is  ej^hem- 
eral  in  its  nature,  and  like  the  be  lutiful  butterliv  its  dura- 
tion  is  short.  In  these  few  brief  months  wealth,  beauty- 
fashion  and  other  ingredients  not  so  desirable,  intermingle, 
and  amid  the  gay  whirl  and  excitement  of  the  ball-room  at 
night  one  is  in  a  constant  ecstacy.  From  his  visit  to  the 
springs  in  the  morning,  promenades  or  drives  in  the  after- 
noon, the  music,  lawn  sociable,  and  glittering  fireworks  at 
night,  one  wonders  what  time  there  is  for  even  nature's 
balmy,  sweet  restorer — sleep.  Anticipating  your  stay  at 
Saratoga  to  have  come  to  an  end,  you  can  depart  for  Al- 
bany any  morning  via  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s 
R.  R.,  or  West  Shore  R.  R.,  who  run  solid  trains  to  and 
from  Saratoga  to  New  York,  and  New  York  to  Saratoga, 
Pullman  Buffet  cars.  Some  having  tickets  to  New  York 
bv  rail  or  boat,  and  desire  to  visit  Boston,  I  advise  evervone 
to  take  the  Fall  River  Line  to  Boston.  If  you  have  tickets 
to  Boston  via  Albany,  take  the  Boston  and  Albany  Rail- 
road, which  is  first-class. 


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NEW  YORK. 

To  those  visiting  \e\v  York  for  the  first  time,  a  few 
words  of  advice  mav  not  come  amiss.  1  therefore  suuirest 
arriving,  if  possible,  by  daylight.  Everyoi^e  in  the  city 
minds  their  own  business,  a  credit  in  some  ways  •  but  some 
people  make  it  their  business  to  tleece  the  stranger.  I 
would,  therefore,  say  keep  your  own  counsel.  If  informa- 
tion be  required,  ask  a  policeman.  Upon  arrival,  take  cars 
or  stage,  if  possible,  to  destination.  If  you  desire  any  of 
the  hotels  represented  in  this  work,  you  will  always  find  one 
or  more  trusty  porters  at  trains  or  boats.  Avoid,  if  j)ossi- 
ble,  the  hacks,  unless  you  make  a  fair,  scjuare  bargain  be- 
fore entering  the  vehicle  ;  your  trunk  or  valise  may  accom- 
pany you  with  carriage.  You  will  always  find  u[)on  all 
trains  or  boats,  courteous  agents  of  the  different  baggage 
express  companies,  who  will  take  your  cheek,  giving  a  re- 
ceipt for  the  same,  which  relieves  you  and  saves  much  trou- 
ble and  annoyance,  as  their  delivery  system  is  prompt  and 
their  charges  a  stipulared  price  ;  no  deviation,  except  for 
quantity. 

Something  should  be  said  here  regarding  the  metropolis 
of  the  American  Continent,  but  space  as  well  as  time  pre- 
vents. As  everything  seen  here  is  in  grandeur  superior  to 
elsewhere,  the  impression  made  upon  the  mind  while  here 
will  be  everlasting,  I  shall  not  try  to  befog  the  mind  with  as 
meager  a  mention  as  1  am  capable  of  giving,  but  simply 
mention  three  of  the  princii)al  hotels.  The  one  first  at 
hand  is  the  Grand  Union  Hotel.  42d  street,  near  the  (xrand 
Central  Depot.  Money-getting  being  the  chief  aim  of  life, 
its  proper  expenditure   should  not  )»rove  of  secondary  im- 


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ATTRACTIONS  OF  THE  GRAND  CENTRAL  HOTEL. 

This  Hotel  is  universally  acknowledged  the  coolest  in  New  York.  The 
Avide.  straight  lialls  running  from  Broadway  to  Blercer  street,  insure  perfect 
circulation  of  air.  The  five  large  and  elegant  parlors.  The  handsomely 
decorated  and  cheerftd  Dining  and  Supper  Rooms.  It  is  provided  with  two 
of  <>tis  it  Co.'s  celebrated  Elevators.  Six  outside  Fire  Escapes  have  been  re- 
cently added,  which,  with  Five  Wide  Stairways,  from  roof  to  ground  floor, 
makes  the  "  GUAM)  CENTRAL  HOTEL  ' 

The  Safest  Hotel  in  America. 

Earli    floor  in   tlic   biilldiiiu:    Im    iit^flitly    patrolled    by    » 
M'alcliiiiaii  "ivltli  a  tell-tale  eloek. 


147 


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portance.  The  travel  consumes  a  much  larger  portion  of 
our  finances  than  it  should,  is  evident  from  the  fart  that 
but  few  possess  the  secret  of  retrenching  in  this  direction. 
Two  important  factors  of  expense  in  travel  is  carria-e  hire 
and  transfer  of  baggage,  and  that  the  tra\eling  ind^lic  is 
more  generally  becoming  disposed  to  throw  oft"  their  former 
burden,  is  patent  from  the  army  of  guests  who  dall>-  register 
at  and  fill  the  6oo  rooms  (reduced  to  $i.oo  and  upwards 
per  day),  at  the  Grand  Union  Hotel,  opposite  the  (xrand 
Central  Depot,  New  York  City.  Its  European  plan,  ele- 
gant restaurants,  cafe,  lunch  and  wine  rooms,  unexcelled, 
cuisine,  moderate  prices,  courteous  treatment,  unchallcn^red 
management,  coupled  with  its  guests  incurrmg  no  ex])ense 
for  carriage  hire,  or  baggage  transfer,  with  elevated  rail- 
way, horse  cars  and  stages  to  all  parts  of  the  city,  passing 
its  doors,  renders  the  Grand  Union  one  of  the  most  desira- 
ble of  homes  for  travelers  in  the  city,  and  also  established 
its  success  and  world-famed  populariiy. 

The  next  on  the  list  is  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  Broad- 
way, one  of  the  largest  in  the  city.     It  has  lately  beei^i  re- 
fitted, re-decorated  and  re-furnished,  and  under  its  present 
projjrietors,  Messrs.  Keefer  &  Co.,  is  receiving   the   patron- 
age its  merits  deserve.     It  is  run  on  the   American  and  Eu- 
ropean plans,  so  that  anyone  can   be  pleased.     Its  graded 
prices,    its  location   and  appointments,    together    with  the 
friends  one  meets  here  (as  it  is  patronized  by  more  South- 
erners than   any  hotel  in   New   York),  makes  ii  a  i)leasan 
place  for  tourist  or  traveler.     I  make  it  my  home  when  in 
the  city,  and   feel  confident  you   will  be  pleased  and  recom- 
mend your  friends  there  after  a  visit,  the  same  as  I  do  you. 
There  was  some  talk  of  changing  the  name  of  this  "  land. 


148 

The  Favorite  Route  for  Fashionable  Pleasure  Travel 


UTICA  &  BLACK  RIVER  R.R. 

THE    CXLY    ALL-RAIL    ROUTE 

To  THE  Thousand  Islands, 


:3  all  p3in.t3  in  Kortliern  Ksw  York,  Rivsr 
St.  Lawrence  anl  Canala. 


This  line  is  pre-emineutly  the  route  for  Tourist  travel,  and  was  constructed 
with  that  end  in  view.  It  runs  via  Utica,  ]\Iohawk  River.  Cincinnati  Creek, 
Trenton  Falls.  Highlands  of  Brown's  Tract.  The  Sunset  Slope  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  Sugar  River.  Black  River,  and  Indian  River  to  the  River  St.  T>aw- 
rence.    It  is  popularly  known  as  the  Elegant  Line  to  the  Islands,  and  it  is 

ABSOLUTELY  THE  ONLY  SCENIC  ROUTE. 

During  the  Summer  season  elegantly  equipped  fast  trains  are  run  be- 
tween Utica  and  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  These  solid  trains  are  com- 
pletely eiiuipped  with  Westinghouse  Automatic  Air  Brakes,  make  quick  time 
and  very  few  stops.  They  are  run  expressly  for  the  Tourist  Travel,  and 
carry  elegant  new  Through  Coaches  and  Dra wing-Room  Cars.  They  are  in 
every  respect  first-class  trains.* 

Wagner  Sleeping  Cars  leave  New  York  9:00  p.  m. 
Wagner  Drawing  Room  Cars  leave  Albany  8:25  a.  m.^ 

And  Run  to  Clayton  Without  Change. 

Immediate  connection  is  made  at  Claj'ton  with  fast  passenger  steamboats 
landing  passengers  directly  in  front  of  hotels  at  Round.  Iftilatid, 
Thoitjtiand  Island  Park,  AVeftitniinster  Park,  Alexandria 
Bay,  and  all  Tlionsand  Island  Resorts. 

EXCrRSIOX    TICKETS    AT    AL.Ii    OFFICES. 

If  you  cannot  get  them  buy  to  Utica  only.-  This  is  the  all-rail  conxect- 

IXO   LINE  WITH  THE  St.    LaWRENCE  StEA.AIBOAT  COMPANY  STEAMERS  FOR   MON- 
TREAL. 

3   Express  Trains  leave  Clayton  Daily. 

Wagner  Drawing  Room  Cars  Clayton  to  Albany.  Wagner  Sleeping  Cars 
Clayron  to  New  York  direct,  and  iinmediate  connection  for  Saratoga,  Rich- 
tield.  Boston,  and  New  England  Points.  Niagara  Falls,  Chicago  and  theAVest. 

The  illustrated  l)()ok.  "Routes  and  Rates  for  Summer  Tours,"' 100  pages, 
profusely  ilkistrated.  and  containing  maps.  lUi  ot  hotels,  and  routes  and 
rates  for  Sim.)  tours,  will  be  mailed  to  any  address  upou  receipt  of  10  cents 
postage.  It  is  the  best  l)ook  given  awa^'.  Send  'or  a  copy  before  deciding 
upon  your  sununer  trip. 

E.  A.  VAN  HORN, 


General  ,Siiiienntendent. 


THEO.  BUTTtRFIELD, 

General  Pannengcr  Agent,  (Jtica,  X.  Y. 


L*^i 


149 

mark  "  on  account  of  the  thorouo;h  chaniie  in  tlic  hotel  and 
management,  although  I  confess  it  would  be  applica])lc  to 
the  situation,  as  everything  else  has  l)een  changed,  it  wouid 
be  better  for  its  patrons  to  advertise  the  changes  than  the 
new  name.  Therefore,  no  matter  what  they  call  tlie 
Grand  Central,  it  will  please  you  as  a  hotel,  and  its  i)rices 
are  not  extravagant.  I  take  pleasure  in  mentioning 
here  "  The  old  Democratic  wStandard."  the  Metropolitan 
Hotel,  Broadway,  New  York.  Mr.  Henry  Clair,  the  lessee, 
has  more  hotels  under  his  sui)ervision  than  any  man  in  the 
world,  and  he  surprised  me  more  in  a  ten  minutes  inter- 
view than  any  man  ever  did.  He  is  a  ]:»erfect  encycloj)edia 
of  hotel  business.  Having  become  the  lessee  of  the  follow- 
ing hotels  ought  to  be  a  guarantee  that  what  the  public  de- 
sire they  will  find  at  the  Metropolitan.  Park  Avenue.  Xew 
York  ;  the  Grand  Union,  Saratoga  Springs  ;  and  the  Wind- 
sor, Saratoga.  I  would  like  to  say  liere  that  1  ])ul)lished 
this  book  and  advised  the  advertisers  therein  to  take  the 
space,  feeling  it  would  bring  back  to  them  four-fold  what 
they  paid  me.  It  will,  therefore,  aftbrd  me  pleasure  to 
have  you  mention  to  any  of  the  advertisers  that  it  was 
through  my  solicitation,  and  this  work  that  }'ou  favored 
them  with  your  patronage  ;  it  will  do  you  no  harm  and  bene- 
fit me. 

Those  tourists   who  go  to  Boston  from  Albany,  (jver  the 
Boston  and  Albany  Railroad,  will  find  it  a   first-class  route- 

BOSTON 


IS  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditions  and  historical  associa- 
tions, but  for  public  enteri)rise  and   social  culture,  educa- 


fi  ■  i, 


m 


■  'a 


Babies  Thrive  en  it. 


Ridge's  Food 

FOIl 

Infants  and  Invalids 

Is  a  c(jiK'entrate(l  prepar- 
ation of  wlieat,  and  is  so 
prepared  as  to  he  accept- 
able to  the  most  delictite 
stomach. 

lu  case  a  babe  cannot 
have  the  natural  supply. 
Kid^^es  Food  is  the  best 
substitute.  It  is  (luii-kly 
prepared,  and  therefore 
may  always  be  fresh  and 
of  uniforiii  richness.  By 
observing  the  spec'ud  d'l- 
nct'ioiix.  this  food  can  lie 
adapted  to  all  the  various 
needs  of  infantile  life. 
It  cannot  cause  acidity  or  wind 

For  young  children  it  is 
invaluable,  as  froru  its  pur- 
ity, strength,  and  great 
nourishing  properties,  be- 
ing peculiarly  and  thor- 
oughly cooked  in  its  manu- 
facture, it  will  furnish  a 
full  meal  for  a  growing 
child. 

It   JM  iioiirisliiiig;   Hntis- 

fyiiiKt  niid  cliildreii 

like  it 


Ridge's    Food    Ensures 
Happy  Childhood. 


It  lins  been  and 
!!«tili  Ih  the  uiiiiiii  of 
tiie  .>[niiiifiictiirerN, 
and  lias  the  indorse- 
ment of  the  luiblit'^ 
that 

RIDGE'S  FOOD 

is  the  most  reliable 
footi  in  the  world  for 
Infants  and  Child- 
ren. It  roinbines  all 
the  elements  for 
Perfect  Growth 
as   in   no    other. 


It  is  a  fact  that 
more  children 
have  been  saved 
and  successfully 
reared  by 

RIDGE'S  FOOD 

than  by  ALL  THE 
OTHER  FOODS 
COMBINED. 

Especially  in  cases  of  C'H(^LERA  INFANTUM,  Chronic  Diarrhoea,  and 
all  diseases  of  the  Bowels,  the  use  of  Ridge's  Food  is  invaluable.  Not  only 
has  it  an  agreeable  ilavor,  but  the  system  will  retain  and  assimilate  it  when 
everything  else  fails. 

A  r%|1f  nrC  ^w^^v'm^from  Prositration  of  the  system  SinA  General  Iklnl'ity 
iVlilU  Li  1  3  will  find  Ridge".s  Food  the  desideratum  for  weak  stomachs, 

being  easily  digested,  while  for  all  Sunuiier  Complaints,  as  a  dietetic. 

it  is  invaluable. 

l^YQpnpnripC  ^^'ill  find    J-^    RiDOEs    Food   every   qualification 
\J  I  i^llLJr   1  IviO  necessary,  as  it  is  a  stecun.  cfxiked  food,  wherein 

all  the  tlesh-foriuing  properties  are  retained.    Ridge's  Food  makes 

delicious  Blanc-Mauge,  Custards,  Etc. 

Kidffe's  Food  is  sold  by 
all  first-elass  DrngKists. 

In  cans,  ;i.1c,  «3c,  $1,'15 
and  $1.73.  Two  sizes  for 
Canadian  markets,  o5c,  &$1. 

Motliers  and  nurses,  send 
to  Manufacturers  for  pam- 
phlets (free)  on  ReariuR  of 
Children.  Set  of  cards  free 
for  stamp. 

WOOLRICfl  &  CO ,  Mannfacturers.  Palmer,  Mass. 


'51 

tional   and  literary  tacilities.     Boston  is  i)eriiliariy  Boston. 
and  naone  can  describe  its  public  private  or  natural  beau- 
ties in  the  space  allotted  me  here.     The  principal  si^rhts  are 
Bunker  Hill  monument,  Faneuil  Hall,  the  Common,  Public 
Garden,  old  and  new  State  houses,  Public  Library,  old  and 
new   South   Churches,  Natural   History   buildings.  Agricul- 
tural building,  Institute  of  Tecilmology.  now  Trinity  Church, 
Mount  Auburn,  Harvard   I'niversity  building,  Music  Hall, 
the   great  organ.  City   Hall,  hospitals  and  other  sights  too 
numerous  for  mention  here.     1 'rimountain,  or  Three  Moun- 
tains as  Boston  was  originally  called,  is  a  peninsula  of  about 
700  acres,  almost  surrounded  by  the  sea.     Its  climate  in  the 
hottest  part  of  seasons  is  deliciously  cool,  bracing  and  in- 
vigorating, and  it  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest  cities 
in  the  world.     Its  harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast,  is 
about  twenty  miles  long  by  eight  wide.     Its  many  islands 
and  coast  are  lined  with  thousands  of  delightful  summer  re- 
sorts, reached  by  numerous  railroads  and  steamboats  every 
hour  of  the  day,  forming  a  panorama  of  busy  life  and  ])lea- 
sure  to  be  seen   nowhere  else.     Its  drives  inland  are  none 
the   less  interesting  and  picturesciue,  whether   we   visit   the 
classic   shades  of   old    Harvard,    the    romantic    walks    at 
Wellesley,    or    the    hundred   delightful   suburltan    villages, 
whose   well  kept  streets,  bright  lawns,  and  elegant  gardens 
simply  reflect  the   elegance  and   taste  within  the  homes  of 
those  who  made  Boston  what  it  is.     The  excellent   horse- 
car  service  of  Boston  is   one  of  its  best  institutions.     \o- 
where  else  in  the  country  is  this   important  convenience  to 
visitors  so   complete  as  here.     The  broad,  handsome  open 
cars  reach  all  points  within  ten  miles  of  the  City  Hall,  imd 
give  visitors  a  most  delightful  opportunity  to  see  the  attrac- 
tions at  the  least  possible  charge. 


152 


l: 


M 


TAKE  THE  FALL  RIVER  LINE 


betwp:en 


:^1 


ii  <  I 


^rxA.  iF^LiL  :rx-^:bzu. 


SL'PEHB  NKW   IRON   STEAMER 


"  PILGRIM  " 


AND 


WORLD  RENOWNED  STEAMER. 


(( 


PROVIDENCE" 


I    : 


THK    (IRKAT    ROUTE    BETWEEN 

New  York  and  Boston, 

Washington,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  Lowell,  Fitch- 
hurg,  Lawrence,  Taunton,  Portland.,  Bangor,  Me., 
St.  John,  N.  B.,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  White  Moun- 
tains, Mount  Desert,  and  all  the  Moun- 
tain, Sea-Shore  and  Inland  Re- 
sorts of  New  England  and 
the  Provinces. 

Leave  NEW  Y<")RK.  from  Pier  2S.  Nt.ith  River,  fr>ot  of  Murray  Street,  at 

.5:00  p.  in.,  daily.  Sundays  included. 
Leave  B(;)STON.  from  Old  Colony  Depot,  eor.  South  and  Kneeland  Streets,  at 

():00  p.  m.  (Steamboat  Express i.    Sundays  7:00  p.  m. 


A/i)iex  Connertioti  to  and  f rota  Brookbjn  CDuf  Jersey  City. 

Only  49  Miles  of  Rail    Between  New  York  and 
Boston.    No  Night  Changes. 

'   Trains  equipped  with  the  "'  Westiaghouse  Air  Brake  and  Miller  Platform." 
Passengei's  by  this  route  have  a  fi'll  nioht's  rest  on  Palatial  Steamers, 

reac'iiug  New  York  or  Boston  at  a  seasonable  hour  in  the  morning,  and  in 

tiuie  for  early  connections  for  points  beyond. 
No  intermediate  landings  between  New  York  and  Fall  River  after  June 

2(3th. 


^SW  '^^''■^■-■^"i'  ■■ 


-Uw-V.''.   .    mi■^^^:'CU■i■.'% 


Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  emljraces  Boston 
proper,  East  Boston,  South  Boston.  Roxburv,  West  Rox- 
bury,  Brighton,  Charleston  and  Dorchester.  Boston 
proper,  or  old  Boston,  was  very  uneven  in  surface,  and 
originally  presenting  three  hills.  Bacon,  Copjys.  and  Fort., 
the  former  of  which  is  about  130  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
Indian  name  of  this  i)eninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaninj; 
*'  Sweet  Waters."  A  narrow  strip  of  land  called  the  -  Xeck."" 
joined  the  peninsula  to  the  main  land  ;  this  neck  was  for- 
merly oversowed  by  the  tide,  but  has  been  filled  in  and 
widened,  and  is  now  thickly  built  upon.  I'last  Boston  oc 
cupies  the  West  portion  of  xXoodle's  or  Maverick's  Island. 
Here  is  the  deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and  here  the  ocean 
steamers  chiefly  lie.  The  wharf  now  used  by  the  Cuijard 
steamers  is  1,000  feet  long.  South  Boston  extends  about 
two  miles  along  the  South  side  of  the  harbor,  an  arm  of 
which  separates  it  from  Boston  proper. 


The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Rev.  John 
Blackstone,  supposed  to  have  been  an  Episcopal  clergyman, 
and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.  Here  he  lived  until  1630.  when 
John  Winthrop  (afterward  the  first  Goxernor  of  Massa- 
cusetts)  came  across  the  ri\er  from  C'harlestown,  wher(^  he 
had  dwelt  with  some  fellow  emigrants  for  a  sliort  time. 
About  1635  Mr.  Blackstone  sold  his  (^laim  to  the  now  }jo]j- 
ulous  peninsula  for  ^30.  and  removed  to  Rhode  Island. 
The  first  church  was  built  in  1632  ;  the  first  wharf  in  1673. 
Four  years  later  a  post-master  was  appointed,  and  in  1704 
(April  24th)  the  first  newspaper,  called  ilie  Boston  Xoios 
Letter,  \\3i?>  published.  The  "  Boston  Massacre"  hap])ened 
March  5,  1770,  when  three  persons  were  killed  and  five 
wounded   by  the  fire  of  the  soldier}-.     In  1773  ihe  tea  was 


-  !'!i 


154 

destroyed  in  the  harbor,  and  Boston  bore  a  conspicuous 
l)art  in  the  oi)ening  scenes  of  the  Revohition.  The  city 
was  incorjiorated  in  1822,  with  a  population  of  45,000. 
which  had  increased  to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,850  in  i860, 
and  250,526  in  1870.  By  the  recent  annexation  of  the 
suburbs  of  Brighton,  Charlestown,  W  Roxbury,  etc.,  the 
population  has  been  increased  to  341,919,  (in  February, 
1876).  Population  362,876  in  1880.  On  the  9th  of 
November,  1872,  one  of  the  most  terrible  conllagrations 
ever  known  in  the  United  States  swept  away  the  principal 
business  portion  of  Boston.  The  fire  broke  out  on  Satur- 
day evening,  and  continued  until  noon  on  the  following 
day,  when  it  was  brought  under  control,  but  again  l)roke 
fortli  in  consequence  of  an  explosion  of  gas,  about  mid- 
night, and  raged  until  7  o'clock  Monday  morning.  The 
district  burnt  over,  extended  from  Summer  and  Bedford 
street  on  the  south,  to  near  State  street  on  the  north,  and 
from  Washington  street  east  to  the  harbor.  About  800  of 
the  finest  buildings  in  the  city  were  destroyed,  causing  a  loss 
of  $80,000,000. 


OBJECTS  OF  AN'^IQUARIAN  INTEREST. 


Among  "  buildings  with  a  history,"  the  most  interesting 
in  the  United  States,  next  to  Independence  Hall,  in  Phila- 
delphia, is  Faneuil  Hall.  The  famous  edifice,  the  "  cradle 
of  liberty."  is  in  Dock  Square,  which  also  has  an  historical 
fame  because  of  the  meetings  of  the  Revolutionary  patriots 
that  was  held  there.  The  building  was  erected  in  1742. 
by  Peter  Fanueil,  a  Hugenot  merchant,  and  by  him  pre- 
sented to  the  town.  Its  oriorinal  dimensions  were  100  bv 
40  feet.     Destroyed  by  fire  in  1761,  it  was  rebuilt  in  1763. 


d:) 


and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions  in  1805.  A  i'lill 
length  portrait  of  the  founder,  together  with  the  pictures  of 
Washington,  by  Stuart,  of  Webster,  by  Healey,  of  Samuel 
Adams,  l^y  Copeley,  and  portraits  of  JoJni  (^uinry  Adams, 
Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  and  (ro\crnor  Andrew, 
adorn  the  walls.  'I'he  basement  of  the  hall  is  a  market. 
The  old  State  House,  in  Washington  street,  at  the  head  of 
State  street,  was  erected  in  174S,  and  was  for  half  a  cen- 
tury the  seat  of  the  "  Great  and  General  Court  of  Massa- 
chusetts," being  the  building  of  which  such  frequent  men- 
tion is  made  in  revolutionary  annals.  It  has  long  been 
given  up  to  business  purposes,  the  interior  having  been 
completely  remodeled,  and  the  edifice  surmounted  by  a  roof 
which  has  wholly  destroyed  the  quaint  effect  of  the  original 
architecture.  Christ  Church  (f4)iscopal;.  in  Salem  street* 
near  Copp's  Hill,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having 
been  erected  in  1722.  It  has  a  lofty  steeple,  and  in  the 
tower  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  The  Old  South  Church, 
corner  of  Washington  and  Milk  streets,  is  an  object  of 
much  interest,  it  is  of  brick,  and  was  built  in  1729,  on  rhe 
site  where  the  first  edifice  of  the  society  had  stood  since 
1669.  The  church  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the 
heroes  of  '76,  and  during  the  British  occupation  of  the  city, 
was  -'^ed  as  a  place  for  cavalry-drill.  It  barely  escaped  the 
flames  m  the  great  fire.  The  Old  South  Society  having 
erected  anew  place  of  worship  on  Boylston  street,  near  the 
Hotel  Brunswick,  the  old  building  was  offered  for  sale, 
when  a  patriotic  efi"ort  among  the  people  originated  a  sub- 
scription for  the  purpose  of  raising  funds  to  secure  its  pre- 
servation. King's  Chapel  v^'nitarian).  corner  Tremont 
and  School  streets,  was   founded   in    i6<S6.  and  the  ])resent 


I 

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156 


^^ 


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Bowdoin  Square,  Boston,  Mass, 


OSTABIil^^HED    1847. 


Central  Location,  near  all  the  Principal  Business  Houses, 

Theatres,  &c. 


Horge   Cars  to  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  to  and  from 
all  the  railroad  stations  pass  the  door. 


T/ic  House  still  retains  its  old  time  /         .  ation 
for  excellence  of  table  and  service. 

CHAS.  B.  FERRIN,  Prop. 


^  :^ 


building,  a  plain  granite  structure,  erected  in  i750-'54. 
Adjoining  the  church  is  the  first  burying-ground  established 
in  Boston.  In  it  are  buried  Isaac  Johnson,  "the  fathei-  n( 
Boston,"  Governor  Winthroj),  John  Cotton,  and  other  dis- 
tinguished men.  On  the  corner  of  Washington  and  School 
streets,  is  the  Old  Corner  Bookstore,  a  buildin<^  datiuLf 
from  1 7 12.  The  old  x\orth  Burying-ground,  on  the  brow 
of  Copp's  Hill,  was  the  second  established  in  the  city,  and 
is  still  sacredly  preserved.  Here  lies  three  fathers  of  the 
Puritan  Church,  Drs.  Increase,  (jjotton  and  Samuel  Mather- 

THE  OLD  CEMETERY  IN  THE  COMMON. 


In  that  corner  of  the  Common  bounded  by  Tremont  and 
Boylston  streets,  and  lying  directly  between  the  Masonic 
Temple  and  the  Public  Library,  is  an  old  burying  ground 
shut  off  from  the  Common  and  the  streets  by  an  iron  fence. 
It  was  formerly  known  as  the  South,  and  later  as  the  Cen- 
tral burying-ground.  It  was  opened  in  1756,  but  the  oldest 
stone  is  dated  1761.  The  best  known  name  ui)on  any  of 
the  ancient  stones  is  that  of  Monsieur  Julien.  the  mos' 
noted  restaurateur  of  the  city  a  century  past,  and  the  in- 
ventor of  the  famous  soup  that  still  bears  his  name.  This 
cemetery  is  the  least  interesting  of  the  old  burying  places 
of  Boston,  and  is  consecpiently  r^^ldom  noticed  by  the 
stranger. 

There  are  according  to  the  directory  nearly  two  hundred 
hotels  in  the  city.  With  that  fact  in  vitw  I  shall  mention 
first  the  Revere  House  and  United  States.  In  suggesting 
to  intending  visitors  to  Boston  the  name  of  the  •'  Old 
U  ated  States  Hotel"  the  proprietor  feels   justitied  in  rec- 


■ 


158 

ommending  the  house  for  just  what  it  is,  no  more,  no  less. 
I  am  at  home  when  in  the  United  States  Hotel,  Boston  ; 
it  pleases  n^ie,  and  I  am  positive  it  will  please  you.  The 
hotel  was  built  over  half  a  century  ago,  as  a  great  family 
hotel,  wherein  most  of  the  owners  and  their  families  resided- 
As  a  consequence,  it  was  arranged  more  for  safety,  comfort, 
and  convenience  than  the  more  modern  and  pretentious 
hotels. 

The  U.  S.  Hotel  covers  an  entire  square,  nearly  two  acres 
of  ground,  surrounding  large  open  spaces,  by  which  every 
room  in  the  house  is  open  to  the  sunlight  and  plenty  of 
fresh  air ;  and  there  are  no  guests'  rooms  above  the  third 
floor,  while  eight  separate  and  distinct  stairwa)S  reach  from 
the  upper  Hoor  to  the  street. 

These  items  of  sunlight,  and  rooms  below  the  clouds- 
with  plenty  of  direct  and  convenient  accesses  to  the  street, 
will  recommend  themselves  to  all  thinking  people,  and  will 
need  no  comment  by  us. 

Terms. — The  present  ])roprietor,  Mr.  Tilly  Haynes,  took 
possession  of  the  property  in  1880  for  a  long  term  of  years 
at  a  nominal  rental ;  and  it  has  been  the  aim  to  make  it  a 
comfortable  and  homelike  house,  regulathig  the  charges  ac- 
cording to  rooms  required,  from  $2.50  to  $3.50  per  day. 
thus  iiieeting  the  wants  of  the  most  economical  or  the  most 
sumptuous,  our  motto  being  excellence  without  extrava- 
gance. When  you  are  in  Boston  and  wish  to  visit  one  of 
the  most  popular  sea  side  resorts,  I  cheerfully  refer  you  to 
the  Masconavao  House,  Manchester  (by  the  sea),  Mass. 
This  delightful  spot  is  owned  by  Mrs.  J.  B.  Booth,  and  is 
under   the   management   of  my    dear   friend,   Mr.   George 


159 


took 


iorge 


HoUiday,  and  if  you  have  only  time  to  call,  take  the  train 
at  the  Eastern  Depot  almost  any  hour,  and  if  vou  only 
stay  as  long  as  he  will  make  it  pleasant  for  you,  it  will  be 
plenty  long  enough.     Let  me  call  your  attention  to 

The  Revere  House,  Boston. — This  large,  first-class  hotel 
was  opened  in  the  year  1847,  and  has  ranked  from  the 
start  as  one  of  the  best  public  houses  \v(?  have.  Being  but 
a  short  distance  from  the  Lowell,  Eastern,  Maine  and 
Fitchburg  depots  in  one  direction,  and  from  the  State  House 
and  business  centre  in  another,  it  is  conveniently  located 
for  the  traveUng  public. 

The  building  is  an  irregularly  shaped,  five  story  structure, 
containing  two  hundred  rooms,  and  one  of  the  most  clieer. 
ful  and  commodious  dining  rooms  we  have  ever  seen.  The 
hotel  surrounds  on  four  sides  a  pleasant  court  filled  with 
flowers  and  a  fountain  of  water,  and  one  steps  at  once  from 
the  busy  street  outside  into  the  repose  and  c[uietness  of  a 
country  seat. 

The  hotel  has  long  been  noted  for  its  substantial  and 
excellent  table  and  for  the  quiet  comfort  that  reigns  through- 
out. The  Revere  has  a  ])ermanent  range  of  customers. 
who  always  patronize  it  in  preference  to  any  other  Boston 
house ;  and  parties  who  have  enjoyed  its  i)rivileges  and 
made  the  acquaintance  of  its  i)roprietor.  Mr.  Charles  B. 
Ferrin,  invariably  come  again. 

For  our  business  men  from  the  interior  visiting  Boston, 
and  for  parties  going  to  and  returning  from  the  Northern 
Summer  resorts,  we  know  of  no  better  stopjjing  i)lace  than 
the  Revere. 


i 


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Cor.  Centre  and  Charles  Sts., 

BALTIMORE,  MD. 

A .    L  .    ]VI  E  L  L  E  N    ..^l:    SON, 

F'ROPRIETORS. 

THE  MODEL  HOTEL  OF  THE  CITY 

Is  kept  on  the  American  and  European  Plans. 

Its  cuisine  is  unsurpassed.  The  most  select  and 
varied  assortment  of 

IMPORTED  WINES  AND  CIGARS 

in  its  cellars  to  please  the  most  fastidious.  The  rooms  are 
large,  airy,  well  ventilated  and  superbly  furnished.  E\cn 
the  very  air  is  impregnated  with  affluence  and  luxury. 

\.  B. — Parties  desiring  any  information  relative  to  the 
St.  James  Hotel  will  receive  it  cheerfully  by  asking  Mr. 
Samuel  Gofjchaud. 


mg 


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are 
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In  King's  Handbook  of  Boston,  we  find  the  follov.-ing 
article,  containing  several  interesting  particulars  concerning 
this  hotel : 

"  The  Revere  House,  on  Bowdoin  Square,  is  a  large  and 
well  appointed  hotel  on  the  American  plan,  having  accom^ 
modations  for  250  guests,  and  charging  $3.00  to  $4.00  per 
day,  according  to  the  location  of  the  rooms.  It  was  built 
in  1847  by  a  company  of  prominent  gentlemen,  and  was 
named  after  the  Revolutionary  hero,  Paul  Revere.  P'or 
many  years  it  was  under  the  management  of  Paran  Stevens, 
who  was  also  lessee  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  in  New 
York,  and  the  Continental  Hotel  in  Philadelphia.  The 
Revere  House  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  and  home- 
like hotels  in  the  country  and  the  cuisine  is  equal  to  any 
hotel  in  New  England.  Many  public  banquets  are  given  at 
this  house.  Club  and  Class  dinners  are  made  a  specialty,  and 
the  house  has  the  reputation  of  serving  them  in  the 
most  elegant  manner.  There  are  large  reception  rooms, 
private  parlors  and  all  other  public  apartments  usually  found 
in  first-class  hotels.  Precautions  have  been  taken  to  guard 
against  fire,  and  elevators,  corridors  and  staircases  extend- 
ing through  the  house  render  it  easy  of  exit.  Bowdoin 
square,  on  which  the  house  fronts,  is  a  car  centre.  Among 
the  distinguished  people  who  have  stopped  here,  are  Presi- 
dent Grant,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  King  Kalakana.  the  Em- 
peror Dom  Pedro,  the  Cirand  Duke  Alexis,  Jenny  Lmd, 
Christine  Nilsson,  Adelina  Patti,  Parepa  Rosa  and  Theresa 
Titiens.  The  proprietor  is  Mr.  C.  B.  Ferrin.  who  for  many 
years  was  connected  with  the  Parker  House  of  Boston,  and 
for  ten  years  was  proprietor  of  the  Westminster  Hotel  of 
New  York." 


l62 


One  of  the  best  traveling  companions  on  a  pleasure  trip 
is  a  reliable  Railway  Guide,  and  we  advise  the  tourist  to 
get  the  best,  as  a  cheap  guide  is  like  a  cheap  watch,  never 
on  time. 

As  we  hold  that  this  little  volume  is  not  thrown  away, 
but  taken  home  for  future  reference,  a  little  advice  of  how 
to  start  upon  a  trip,  &:c.,  would  not  come  amiss.     We  say 

ist.  Select  your  route.  2d,  Buy  your  tickets  and  secure 
your  parlor  car  seats.  3d,  Show  your  tickets  to  the  baggage 
master  and  have  your  baggage  checked.  4th,  Go  to  the 
news  stand  and  ask  for  The  "  Phat  Boys"  Delineations  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  or  the  Pathfinder's  Railway  Guide, 
as  it  is  the  oldest  railway  guide  published,  and  the  July 
number  will  contain  the  best  railroad  map  ever  published. 
It  is  the  only  recognized  mouth  piece  of  the  Passenger 
Agents  Association  ;  one  can  be  assured  of  its  reliability. 
The  Phat  Boy  requests  his  friends  to  send  to  them  next 
spring  for  a  copy  of  their  summer  tours  to  select  your  vaca- 
tion trip.  Address  Pathfinder,  Boston,  Mass.  5th,  Don't 
bother  the  conductor  by  asking  questions,  as  he  has  all  he 
can  do  to  attend  to  his  train,  and  the  Pathfinder's  oflicial 
tables  and  valuable  maps  tells  the  whole  story. 

I  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  correctly 
the  route  o\er  which  you  have  passed,  dear  reader.  There 
are.  doubtless,  some  whose  knowledge  of  particular  points 
is  greater  tlian  my  own  ;  to  those  I  say  most  cheerfully,  note 
them  down,  and  forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Roclits- 
ter,  \.  v..  and.  I  assure  you.  they  shall  have  a  position  in 
the  iiext  edition  of  thir^  work,  as  my  object  and  aim  is  to 
make  this  a  i)erfect  guide  for  any  })erson  desirous  of  making 
this  the  finest  trip  on  the  continent. 


of 


163 

After  returning  home  and  resuming  the  cares  and  posi- 
tion which  you  left  behind  for  this  trip,  may  you  be  filled 
with  animation,  life  and  health  acquired  by  your  excursion 
trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  etc.,  ard  the  pleasant  memor- 
ies of  scenes  witnessed,   wonders  ^•isited,  as  well  as  the 
beauties  of  nature  revealed,  you  will  have  double  tlie  vigor 
to  prosecute  the  duties  devolving  upon  ,vou,  with  onlv  spare 
time  on  hand  to  speak  to  your  acquaintances  an<!   frien.ls 
recommending  them  to  make  tlie  same  trii>,  not  forgetting 
to  mention  The  -  Phat  Boy's"  Historical  Delineations  as  a 
guide  for  hotel,  and  all  points  of  interest  connects  «.;th 
the  trip.     I  will  now   lift   my  hat  to  the  tourist  and  others 
who  have  made  the  trip,  and   bi,l  them  a  tempo.arv  tare- 
well      Hoping  to  see,  ne.xt   vacation,  yourself  and  fnen.ls 
i  only  say  ' 


he 


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RJdmm. 


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164 


(D.  S.  IjMB/lLL  4  i 

ROCHESTER,  N.  Y. 
/iDSolufcly  •  jl^upc  •  fe^iqarcffcs. 


20v0    MILLIONS     SOLD    DURING     THE    YEAR     1883. 


4K^2fI3^'^>  4W^lKl-   -^i^t-lS^D^   4O'l:0^   4#ei^p^ 
THE     POPULAR     SMOKING    TOBACCOS. 

^PEERLESS  FIHE-CUT.3fe^ 

SOLI)    BV   ALL   DEALERS. 


^« 


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For  Comfort,  Sifstj  and  Cosmieacs  cbooss  ii  Trmling,  East  or  West. 


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